This may sound really stupid (probably because it is), but I did the rewire from scratch because I just hate to find wire in premade harnesses. AXs comment about laying it all out first is a good one.

I drew my diagrams FIRST then rewired. And I ran one wire at a time, then bundled them into a harness with the 1/8 nylon ties, then trimmed to clean lengths at the break points. I had my laptop out in the garage and actually modified the drawing on the spot if I had to change or add anything.

Having that "road map" is priceless because if you do get a short (like my hood pinched my horn wire) you will know exactly what wire and what color it is. (plus with separate fuses for each item, you know what is shorted and what wire it's on already - no more tracing). I refer to mine more than any of my other documents. As I mentioned mine is in Power Point so if you want a copy, Ill send it to you to play with. You can recolor the lines to match what you install plus add and take "stuff" off. Most of the work is already done. Custome made just for your truck - especially if you add something.

One other thing. I found a really super industrial hardware store here in San Diego called Marshalls. The quality of the connectors is FAR superior to what you could get at Home Depot or Napa, and much less expensive. Also the heat shrink came in 3 foot lengths for what a small package would cost elsewhere.

Last note: you can buy the crimp connectors with no plastic already. Finding a good source will save you lots of frustration and cost.

Have fun,

Julie

 

Thanks Julie,
All good suggestions. Home Depots electrical stuff is not the quality I would chose to use. I have a roll of heat shrink and a heat gun.
I would like to find some nice bullet connectors, will check out your source.

 

I like Waytek Wire Welcome to Waytek Wire for commercial quality electrical components in bulk. Their prices are super inexpensive, but because of that some items you may need to buy many more than you need to make their minimum, but you can always share them with friends. For example, uninsulated bullet connectors are .03xx -.05xx ea. depending on size.

 

I know that you can get the crimp connectors without the insulation, you can also get them with heat shrink insulation. I just happened to have a huge assortment of the standard insulated crimp on style on hand so I didn't have to rush out and but them.

Waytek Wire is a great source, and I have used them in the past. To me, the premade harnesses just make sense. The wires are labeled every 6 inches along their entire lengths, the color codes are industry standard (at least it seemed like it to me), easily adaptable to as few or as many circuits as you may have, the majority of the tedious work is already done. Here is a link to a great write up of installing a wiring harness in an already complete truck;
1954 Chevy Pickup | Rewire Project - Page 1
Don't let the fact that this is a write up by a chevy guy in a chevy truck scare you away, there is good information there that is applicable.

Wiring can be alot of fun and very rewarding, just stay away from Scotch-loks, romex, and electrical nuts..........LOL

Bobby

 

Yeah you think that's funny huh Bobby? (it is)

Unfortunately it's too true!!!!!!

When I pulled (litteraly) my old wires out, there were over 200 splices and about 30 feet of 14 ga solid core black wire Stripped from romex. Only about 30 wire nuts though.

The results of the new wiring (everything working right and no more electrical problems again ever) was well worth the time and expense (considering the ratio of improvement for the cost compaired to overall money invested in the whole truck). After spending $1700 on headers and $500 on motor mounts, $250 for wire and connectors was nothing for the results achieved.

ROMEX! UnBELIEvable!

J!

 

Romex and wire nuts !

Yikes ! Sounds like a real interesting truck.....

 

All Very good points Folks!..

I always enjoy and " TRY " to follow these electrical threads because they're always interesting, and as previously stated..rewarding when the fix is found...I just wish they all came with a schematic.... LoL! Fact is I try to learn something along the way, and this one hasn't let me down ..
Here are a couple of more things to consider,
To me my most basic tool in any electrical " situation " is my trusty Fluke meter or V.O.M as they're sometimes called... ( I picked mine up cheap, from a guy getting out of the Auto business)
Learning how to use it was the fun part, but having a quality , reliable tool to 're-inforce" my finds helped me.And saves me lot's of time...
Several companies offer those small hand held butane soldering Irons Axracer mentioned...small, easy to handle,adjustable heat range settings and precise soldering, I've had a couple over the past , some are better than others...check them all out.
A schematic of your plan of attack, or desired method for routing and wiring like Julie said, is the perfered method...any changes you make along the way can be ammended to your schematic...also any splices, should you need them, should be noted and marked and noted on the schematic, as well as all grounds and locations of ground points...sometimes a digital picture of these locations helps" someone-else" down the road who is trying to fiqure out a P.O problem that results from custom installation.With your new schematic, color coded wiring and layout things start to look easier to fix,diagnois...which is going to happen sooner or later LoL! Keep this Log/Schematic 'With the vehicle" , in the glove-box or maybe in a zip-lock bag behind the seat.Someone will "thank-you !"later...
If your suspending your harness under the dash, you may consider adding some type of mounting tab/ring/to support the harness so that it is not just hanging and getting in the way of occupants feet,wiper linkage,brake-pedal,fresh air vent linkage etc,etc..I know this can be a tricky thing to do at times,but I also have seen alot of problems caused by crushed wires, and neatness pays off "BIGTIME" here.
Route your new harness "loosely" at first,see how it fits..,does it meet your plan? then straighten and tighten things up as you begin to secure it in it's more permanent position, some cushion in the tight bend areas, sharpe corners to prevent chaffing Most of all, Have fun with it, take your time and give the job the time it needs to be done to your satisfaction.. Good Luck!

 

i went with the ron francis kit. it's a little high in price but they also had other stuff i wanted to use also. sure was simple to do.

 

Yep...and a grease gun hose for a brake line! 95% of hte restoration on this truck has been undoing the damage the PO did to it.

I'm getting there....just one more thing - front end.


HEY MERTZ Her ya go!!!! I gotta bunch of 'em I made up! Look in my gallery for some.



I printed all my electrical diagrams like the one above and those of the busses (fuse blocks) out on 4x6 photo paper then went up to Kinko's and laminated/hole punched them. They are all now in th ebackof my "Salesmans Handbook" in the "Dispatch (glove) Compartment"

Best,
Julie

 

-One thing that the wiring diagrams and the premade harnesses tend to forget to mention is bonding (grounding) all the major parts of the truck: engine, cab and bed to the chassis. Use a flat braided lead coated copper grounding strap available in a number of lengths from any decent auto parts store. Bolt one end to the component to a paint free metal part and the other end to the frame with some slack in between to allow movement. I like to use a star or toothed washer between the strap and the part or frame so the teeth bite into the metal when tightened resulting in a better connection.
Many electrical gremlins can be traced to a poorly grounded engine or body.

 

Although I'm not near this stage right now...I was wondering IF you wouldn't mind sending me a copy of your electrical diagrams?

It never hurts to get a head start on these things while gettin' ready
to tear down a chassis to install an IFS & a rear 4-link...

Thanks...Brian...

 

Hi Brian,

Sure I'd be happy to send those to you. It's good to look a little early - that way you can lay out a good plan.

If you will send me a PM with your real e-mail address, I have them to you tonight.

Best,
Julie