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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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78 and 73 comparison

So I recently purchased a 78 ford 100 custom that didn't run for $100. $3 fuel filter later I had a running truck. I've done some work like plugs, wires, radiator cap, coil, working turnsignals and other random stuff. Its running pretty well although it does stall from time to time when starting off from a stop ... kinda strange.

There are some things that I'd like to do to it namely fixing up the body which I've come to find out has quite a lot of bondo ... eek. I found a 73 f250 close by for $350 which I'm sure could be negotiated down

I'm looking at possibly using the body from the 73 as its in much better condition. I'm curious how fesible this will be. I also want a few other parts off it such as the dash pieces.

My other option is a 78 f250 that doesn't run that is also near by me. The body is in pretty bad shape but there are things on that guy that I'd like to piece out, including the carb and some other little random things.


Hey maybe I'll just restore the 73 instead of the 78 and use it for parts ... hmmm idea!

I'd love to hear your guys' opinions!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 03:30 AM
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Would it be easier to put the motor from the 78 into the 73? Or just drive the 73?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 03:33 AM
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1973/79 Styleside Pickups.

All the sheetmetal is the same except the left quarter (bedside) panel.

1973/76's with auxillary fuel tanks have exposed gas cap(s).

1977/79's have the gas cap(s) behind fuel doors.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 08:41 AM
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The 73 has a 390 vs the 78's 302. I would probably leave the 390 although I don't know. I may take the carb from the 78 and put it in the 73, the guy was saying that the car is hard to start but runs well once it is.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:06 AM
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It really depends on what you want to use the truck for. Personaly I would go with the 73 F250 if it seems to run as well as the 78 F100. It gives you more hauling capacity and a stronger motor, plus where I live you would not have emissions testing. Since you have less than $200 into the 78 you should be able to get at least that out of it and not have to deal with all the body work. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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I never thought about that Jodell. The truck will be used for hauling and getting around in the winter. I drive my car during the rest of the year. Maybe I will sell the 78 off or I'll strip it down and give it to the junk yard. It has newer tires on it and quite a few little things I'd like to keep, especially for backup parts.

I contacted the guy yesterday to see if its still for sale so lets hope.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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If you do junk the 78 you should still be able to get you money back out of it. My junk yard is paying $80 a ton currently. It was about $200 a ton just a few months ago though. Seems like I always find stuff like that out after it has happend.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:06 AM
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What do you guys think, do you think $350 is too much to pay for a 73 that may have some serious problems? Here's the description.

4-speed granny, Dana axle, 390 V-8, showing ~70k miles
Very little rust- left rocker has a little- Arizona body
Runs, but starts hard, needs an exhaust gasket on tailpipe and perhaps carb work.
Includes 3 OEM split rims with 2 good tires.
New: battery, rear tires, brake lines, gas line
Super-duty receiver hitch, steelstream camper shell, stock rack. White spoke rims.
Headliner is missing, small wrinkles in left rear quarter. Tailgate does not match in color, but is in good shape. Front tires bald. OEM upholstery rough.
Clean title, stored for about the last 10 years.

Now I don't care about the rims and tires so much because I'm just going to put the tires from my 78 on it, but it sounds like there could be some serious issues with the engine not starting well. Couldn't this be due to a loss in compression in the engine? He says It could be carb and I wouldn't disagree. He says he will put a little gas in the carb to help it start. Granted I used some ether to start mine to diagnose a fuel filter problem. He claims that you may have to have a battery charger connected in order to crank it long enough to start it .... WHAT!?

It honestly sounds like a problem with not getting gas to me but maybe some more seasoned have an opinion. Possibly a fuel filter or maybe fuel pump problem?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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If the 78 is an f100 and 73 is an f250 the wheels won't fit because 5 lug vs. 8 lug. But I personally would fix up the f250 and have a stronger truck. I'm sure there are still alot of parts from the 78 you could use.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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Damn wheels lol.

I talked to the guy and I'm going to look at the truck this week. Its not pricey, 350 isn't that big of a deal.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Casey_78
What do you guys think, do you think $350 is too much to pay for a 73 that may have some serious problems? Here's the description.

4-speed granny, Dana axle, 390 V-8, showing ~70k miles
Is it a 390?

Mebbe...mebbe not, cuz on sale day, 360 engines magically become 390's.

The 4th digit of the VIN is the engine code. 1973: H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.

Is it only 70,000 miles?

Mebbe, mebbe not, cuz the odometers on trucks of this vintage only read to 99,999.9, then return to ZERO.

So it could be 70K, 170K, 270K, or?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 11:04 AM
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Hard starting could definitely be due to a carb in need of a rebuild. A weak battery could also be making this worse. If it runs well once warm I would take the opportunity to do a compression test, vacuum test, and check out the plugs. If it is only a carb rebuild and battery those are fairly cheap, but then why isn't the current owner doing that?

As far as the exhaust gasket on the tailpipe- I would check to make sure the manifold is not cracked. Had this on a truck I bought and a few broken bolts in the head later I was not happy, not to mention the cost of a new manifold or headers and a complete exhaust.

I'd also check out the vin and rear end numbers. Is it a light duty F250 or heavy duty F250 --main difference being stronger braking system, suspension, and maybe cooling system. Is the rear end limited slip and/or a desirable ratio? How is the interior and what options does it have? I would think all of this helps make up the value of the truck, plus how many in similar condition are available around you.

But on the plus side for $350 with a good body you almost can't loose if you have the time and space to get it working right. Even if you decide not to keep it you should be able to part it for more than you paid. I just picked up a 76 F250 supercab camper special for $375 because I wanted the doors. I sold the running 460 for $200 and still have two great fenders, a near perfect grill and front bumper, hood, a C6 to rebuild for my truck, a super cooling radiator with a perfect shroud, and a Dana 60 with limited slip. With the $150 to $200 I should get for scrapping the frame, cab, and bed I will come out ahead and get the doors for free.

Good luck,
Jeff
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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Just got off the phone with the guy.

Believes its 170k, if not more.
He's gonna get me the VIN tonight, only reason he said it was 390 as that's what he was told when he got it.

Says that he doesn't know if its light or heavy duty but he has hauled 2 tons in it supposedly without issue

He did a compression test and rebuilt the carb some time ago, he says the the compression test seemed fine but he couldn't tell me the exact numbers. He says that once the engine is warm it starts up just fine, but when its cold he has the starting problem.

I am curious about 2 things.

1: How fesible is it to put the 302 into the f250 IF that is needed. Not planning on it atm.

2: More importantly to me, can the 73 f250 be converted from the non power steering, to using the power steering from the 78 f100 ?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey_78
Says that he doesn't know if its light or heavy duty but he has hauled 2 tons in it supposedly without issue

How fesible is it to put the 302 into the f250 IF that is needed. Not planning on it atm.
Officially, Ford never offered a light duty F250.

The lowest GVW offered on F250's in the 1970's was 6200 lbs.

Look on the Warranty Plate's 3rd line for the GVW.

It could be 6200, or it could be: 6900, 7500, or 8100 lbs., which were the 4 GVW's offered.

Installing a 302 in an F250, will be an exercise in futility, especially if done to increase MPG.

The 302 doesn't have the torque to motivate an F250, so you'll be standing on the gas pedal to get it to move from a dead stop...and passing won't be any bed of roses, either.

When these trucks were designed, a gallon of regular was roughly 20 cents a gallon nationwide, and these trucks have the aerodynamics of a brick.

You can spend a grand, you can spend 5 grand, the results will be the same.

Your highway gas mileage might increase by 1-2 MPG, the city mileage will remain the same, that is unless...

...You install a 302, then the city MPG will be worse.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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$350 is a steal already IMO. :)
If you don't want it... PM me! ;)

Beside what Bill the ND said... the 302 and 360/390FE ain't easily
interchangeable for a few reasons anyway. :/

Were talking about a Fords here. ;)

Alvin in Pima county AZ
 
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