no spark or fuel problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
no spark or fuel problem
i need help before i go crazy.. i drove my truck home and it ran perfectly. i flushed the cooling system and in process some of the engine compartment got wet. i went to start tuck and it wouldnt start, i checked for spark there was none, i replaced the iginiton moduale and still no spark, then i checked also to see if i was getting fuel by pressing the valve in on the fuel rail and there was nadda. so its a no fuel no spark issue now. i checked both the fuel pump and eec relays and they check out and im getting power going to both the eec and pump. what would effect both of these that i have not checked already??? please someone help me before i go nuts.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
its an 89 f250 with 351. i appreciate any and all help. i got a trouble code out of it to. it was 96 which says "fuel pump seconary circuit failure<em dash> battery to pcm" i guess ill check to see if the pcm is getting juice some how but i know the relay is functioning a giving power. maybe from there to the pcm theres a fusable link or somthing. what do you think?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I recently had an intermittent no start on an 89 bronco2. The eec power relay was only sending 5 volts to the injectors fuel pump and coil IIRC. POwer comes from the eec relay to the fuel pump relay then to the fuel pump. Not sure how much this applies to your truck, but I believe they are the same or simmilar
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 40
From: Concord, NC
The secondary fuel pump code means the computer is commanding the fuel pump relay to turn on, but the computer does not sense any voltage on the switched (fuel pump) side of the relay. I have seen this indicate a failed fuel pump, but having sprayed under-hood with water, I would check/replace the fuel pump relay first. You can energize the relay manually by jumpering the fuel pump wire to the signal return wire in the diagnostic connector (with the key in the "run" position). Another thing to check about the no-spark is the distributor. Pop the cap and check for any signs of water and give it a shot of WD40 to displace any water that might have gotten in there. Here is a diagram of the diagnostic connector:
