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The folks asked if it's all right to mix 1 qt. 5W-30 with 1/2 qt. SAE-30 for their riding mower. It's a little Briggs 4-stroke. Is there anything wrong with doing that? Thanks guys and gals.
It won't hurt anything. People get so worried about things like this. It's a lawnmower for crying out loud. I put whatever oil I have handy in my mower. Mine is a 16horse Briggs in a Bolens mower. I have had it since 1985. The engine just needs to be lubricated and it will be ok.jd
Originally Posted by pfogle
What's the point? If you want a little thinner oil just run 10w30. The valve guides won't last quite as long, but it's not going to void a warranty.
And how will the valve guides be affected? It's still 30 weight when the engine is hot.jd
It won't hurt anything. People get so worried about things like this. It's a lawnmower for crying out loud. I put whatever oil I have handy in my mower. Mine is a 16horse Briggs in a Bolens mower. I have had it since 1985. The engine just needs to be lubricated and it will be ok.
No matter if its a 3 hp lawnmower engine or a 3,000 hp topfuel dragster V8, an engine is an engine.
The fact is that different grades of oil can have bad reactions to each and cause sludge. Sludge is something you never want in an engine. If mixing grades of oil together was OK, it wouldnt say right in the owner's manual to never mix grades of oil. Its as simple as that.
> mix 1 qt. 5W-30 with 1/2 qt. SAE-30 for their riding mower
No, the newer 4 stroke motors have tighter clearances and require the lighter oil with the anti-wear additives. These are not like the cheap 2/4 stroke B&S motors on $300 lawn motors. The 16 HP stuff is a different animal and I would not do it.
The recommended oil for that engine is a NON-DETERGENT SAE 30 weight. What happens is the valve guide seals start leak and they get some dirt built up them re-sealing them. IF you use the detergent oil (10w30 API oil is detergent oil) it will know the gunk out of the guides and seals causing it to burn oil. It can also make the valves loose in the guides and then oil seeps past or it bends a valve.
> The 16 HP stuff is a different animal and I would not do it.
As I stated above, my 16 hp B&S is over 20 years old. I use whatever oil is handy. I change it every summer. It does not use oil. It still runs fine. I changed spark plugs at 18 years. The engine was running fine, I just figured I would change them anyway.
The valve guides and seals are in good shape. No smoking, oil burning, etc.
Oil is not some magic potion that if you mix it with another magic potion bad things will happen. No voo doo here.
All expert predictions aside just keep it lubricated, and you will be fine.jd
> As I stated above, my 16 hp B&S is over 20 years old.
I agree, I dump whatever on hand into an old one including used full syn from my car. You probably did not get the clarifier about my sentence "No, the -----> newer <----- 4 stroke motors".
Im glad you arent doing the maintainance on any of my engines...
Me too. You would be one of the pain in the *** customers I hate to see drive in the door. We are talking about a lawn mower here, not a daily driver. There is considerable difference.jd
In addition to all the oil hokus-pokus that goes around, an engine manufacturer must recommend the grade/weight oil used when that engine was EPA certified.
The newer engines are now under EPA regs and tighter ones than ever before. If they had to use olice oil to pass the emissions test, then that is what the manufacturer would have to specify in the manual and the warranty.
I use SAE 30 detergent in everything including snow blower...and I start it using the pull cord every now and then just to make sure it is up to snuff...well, maybe not below zero , but I could.
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