charging problem
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New User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: upstate NY
charging problem
I have a 96 F350 with a 460. The charging system is not working,new alt. When you pull the wire on the relay off while truck is running RPMs pickup. Also if you read voltage off the battery wire on the back of alt. you get 36-40 volts at idle but hook to battery and you get just what the battery voltage is. Did find that if I unhook the netual switch wires don't get the RPM change. Forgot to say that with everything hooked the way it's should be you get 5 volts at the starter relay wire that comes from the key. Anyone run into this before?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
Check out the fuseable link on the yel/wht wire, I believe its the sensing wire for the alt or rather the voltage regular to charge the battery.
Check the fuseable link in the blk-org wire at the same time.
They corrode inside and loose connection, may not look bad in anyway.Test them for continuity.
Check the fuseable link in the blk-org wire at the same time.
They corrode inside and loose connection, may not look bad in anyway.Test them for continuity.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
Is that what you meant, the wire you where referring to when you stated <i>When you pull the wire on the relay off while truck is running RPMs pickup.</i> and <i>Forgot to say that with everything hooked the way it's should be you get 5 volts at the starter relay wire that comes from the key. Anyone run into this before?</i>?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
I'd have to suggest checking out the condition/adjustment of the ignition switch after looking the wiring diagram over and going on what you've said.
Or just try turning the key back slightly once its running to be sure the key is fully centered in the "run" position, see if that 5v present on the little start wire disappears and the battery charges as it should.
It may not be returning to run by itself, hanging in between start and run.
Or just try turning the key back slightly once its running to be sure the key is fully centered in the "run" position, see if that 5v present on the little start wire disappears and the battery charges as it should.
It may not be returning to run by itself, hanging in between start and run.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Monroe City, IN
When I had my gauge cluster out on my 95 my alt quit I thought, it was weak so I replaced still no charging, the guy at the parts counter suggested the pigtail that plugs into the alt, I figured if they carry that part there must have been a problem, still nothing it ended up being a bad connection on the printed circuit on back of the gauge cluster.
Did this problem just happen out of nowhere or have you worked on something else recently
Did this problem just happen out of nowhere or have you worked on something else recently
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New User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: upstate NY
problem just started happening.Unhooked ing. switch and hot wired still got 5 volts. Only when netural switch is unhooked do I not get 5volts. Replaced switch and still same old problem.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
I'd look into them neutral safety switch wires, look for problem in the wire/s leading to it.
See if you have wires chaffed/pinched together or something, the "red-Lt blue" with another hot wire someplace along its run.
Trying to figure out if you have two problems, a short in the start circuit giving you 5v reading at the relay and a charging system problem. Or if they are both one in the same. So far I don't really see a link between them.
Manual trans? (Auto trans uses a jumper at the neutral safety switch switch)
See if you have wires chaffed/pinched together or something, the "red-Lt blue" with another hot wire someplace along its run.
Trying to figure out if you have two problems, a short in the start circuit giving you 5v reading at the relay and a charging system problem. Or if they are both one in the same. So far I don't really see a link between them.
Manual trans? (Auto trans uses a jumper at the neutral safety switch switch)
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: upstate NY
I have a auto trans and do think you are on the right track,now that I done some thinking about what you have said. If I adjust the net. switch while truck running I can loose the 5 volts,but truck will not start ,like it's in gear till I move switch again. Now just one more question should I get better then 30 volts off the Bt term. on back of alt. when wire is not hooded to fender mount relay? Everyone I've talked to tell me it can't be done checked and rechecked and it's 30 volts costed me a bulb in my test lite to make sure meter was right. Poped the test lite in less then a second.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
I have a auto trans and do think you are on the right track,now that I done some thinking about what you have said. If I adjust the net. switch while truck running I can loose the 5 volts,but truck will not start ,like it's in gear till I move switch again. Now just one more question should I get better then 30 volts off the Bt term. on back of alt. when wire is not hooded to fender mount relay? Everyone I've talked to tell me it can't be done checked and rechecked and it's 30 volts costed me a bulb in my test lite to make sure meter was right. Poped the test lite in less then a second.
Yea that sounds about right, would be someplace around 30-38v at the alternator, should be "AC" not "DC" though?
I tested one a couple months ago, wouldn't charge the battery. IIRC I got like 35, maybe even 38v AC when I tested it at the alt itself, nothing at the battery.
Checked the yellow wire for continuity and sure enough had nothing. Found the fuseable link in that line and it was all corroded at one of the crimped ends, hanging on by a thread, replaced it and all was well......with that one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
I was testing right at the alt, thinking about it I guess I probably don't remember it right, I know it had more then the 13-14 odd volts the battery would be getting there. 25-28V AC? at the alternator, heck I'd have to check again now.
If you have voltage at the alt and the wires/connections are good to the battery, (you bypassed the fuse links and so on) you gotta have juice at the battery.
Does your battery have a dead short in it?