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Right now I have a normal over the rail tool box and I love it. Problem comes with my stacks. This toolbox is deeper than a lot - 12" down from the rail. Since it has to be slid back to give clearance for the stacks, and since it's deeper - it hits the wheel humps. So all the way against the humps I can't get the lid open past about 45 degree angle.
so here are my choices :
1-cut a traingular type piece off the corners and weld a plate on - then paint that area
2 - get a new over the rail toolbox (I like Trail Boss) that's not as deep
3 - get a chest style that would be the width between the wheel wells (48") and could go back close to the exhaust Y pipe, but would be below the bed level. (this kind) TRAILBOSS CHEST BOXES
What's y'all's opinion - both for function and how the truck would look without a toolbox visible.
My first choice would be to remove the stacks. Nothing is going look as clean as a chest box between the pipes. UWS should have chest boxes down to 48" and boxes you can use down to 30".
My first choice would be to remove the stacks. Nothing is going look as clean as a chest box between the pipes. UWS should have chest boxes down to 48" and boxes you can use down to 30".
UWS is an awesome company. I would definetly buy their product. I have their chrome nerf bars on my wife's Yukon. The pad for the driver is coming off. I called UWS this morning. The only thing she asked for was my name and address. She said she was sending me a new pad and clips right away. My next toolbox or step bars will be from them.
have you thought about maybe getting one like you mentioned, that would fit in between the stacks, and perhaps mount it to the front side of the bed. up in between the stacks and above the y-pipe?
It looks like they sell Delta and weathergard. Both are good boxes, but in Florida we have two box makers, UWS and Better built, and no one here will pay more $300 for an aluminum box. When I was selling them, we'd get about $240 for a UWS or TrailFx (white box better built), and then $40 extra per option (deep, wide, black). All of the out of state manufactures were going to start at $400 and work up quickly.
i would just notch your box.pull it away from the stacks so the lid does'nt hit the stacks then bolt a piece of angle iron to the front of the box and fill that space(from the front of the box to the back window and around the stacks) will black diamond plate.
1. your tool box can never be too big.
2. it will hide the ugly y-pipe.
IMHO, I would trade the tool box you have and get one that fits flush to rails. Mine is actually 21" high, 4' wide, 2' deep. When I had it mounted I kept it up on 2 x 4's so I could haul 8' steel inside the bed, and 10 ' over the tail gate. That worked pretty good. Then, just today, in PA, I bot some furniture and needed to build an upper deck as I have three pieces of furniture, all made from cherry, and absolutely beautiful.
I have an ARE cap, so all my dimensions are at maximum and I hope all fits. I'll know later today.
But my point for your tool box is you have such a nice truck, your tool box takes away from the stacks. Probaby in your mind, set priorities what you want to show out the back. I would show the pipes and the truck. Flush mount the tool box and you got a beauty.