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has anyone rebuilt the vent wings on their SLICK? i have two sets and both are loose at the base. can the glass be removed and these bad boys fixed cheaply? i have been working on this truck for almost a year. it spent 7 months in the paint shop with NOTHING done, brought it home this past weekend. gunna do it myself.
Had to recondition both vent wings, replaced the hinges, pivot arm, and removed the glass on one of the vents. Suggest 1st try tightening the nut on the pivot arm and see if it corrects the problem. Found removing the glass can be time consuming, it was trial and error on my part, started with a piece of wood 1/4" square stock, tapered toward the end and started at one end of the vent window and worked it out of the channel. Can't be in a hurry, requires patience and some tapping with small rubber hammer as the glass is forced out of the channel. Suggest check with local auto glass shop and see what they would charge, if $20 or less I would have them do it. Setting the window using setting tape is easy. There is a tool used to separate the glass from the channel it basically clamps onto the glass and by applying pressure an arm forces the channel off. With any luck, perhaps another member has a better suggestion.
what did you do to "recondition" the frames/ how did you do the hinges? if you have time, please give me a blow by blow. it's gunna be a pretty truck when finished. if you look at my gallery it's the "work in progress" truck. soon to be viper red on the bottom and diamond black on the upper section. i'm also in te process of building a 390 with tri power for the rotating part, hooked to a C6 fro a donor truck.
Yu have couple of great looking trucks, I like them.
As a backyard mechanic trial and error as I went along. That being said, removed the rivets holding the hinges either by drilling them out, started with a small drill and worked up in size, making sure not enlarge the hole in the frame. Another method was by using a 4" grinder and removed the 'mushroomed' side of the rivet with a grinding wheel and then tapping the rivet out with small punch, again being very patient and removing least amount of material as possible it's a tight area. Don't necessarily need to take the mushroom down to frame. Usually went to this method if the rivet spun on me, can't caution enough, does not take much for the grinding wheel to remove substantial amount of material if not carefull. Should be able to find rivets at the local hardware, or auto supply and whether the rivets are stainless, or steel depends if intend to paint the frame.
When it comes to installing the hinge, it's a matter 'mushrooming' the end of the rivet shank while applying pressure on the rivet head. I have a set of punches in various sizes, I started with a smaller punch to set the rivet then larger for the final set. Also have a mini clamp and purchased a variety of square alum stock in 3"-4" lengths and various sizes. 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", etc., already cut in disired lengths and came in the various sizes, object is to secure head of the rivet and mushroom the rivet shank. Seem to recall the mini clamp and square stock came in handy if the punch did not seat the rivet properly.
Posting a link to 'Restoration Specialties' in event unable to find the rivets. If you have not replace the felt piece that fits in the division bar the kit usually includes the rivets but suggest purchasing some additional, it took me a few attempts to get it. Restoration Specialties also carry some of the fasteners like tube nuts for securing the emblems, U and J nuts for securing sheet metal, cage nuts; as well as, fender nuts and bolts. Many of the items can be purchase in a good hardware or automotive shop.
Anyhow, as a fly by the seat of the pants, do it myself back yard mechanic, posting with somewhat of a disclaimer, try what works best and with any luck other members will post additional suggestions that worked for them, just remember to be patient and take time. Also, this process also applies the the pivot arm with the nut and spring, mine were extremely rusty and they had to be replaced.
very nice looking trucks...esp the black one...any plans for it ???
As for the vent frames...many times up here in the northwest these pivots themself rot away...as is the case for the one on my truck now...that or the frames rot away at the low part of the curved area....I have some decent frames in need of pivots and also have extra glass if theres any on the hunt for them...
If anyone know there to be someplace thats repopping the lower pivots Im all ears...I got plenty of frames to use for guinea pigs...
the black truck was a "one" owner up until this past May when i bought it. i have the original title from the the state showing where the original owner financed 1895.00 for three years. of course, in 1966 2000.00 was a good years wage here in the "furniture" capital. the paint is original, always kept under cover such as a shed or lean to off the barn. the floor mats are original rubber. the owner claimed they were never exposed to foot traffic, always covered with the cheap rubber mats. original 352 never rebuilt, he said he had to put a water pump on it about 3 months before i bought it. it could be bought but it will take a BUNCH of BUCKS. not sure what i'm going to do with it yet, my wife allowed me to buy this one to go with the other i'm building for fun. i have original power steering and power brakes for it but not sure if it will hurt the value to put on. any suggestions. i am going to put 8" wheels on this machine with bands and centers though.