RABS bleed procedure
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RABS bleed procedure
Already searched, didn't find much but maybe I am just tired. I want to replace the fluid in the brake system on my 94 F250 however I am unsure what to do (if anything) to bleed the abs valve body. It does not have air in it now, nor do I expect it to when I get done, but let's say I did need to bleed it. What is the procedure for doing that?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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New User
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Hmm, so I take it I should bleed as normal, right and left rear, RABS block, then right and left front.
The reason I asked is when I was working as a mechanic, on some vehicles if air entered the system the valves in the modulator had to be in a certain position before bleeding to ensure all the air was purged. The procedure to drive the valves to the correct position is different for each model...some need a scan tool, others are easier, most don't need anything done at all. I just wasn't sure about this particular system. I'll just bleed as normal although I don't expect to get any air in there unless I replace the MC which I think I may end up doing if bleeding doesn't correct my mushy pedal problem. Oh and I read the tech article about adjusting the brake booster pushrod so that it actuates the master cylinder sooner, I will try that too.
Thanks!
The reason I asked is when I was working as a mechanic, on some vehicles if air entered the system the valves in the modulator had to be in a certain position before bleeding to ensure all the air was purged. The procedure to drive the valves to the correct position is different for each model...some need a scan tool, others are easier, most don't need anything done at all. I just wasn't sure about this particular system. I'll just bleed as normal although I don't expect to get any air in there unless I replace the MC which I think I may end up doing if bleeding doesn't correct my mushy pedal problem. Oh and I read the tech article about adjusting the brake booster pushrod so that it actuates the master cylinder sooner, I will try that too.
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
It's not a GM product so you don't have to do anything special to it. Just bleed as normal. Now if it was a GM with their goofy abs system, I'd advise against trying to change the fluid. If you get an air pocket in the rear lines on one of those it's almost impossible to get it out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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It's not a GM product so you don't have to do anything special to it. Just bleed as normal. Now if it was a GM with their goofy abs system, I'd advise against trying to change the fluid. If you get an air pocket in the rear lines on one of those it's almost impossible to get it out.
