Not starting...HELP
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Not starting...HELP
OK, I put the key in, wait for the GP light/wait to start light to go out but it never does. It stays on while there is a rapid clicking sound coming from either the engine compartment or under the drivers side dash...I'm not sure. The block heater is plugged in and the light never goes out. Any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Any codes besides P0603? Usually the clicking only happens when you try to start, not with the key on. How long has it been since you've driven the truck? If it's clicking while you turn the key to the start position, then it's likely weak batteries.
The only time my WTS light has never gone out (coupled with a no start) was when I had a short to ground in the main wiring harness that runs over the drivers side valve cover (red tape striped on harness). Check to make sure there's no chaffing issues on that harness at the valve cover, or above and behind the square box in that harness. My wires had rubbed against a metal bracket behind the box creating my short. The easy way to test this would be to turn the key on and have someone watch the WTS light while you go wiggle those wires.
The only time my WTS light has never gone out (coupled with a no start) was when I had a short to ground in the main wiring harness that runs over the drivers side valve cover (red tape striped on harness). Check to make sure there's no chaffing issues on that harness at the valve cover, or above and behind the square box in that harness. My wires had rubbed against a metal bracket behind the box creating my short. The easy way to test this would be to turn the key on and have someone watch the WTS light while you go wiggle those wires.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Next find the wiring harness on the drivers side of the motor that looks like this.
The wires coming out of that square box with a bolt in it have been know to rub against the metal valve cover and cause a short. Grab the wiring harness with the red stripe shown above and wiggle it (pull it away from the valve cover). See if the wait to start light goes out like it's supposed to. Also check where the wired come out the back side of the square box and wiggle those wires around.
The wires are under the plastic hose that goes from the air filter to the turbo. The intake hose was removed for this picture to make it easier to see.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Technically, either battery, but I prefer the passenger side battery since it's closest to the starter.
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Ok, I just hooked up the cables using the drivers side battery. When I turned the key the clicking sound lasted about 1 sec then went away. Also the WTS light went out and my baby fired up just fine. At this point I did manage to read the codes. All that I got was P0500. I believe its vehicle speed sensor or something like that. Question. I am driving from Ohio to Kansas in the middle of the week. Should I have this replaced before I leave, or do you think it will be fine? The reason I am asking is cuz $ is kind of short and I already have to buy at least one new battery.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I think the VSS is only about $30, but if money's tight, you're just looking at a possible speedo failure (speeding tickets might be expensive).
You really should buy 2 new batteries. If you just replace one, the old one will drag the newer one down.
Isn't it nice when the first thing you try fixes it?
You really should buy 2 new batteries. If you just replace one, the old one will drag the newer one down.
Isn't it nice when the first thing you try fixes it?