It is time for me to change the fuel filter(s) on my 08. Can someone please answer the following?

-Where is the best place to order the filters?
-What are the part numbers?
-Can someone point me to a tutorial for how to perform this procedure?

Much Thanks!!

Dave.

 

This is where I order mine: Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

You can get the part numbers from the site.

 

Here, save yourself some money for shipping.....
Buy a case of oil and fuel filters at the same time.
Or, just buy a couple, either way, it's the least expensive site I know of and is widely used by the members here.
Bottom of page:
Diesel Filters by Application - FleetFilter Online Store

 

It is highly advised not to use WIX/NAPA filters for the 6.4L/6.0L.

 

[quote=PowerStrokeHD;6799693]It is highly advised not to use WIX/NAPA filters for the 6.4L/6.0L.[/quot

PowerStrokeHD is 100% correct on this one. I would only use Motorcraft fuel filters and Motorcraft / Racor oil filters for the 6.4 and 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel engines.

 

LMAO, here we go again......... Guys I own a NAPA store sell TONS of them and get no complaints, I run them myself in my 6.0's and 6.4's. Whats so funny is guys made these claims back when the 6.0's first came out as well and the filter in the Wix box was a Racor Element which is OE.

 

Yeah, urban myths are hard to kill, eh?
I know plenty of ppl that use 'em in ALL types of engines with zero problems.

 

Myself, I did not see much in the way of real complaints on WIX filters up until about 2005 when they decided to cheap out and try to make their own oil filters rather than repackaging Racors. Thats when the complaints really started. I say try because all they ended up with is a filter that was slow to build pressure on cold startup, allowed unfiltered oil to pass to the engine and overall just did not filter as well. Not exactly what I would want in my engine...

It tends to be really difficult to replicate a filter that does what it is supposed to (or try in this case) when another manufacturer (in this case Parker-Hannifin/Racor) holds the patents to not only the filters themselves, but the canisters that they go into. This is why WIX is no longer manufacturering the WIX 57314 (NAPA 7314) oil filter or the WIX 33899 (NAPA 3899) fuel filter and is going to transfer to Racor or destroy (at Racor's discretion) all tooling that was used to make those filters as well as pay 3.5 million to Racor...

In the end... Why would I trust my engine to a company that copies/steals designs, yet still can not manufacture a product that works as it should...

 

Um... to get back on track to the original poster...

I just replaced my fuel filters Friday. I get mine at this website:

Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

They are the cheapest I have found, they sell genuine Motorcraft filters, and the part number (FD-4609) is a kit that has both filters.

No real tutorials, but a few tips I have discovered. Get a 36mm socket FIRST before starting the proceedure. Try to get as short of a socket as possible. I found a 36mm axle socket at my local auto parts store, but it is a deepwell socket and made it tough to get the filter housing cap off the frame mounted housing without extensions and swivel adaptors (who ever designed this location for a common routine maintenance task shoud be SHOT BTW). Park your car on a raised slant with the front facing uphill if you can, I used car ramps to get the front even higher. Let the truck cool down about an hour or so before starting, and do the engine mounted filter first to relieve pressure on the system. Also, I unscrewed the gas tank cap as well.

The caps will be tough to get started when removing as they are tight in the housing, take your time and make sure not to strip the PLASTIC (geesh) cap head. When replacing the cap, use some motor oil on the new o-ring to help lubricate it and make it easier to install. After getting the first one done, put a CLEAN container under the frame mounted housing and drain the diesel out of the line using the water drain. If done right, you will only get a few pints of diesel before it stops dripping. Next - you are really on your own getting the cap off this housing and you will see why I cuss the design and location of this filter housing as well as the several wiring harnesses. Finaggle the new filter back into place, remember to put motor oil on the new o-ring, and tighten the cap back on. You only need 20 ft.lbs. of torque, so don't overtighten the cap as it is not needed. Pour the diesel fuel back into your tank and replace the gas cap. Your done.

It took me about 30-45 minutes to do both filters once the engine had set.

HTH,
Dan

 

Yes, but did you get your Powerstroke hat that I got by only paying $110 to change the gas filters?, I'm going to brave the infamous rail filter next time.

 

Does anyone have pics of what the setup looks like under the truck?

 

After changing my fuel filters and before starting I turn the key off and on 2 or 3 times so the fuel pump can refill the filter bowls. K/D makes a special socket to fit the filter covers that does not put force on the corners so it just puts pressure on the flat sides and not the corners of the "plastic" filter covers and yes it is a short aluminum 3/8" drive socket. It was less than ten dollars at the local parts house.

 

What is the interval you all are changing them?

 

15K as per the owners manual.

 

Due to the quality of today's diesel fuel we recommend changing fuel filters every other oil change in severe duty service. If the truck is used as everyday transportation every 15K is fine. Drain the fuel separator in the HFCM every oil change. On the 6.0 you cycle the key 3 times. On the 6.4 you cycle the key 6 times.