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I have manual hubs and an open diff. I had the lockouts replaced after the last time I got stuck cuz they were a PITA to engage and I didn't think they were working properly. My front tire didn't dig a hole this time like it usually does but I was getting a decent amount of torque steer and heard the transfer case thunk into position so I figured all was working the way it should. All I can guarantee is that when I get around to it the front and rear diffs are getting changed out.
Something still doesn't sound right, you could have been getting "torque steer" from just the axles turning without the hubs locked.
I mean, I couldn't get stuck in less than a foot of snow and almost bald highway tires on a rear-wheel drive '96 t-bird, a Superduty in 4x4 isn't going to be stuck in 6 inches of snow. ???
sounds kinds strange to me too. I would be out testing it now so see if it is really working. Try an open field or something with dirt. put it in 4 hi and do a circle.
With it being on dirt and just making a very low speed it should be hard to turn.
Even street tires should be able to get you un-stuck with a little bit of work in 6 inches of snow. My best snow tires I have had were the TrXus STS Radials made by Super Swamper. Unfortunately......those tires completely SUCKED in every other terrain. Didn't even last me 18,000 miles! I now run BFG KM2's......they eat up any terrain that gets in the way
Something still doesn't sound right, you could have been getting "torque steer" from just the axles turning without the hubs locked.
I mean, I couldn't get stuck in less than a foot of snow and almost bald highway tires on a rear-wheel drive '96 t-bird, a Superduty in 4x4 isn't going to be stuck in 6 inches of snow. ???
Don't even get me started on a Thunderbird in the snow. I had a 95 with the 4.6 and I LOVED that thing. Best vehicle I've ever owned or even best I've drivin in the winter. Went through close to 8 inches of snow/ice up a hill where most the of the 4 wheel drives had to pull over. I can't wait to buy another.
But back on topic. What would be wrong if my hubs were locked and the transfer case engages?
Originally Posted by senix
sounds kinds strange to me too. I would be out testing it now so see if it is really working. Try an open field or something with dirt. put it in 4 hi and do a circle.
With it being on dirt and just making a very low speed it should be hard to turn.
don't do this very much though.
My truck has really never been very hard to steer when 4 hi is engaged.
.....But back on topic. What would be wrong if my hubs were locked and the transfer case engages?.....
My truck has really never been very hard to steer when 4 hi is engaged.
If you hubs are manually locked (on the hub itself) and your switch is engaged and you still don't have four wheel drive, the you have a problem with your shift motor.
If you have it locked in 4x4 and make a shape turn on a hard surface, you should feel a jerking from the front wheels. Not good for the axles, but a way to test and see if they are really locking in.
Don't even get me started on a Thunderbird in the snow. I had a 95 with the 4.6 and I LOVED that thing. Best vehicle I've ever owned or even best I've drivin in the winter. Went through close to 8 inches of snow/ice up a hill where most the of the 4 wheel drives had to pull over. I can't wait to buy another.
I drove a 1989 t-bird (first year for the MN12 with independent rear suspension) for two years, and went through about 8 inches of snow on I95 from White Plains, NY back to Long Island. I was doing 70 MPH all the way, no one on the road at 6PM (it had been snowing all day and all the businesses closed early) and never ever felt like it was out of control. Great handling car. For what was designed as a 60/40 front/rear weight distribution vehicle, it was really incredible. But it has more to do with the driver than anything else I think.
Anyway... back to the topic at hand.
You really need to try it out on dirt and see what happens.
I would disengage the transfer case (take it out of 4wd), but leave the hubs locked Then reach around each of the front tires and try to turn the knuckle u-joints with your thumb. It would take a little effort, but you could do this with the hubs unlocked. With the hubs locked, you absolutely shouldn't be able to, of course.
Alternatively, with the TC disengaged, reach in and try to turn the front driveshaft (doing it this way will give you a mechanical advantage). If you can spin the shaft, something is wrong, and the u-joint next to the hub that isn't locked will be spinning.
Well... I need a darwin award. I decided to give my 4 wheel drive a shot since I knew it was working about a month ago and we got some snow/slush stuff last night. Went out to the garage to lock the hubs and take it out. Heres the part I need an award for... I proceeded to turn the locks and noticed that one was locked and the other wasn't. I guess the last time I had the hubs locked to pull some trees out last month I forgot to unlock one of them. So when the truck got stuck and I "locked" in... I must have unlocked one hub and locked the other. But anyway the test results are in and with both hubs locked (PROPERLY) my 4 wheel drive works both forward and backward.
Major thanks to all who have helped!
I do also have a couple questions/concerns about leaving my hubs locked in all winter.
When the hubs are locked and 4wd not engaged, making a turn lock to lock results in a clunking noise till the steering radius has been increased. Is this hurting anything?
Do any of you see a drop in fuel mileage driving with your hubs locked?
might be a slight drop as now the axles are turning. I wouldn't take sharp turns as a general rule. If you were going to be on the hwy for quite a few miles then I might think of disengaging them. Otherwise I don't think I would worry
I usually try to keep my turns as wide as possible. When it comes to making turns, I make them like I'm pulling a long trailer. I RARELY even pull into parking spots. I usually back in. I was just wondering if that clunk was anything on its way to being damaged.
My mileage tanked when I left the hubs locked in but I never had any issues leaving them locked and switching from 2wd/4wd. I've since fixed my ESOF so it's back to working correctly again (just in time, snowin' like crazy out!). The clunking noise you heard locking the wheel left/right (hubs locked/2wd) were probably the u-joints clankin' around. As senix mentioned, try to avoid locking the wheel when the front hubs are locked, u-joints no likey!!!
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