I've been having a hard time starting my diesel in this chilly weather. 32 degrees.

The truck sat for 2 months and I went to start it with only one battery and it started right up then died. I put the second battery in as the one was getting low and I could not get it to start. I eventually threw two chargers on and got it started finally.

Question is how long should I let the glowplugs stay on? I have fuel leaking at two injectors also, could that be helping? Always started fine in the warmer weather.

 

Think I know my problem.. Probably burnt out plugs? Cause I definetly left them on longer then ten seconds.

 

Just a warning starting it many times with battery unless a d4 battery or more you will end up helping the rebuilt parts industry with a new starter. Run it long with leaking return lines = a new starter too.
2 950 or 1000 cca batteries.
return lines in working order.
now if it still does not start quick after glowplugs cycle time to test glowplugs.

 

Well I have a push button for the glow plugs. Is ten seconds really the longest I can leave the GP on?

I'm not sure I understand. How does starting my truck using batteries like any other truck ruin the starter? I can't pull start the truck everytime I want to use it.

I do know not to let the starter crank over for more then 15 seconds and to let it cool off between start attempts.

 

If the battery has enough juice to turn the truck it is not going to ruin the starter. The only thing that kills starters is cranking the truck over for too long at one time. Ten seconds is definetely the longest you can hold the glow plugs on, more will burn them up if they are not already burnt up. To test them hook a test light clipped to the hot pole on the battery, remove the wire and touch it to the top of the plug, if it lights up it is good. Does it have a block heater? Plug the block heater in all night, then see if it will start, if so the problem is in the glow plugs. More than likely if it starts up and then dies it is a leak down problem, which would definetely have something to do with the leaking injectors, you probably need to put o-rings, caps, and new return lines on the injectors.

 

One more thing, if you pull start the truck it should eventually run, and if after that you start it and let it run every day it probably will be fine.

 

the starter on a diesel is under alot more strain because of the high compression making it work harder and generate heat thus killing the starter,if you ever crank on it for more than 7 seconds or so jump out and feel the connections on the pass. side battery they will probably be really hot.i know from experience haha.if you fix the leaky injectors and or return lines that will help alot!!and test your glowplugs by hooking a test light to the pos. battery terminal and touching the glowplugs with the other end if it lights up your good if it dont you have found a dead plug.sounds like you will have a few dead plugs.

 

Its a truck that I don't use very often. It needs alot of work. Sat since 01 and this spring I bought it and it fired up the fifth crank!! When I get back to my hometown next friday I'll test the plugs.

The rubber line I replace is just 3/16 fuel line right? Truck is an 85 f-350.
I know I need #111 o rings. Do I buy the caps at ford?

 

The reason 1 battery will ruin the starter it takes a lot of power to spin these fast enough low amps is THE reason number 1 reason for starter failure besides continious cranking until heat kills it. a test light is not a reliable way to test gp.s you need an volt ohm meter and a decant one not 5.99 specials. I don,t remember the exact specs but I am willing to bet dave s has explained this procedure 50 times on this forum himself not including others. there is a way to search this somebody will chime in on this.
Ps ford did not put 2 batteries for added weight if 1 would work.

 

alot of folks reuse the caps and your are correct about the o-rings and line i have heard of guys putting a see thru blue fuel line for the return to watch for air sounds like a good idea if you can find it.but i believe napa and auto zone carry the return line kit with caps rings and hose for like 35-40 bucks at ford you will probably be raped which may result in you coming out of the dealership walking funny.lol an international dealer will probably have the kit as well bein these are international motors.

 

you want about .5 to 1ohm of resistance on the gp's if you go that route

 

Hey Starmilt you obviously missed the part in my first post about putting the second battery in. Seeing as I'm an electrician I'm sure my meter is up to par.


Thanks everyone for the help! My first diesel so I hope I can get it running good. I had originally bought it for the dana 60 and sterling 10.25 thinking it wouldn't run.

 

if you have any questions post em up no reason in fighting a long battle doing trial and error trust me i have been doing that with mine lately.(not wanting to post a question to try and avoid sounding stupid)spent a crap load of $$$ doing it that way.good luck with your truck once ya get that puppy up to par you will probably fall in love with it.these damn trucks just get in your blood.

 

Thanks. Heres some pics

left to right
85 f-350 4x4 4 spd, 86 f-150 302 4spd, 80 f-250 w/one tons 460






bought a flatbed for it as the bed was pretty rusted.



I'm a pic *****

 

No I didn't miss it was just not wanting you to have to buy a starter for no reason.
The starter that lasted me the longest was in one of my work truck that i converted to one batt but that was a 4d battery to jump off heavy equipment and trucks with on a daily basis it lasted 400,000 miles infact is still in the pu just havent used it in years.
This will make everybody on here gripe but that pu never had gloplugs started all its long life on either at least once a day.