Okay 1st off I'm not a complete idiot...but I have never replaced the rotors on my '93 f 350 crewcab. I've own it for 8 or 9 years now but when i do brakes i just replace pads. So yesterday my caliper starts dumping fluid. After some quick investigating, I see the rotors look wasted. So I need to replace them. Will these rotors just pull off like a 2 wheel drive vehicle or do I need special tools and pull the locking hubs etc. I'm not afraid of pulling them apart, just have never done it and don't know what to expect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. also I assume it's easier to replace the entire caliper than rebuild it. and is it ok to just replace one side( caliper)??

 

I'm wondering this myself. I need to pull off the ones on my 93 4x4. I have the tool to pull off the first nut, but not the 2nd. its not hard, you just have to have the right tools to take apart all the 4x4 stuff. I know you will need an allen wrench and some snap ring plyers. Anyone else can chime in. Does anyone know where to get the right tool to pull the second nut off that holds the rotor on?

 

The front hub has to be dismantled to remove the rotor, there are special bearing retainer sockets available at popular parts stores that can be rented/borrowed to remove/install the locknuts. The same socket removes both nuts, be aware there is a lock ring between the inner and outer nut that has to be removed with pliers before the inner nut can be removed. Once these are off the hub/rotor assembly will come loose and can be removed. On the 1/2 ton trucks the rotor slides on over the hub and is retained by the wheel studs and whatever corrosion has built up, the studs have to be pressed out and then the rotor and hub seperated. I suspect the HD setup is similar.

 

i think the rule is replace calipers in pairs.

you both do have repair manuals in hand when you are doing this i hope.

 

I wouldn't bother replacing both calipers at one time if the other one is fine. Rotors and pads should be replaced in pairs though.

 

OK, my tool only removes the first nut. it wont fit the 2nd nut. I have been to different auto parts stores and none of them fit the 2nd nut. I always buy it and end up having to take it back. Does anyone have a part number or a place to where I can find this tool?

 

"if the other caliper is fine" is the catch.

 

Well I talked to my old neighbor who happens to be a ford mechanic(kinda forgot about that resource before posting here) He explained how the hubs were pressed into the rotors and that it's not a hard job if you have the right tools. I decided to pull off the tire and take a closer look. Yes the rotor is thin and grooved on the outside of the bad caliper side. But since I'm actually at work today and did this out in the cold, i just bought a new caliper and a set of pads and swapped them out. I think I need to bleed the brakes cause the pedal is a little soft. Can I just bleed the fronts and leave the backs alone? or do I need to do all 4?

 

Yeah? Why would you replace parts that aren't broken? The only calipers I have had to replace have been because of leaky seals or a broken bleeder screw. There is not much to them. If it ain't leaking, there is no sense replacing it simply because you replaced the other one.

 

You could bleed the fronts alone, but your best bet is to bleed all 4.

 

This is totally the wrong approach. If you only replace one caliper, that one will move much easier than the older one. This will either make the pull worse, transfer the pull to the other side, or create a pull where there wasn't one before.

ALWAYS replace calipers in pairs.

 

I can see replacing both calipers in some cases.. like when the bleed screw breaks off and you can't bleed the system, but failing any problems like that why fix what ain't broke. Occasionally fixing 1 problem exposes another but I personally have not seen any issues from changing only 1 caliper.

 

I don't replace calipers in pairs, only replace the "bad" one. If one leaks, has a broken bleeder or is otherwise damaged I replace it. If the other one is fine, doesn't leak and releases as it should I leave it in place. I've never had a problem doing so and have equal stopping power on both sides.

I just replaced one on a bronco here a few days ago, you can let go of the wheel at speed and hit the brakes and it will hold a straight line all the way to a stop no problem. hit em hard, or just a little makes no difference.

If the wheel bearing tool took the first nut off then it will remove the second, you have to remove the locking ring first though.

The inner nut has a pin sticking out of it, it fits in one of the little holes in the lock ring. Make sure you have it right when you put it back together, if the pin doesn't line up to a hole flip the lock ring over, if it still doesn't line up turn the nut slightly until it does.

Yes, knocking the studs out will separate the rotor from the hub. The new rotor/s should be mounted on the hubs and then turned to true them up to the hubs center. If you run them as is remember to use brake cleaner on them to remove the rust protection oil on them.

You'd be better to have them "trued" to the hub first though, much better pedal "feel", just smoother, longer lasting job doing so.

Do not remove the bearing races from the hubs, they need them in when turning them. It will not damage them.

 

Did you read my post? Unless there is a problem with both calipers, it is foolish to replace both.

 

Well put, my thoughts exactly.