stuck wheel
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 9
From: midwest
stuck wheel
im trying to remove the inner dual on a 05 450...so far ive pb blastered, pounded from behind the tire, tied the wheel to a jeep and ended up just dragging the truck...lastly, ive tried heating the rim with a mapp torch
should i be worried i might have roasted the bearing grease and lube?
any other tips/tricks???
should i be worried i might have roasted the bearing grease and lube?
any other tips/tricks???
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
The heating might not have been such a good idea. PB Blaster is a good idea. Try loosening your lug nuts a little then slowly drive around in circles. You'll be able to hear when the wheel breaks free.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
I've got a regular floor jack that wouldn't require you to sit under the truck. This is the method I've used and seen used in the past and it's always proved to be effective. My thinking is the up and down bouncing is a normal force that is exerted on the parts anyway. One or two good pops and the rust busts out and the wheel will slide off. Actually driving the truck and having the wheel shifting or sliding even a little sounds bad to me.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Amherstburg, On canada
I think if you slack the lugnuts off a little and just drive the truck back and forth a few times and sharply apply the brakes that will work. after all you just need the slightest movement of the rim on the hub and it will be free. i think it may be safer thann dropping it with a jack.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2002
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Loosen the lug nuts and do a burn out. If that doens't do it get a jack hammer.
Actually I would F350-6's idea. I had to do that for mine. I put a very very thin layer of anti sneeze on the back of the wheel before I re installed them as well.
Actually I would F350-6's idea. I had to do that for mine. I put a very very thin layer of anti sneeze on the back of the wheel before I re installed them as well.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, IL
Assuming you have the factory hubcentric wheels loosening the lugnuts a little bit and driving around slowly a short distance shouldn't cause any problems. I probably wouldn't do it with lug centric wheels though.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: SE WI
I just had this problem with my truck. I even drove around NASCAR style with loose lug nuts and I couldn't get the tire off. I ended up using a bottle jack and 2X4 to the frame and the back of the wheel to jack it off.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 9
From: midwest
that was one of my plans...ill try a hard stop and ride around the block but i dont think it will budge
btw...how long have your rear brakes lasted...mine only made 25k mi all city...i would expect that for the fronts but not the rears
btw...how long have your rear brakes lasted...mine only made 25k mi all city...i would expect that for the fronts but not the rears
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 9
From: midwest
riding around and braking hard with loose lug nuts didnt help at all...there was no room to make a bottle jack work and mine doesnt work horizontally (NS F250???)...i bought the biggest 3 jaw puller i could find and i just fit over the hub and hooked in the rim...went to town and it still didnt budge, but after using a bf sledgehammer on the back sides of the tire it ever so slightly budged...after repeatingly tightening the puller and beating the **** out of the tire i got it off!!!
there is practically no clearance between the hub and wheel opening that it has to come off perfectly straight
the inner brake pad had about 1/16" or less left before metal on metal...tried to do the other side but the puller snapped, but the pads are not critical on that side...im going to order new calipers and hoses so i will change it all next week...should i go with phenoic or steel calipers?
btw, they make a nice tool for this
Kiene Diesel Wheel Grabber For Seized-On Wheels K-1350
there is practically no clearance between the hub and wheel opening that it has to come off perfectly straight
the inner brake pad had about 1/16" or less left before metal on metal...tried to do the other side but the puller snapped, but the pads are not critical on that side...im going to order new calipers and hoses so i will change it all next week...should i go with phenoic or steel calipers?
btw, they make a nice tool for this
Kiene Diesel Wheel Grabber For Seized-On Wheels K-1350
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: W. Wisc
Use some high temp brake grease on the mating surfaces. I've run into this in the past, and so I ALWAYS grease up the contact areas every time a tire is off (within reason). Make sure it is high temp brake grease, and make darn sure you keep it VERY light so it doesn't and cannot drip onto the disc/drum braking surfaces. You only need to stop corrosion freeze-up, you're not packing bearings here...
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: SE WI
riding around and braking hard with loose lug nuts didnt help at all...there was no room to make a bottle jack work and mine doesnt work horizontally (NS F250???)...i bought the biggest 3 jaw puller i could find and i just fit over the hub and hooked in the rim...went to town and it still didnt budge, but after using a bf sledgehammer on the back sides of the tire it ever so slightly budged...after repeatingly tightening the puller and beating the **** out of the tire i got it off!!!
there is practically no clearance between the hub and wheel opening that it has to come off perfectly straight
the inner brake pad had about 1/16" or less left before metal on metal...tried to do the other side but the puller snapped, but the pads are not critical on that side...im going to order new calipers and hoses so i will change it all next week...should i go with phenoic or steel calipers?
btw, they make a nice tool for this
Kiene Diesel Wheel Grabber For Seized-On Wheels K-1350
there is practically no clearance between the hub and wheel opening that it has to come off perfectly straight
the inner brake pad had about 1/16" or less left before metal on metal...tried to do the other side but the puller snapped, but the pads are not critical on that side...im going to order new calipers and hoses so i will change it all next week...should i go with phenoic or steel calipers?
btw, they make a nice tool for this
Kiene Diesel Wheel Grabber For Seized-On Wheels K-1350
