hey y'all i have a 68 f350 ,360 cid manual shift,no power steering.there is no tags as far as telling me the specs.
1. how many degrees btc
2.idle speed
i just put a new timming chain in it so now it runs different.it used to start cold on first or secound revolution,but now it takes a few more.and before i replaced the chain when i turned the truck off and let it sit for 30 min. it would take alot to start,so i thought the chain would cure that.points are good,vacume advance is good,just can't figure the hot starting problem,is this a comine problem with a points set up?
right now it is set at 4 deg. btdc,but still starting crappy
3.now a new problem occured ,it seems to have a liftter nock only when you start it back up when hot then slowly goes away after about 30 sec.started it up this morning and its about 25 degs out and no lifter nock.when i got this truck i replaced the valve covers and noticed alot of gunk under them so ive been changing the oil every 500 miles.im using 15w40 diesel oil and a quart of transmission for the high detergent.

 

I'd say stock timing is about 6-8 degrees, the idle speed would be around 650-700 rpm. 4 deg is a bit low and probably half your problem in getting it started. Turn it up to about 8 and see how it starts. You're basically firing the plug when the piston hits near TDC, instead of before and likely is part of the hard starting. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

Usually the carb is the issue with HOT starting issues. The fuel will boil out of the bowls, thus making you crank it to get it to start. These trucks are notorious for this problem and installing a phenolic spacer under the carb will help.

It only rattles the lifters when restarting HOT? Not when sitting all night? Usually means a/some lifters are bleeding down(oil pressure) and causing a rattle til the oil pressure builds back up. Have you ever cut a filter open after changing it lately? To see what you're getting out of the oil.

Personally I won't get too carried away with "cleaning" it out as usually it only brings in problems. All the "gunk" will cause problems floating around in the oil and might get hung up in the oil pump and lock it up. How much nylon gear material was gone from the stock timing chain? Likely the oil pan is full of the pieces and they like to clog the screen to the oil pump. Replacing the chain was a good maintenance item, as usually by 100K miles there is nothing much left of them.

I'd probably not use auto tranny fluid mixed in. Might not really hurt, but personally I wouldn't.

 

thanx freight. thats what i was wondering if the liffters can bleed down. so it is the carb that makes sense because is seems like its out of gas.i kind of doughted the ingnition when hot because the it would even be a problem when running.i been changing the filter every 500 miles also and its pretty bad.the nylon cam gear had all the nylon on it but had heavy indentations from the chain also the crank did also making a great deal of play in it.the guy next door thought it was around 4 deg. but thanx for the info. it helps out greatly,this is my work truck for my buisness so i need it running good.my next project is taking the engine out and replacing the exaust manifolds out of the truck so i have a better chance of not breaking the bolts. and while i have it out i'll take the oil pan off clean out ,new gasket,new rear main seal.all has to be done in a day can't let it sit.just like everyone else gota wait for $$$$$$

 

Go back and verify what timing set you installed. If you installed a '72-up timing set, you might have change the cam timing. Make sure you used a pre-72 timing set.

 

Try between 10 & 12 deg. timing.If your timing is around 4,then you're not getting the proper burning of fuel which may cause your "knock".

 

Also check your float level if this doesn't clear up your hard starting problem.

 

I don't think float level has a damn thing to do with starting (hard or easy) as long as the choke is working properly.

 

I'd say if it's too high, then maybe it's allowing fuel to percolate into the venturis and then flooding the motor when you shut it off hot. My stock original autolite was horrible for this. Real pain to get re-started sometimes.

20+ yrs and NEVER had a choke on anything. 26 degrees today, trucks been sitting for a few weeks now, few pumps of the pedal and the ol 352 came right to life. No choke plate, just high idle cam.

I do run about 12 degrees timing on my 352. Stock is about 6-8?

 

man i dont think it would of been a kit for 72-up but i will check it out ,the marks linned right up from the old one and i did not have to rotate any thing for them to match,but i will check it out.as far as the float level i'll check that also,hey if i unhook the coolant flow from the carb you rekkin that will help with the hot startting?i timed it around 10 deg. it seemd to make a difference,.but it will pop every once in a while ,when you accerlarate back up from low rr's,so i recheck it and had to time it again.the carb is a pain in the @$$ the linkage attached to the butterfly rod in loose so at a light it never returns to low idle,i'm gunna toss it but just gota earn more $$ with it first.blah blah blah sorry for goin on too much coffie ths morn.

 

OK, it was just a thought, but if you didn't have to move anything to get it back on, then the timing is exactly the same.

 

Get RID of that water heater crap under the carb. That's good for Antartica, but in warm weather it's a waste. Plug it off or just bypass around it.

The POP when trying to acclerate is the "lack" of accelerator pump action. Those Autolite carbs are know for that symptom also. The pump arm follows the linkage and if the little spring on the throttle shaft is stiff then it won't push the pump when you step on the gas. This will give you a lean out condition and it will POP. If you accelerate really easy, then it will work great, if you stab it you'll notice a hesitation. Spray some WD40 around the linkage and it should help.

Get rid of that monkey motion linkage and just make a nice straight rod from the pedal arm to carb. Heck in a pinch I've used a coat hanger bent to fit. Then find some nice threaded rod and a couple small heim ends to make it "nice".

A few tweaks and you'll have it working like a swiss watch. An old swiss watch, but one none the less LOL!!

 

Mine won't even do that with the pump rod removed. LOL :)
I richened up the low peed circuit just a little bit.
I have the pump rod in the lowest hole.
No stumbling or back firing through the carburetor on mine. :)

Yeah! :)

Shorten (kink) the wire-rod so there is tension on the rod, at rest...
...then there will be -no slop- in the system...
...as soon as the throttle's crank moves...
...gas gets moved instantly.

Tinkering with silly stuff like this is what I do best. ;)

Alvin in AZ
'75 F150 2wd 360FE 2100 T18

 

My linkage was always "tight". The fact that it was too stiff and the whimpy spring didn't make it move fast enough to keep up. Keeping it lubed up really helped, but who carries WD40 with them all the time.

I removed the junk and put on stuff that works correctly! LOL!!!

 

I've got two cans in my truck-lol

 

Holy crap!! That reminds me, the manual choke assembly Larry sent me is still setting on the top of the dresser LMAO!! Procrastination can sometimes be my middle name.. But she has been starting like a top since getting the used points dizzy installed. Even starting great hot, and idling good. Had something to do with a "cheap" rubber vac cap cracking on the draft tube. Turns out she was just getting to much much fresh air for a while LOL...