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ESOF vacuum problem

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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 01:40 PM
  #1  
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ESOF vacuum problem

I have a broken vacuum connector at the hub, Is there a common mod to fix this? Its where the small line meets the big line, I was gonna go rummage trhough the brss fittings at meads hardware, but want to make sure its not as simple as getting a Help part from say AutoZone.
Thanks Dan
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Brass fitting would keep you from breaking it again.

I think the most popular mod is to plug the lines and put manual hubs in it.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Really, how would I shift from 4 lo to 4Hi, and are'nt the factory hubs already manual, kinda like a back up deal if the ESOF fails?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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The transfer case is not vacuum operated. There is an electric motor on yours where the shifter lever is on mine.

The factory hubs do have a manual position for that reason. Aftermarket hubs are simply stronger and more durable. If you don't want to give up the convenience of the dash **** to lock them your only option is to repair your current set up. There are no aftermarket vacuum operated hubs.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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If you opt for aftermarket manual hubs like I did, you will need to plug your vacuum lines going to the hubs so your HVAC controls will work correctly.
The vacuum leaks are the main reason I went with Warn Premiums. Seemed like I would get one leak fixed and another would appear. Decided to get some hubs I could depend on when I needed them.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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I Have An O3 F350 With The Auto Hubs...i Just Had Them Replaced Under Wty Due To Not Unlocking When I Manually Turned Them From Lock To Auto Dash **** On 2hi....just Rechecked Them On My Lift At Work Came In Spinning Free,locked Ok When I Turned To Lock, Turned Back To Auto Lf Wont Unlock...is This A Common Problem With This Style Hub?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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The seals are out of my hubs. I plugged the vacuum lines and just use them as manual. Doesn't really bother me.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:53 PM
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Keep a check on them and make sure the line going to the hub is sealed to keep water and dirt out. Work them often to prevent sticking.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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I personally like the vacuum setup, I have gone through both of mine replacing seals and the lines going down as well. Main reason why is I don't like rims that look sweet on the back but appear as if there is a hold on the fronts. Having the vacuum setup working enables me to run the the caps on the front as well. Just plain looks better IMO
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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I have both lines plugged to keep water out of the hub.

My seals are out behind the turn portion of the lockout. I haven't found any place to purchase these. I am not sure if I want to tear them down that far anyway.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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Have a look at Guzzles site (link in my sig) for his section on rebuilding the hubs. You might find the info, inclulding part numbers there.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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I've done that one. Those are the outer seals, not inside next to the selector.

From Guzzle:
The diaphragm and Auto/Lock selector appears to be factory assembled and I have yet been able to figure out how to separate them without damaging the diaphragm.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Ok, I know he's still working on a cure for those. That's why some of us have sent him our old one's to play with. With my Warn Premiums, I know that they will turn and lock and work when I need them.
You can alway buy new hubs from Ford for $360+ per side and keep the convience of ESOF.. I have already gave my good one away to another member to use or you could have it.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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I think I would rather just get our and lock it in myself rather than give up that kind of money right now. It's not that big of a deal.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ggirten
I've done that one. Those are the outer seals, not inside next to the selector.

From Guzzle:
The diaphragm and Auto/Lock selector appears to be factory assembled and I have yet been able to figure out how to separate them without damaging the diaphragm.
Actually, I need to update the page a bit because I have figured out how to get the dial off, but you need to drill a small 1/8" hole in the **** to be successful. If I can ever get my hands on a good replacement o-ring for the dial, I'll finish the article. All the available US size o-rings are too thick and cause the **** to bind up and not turn.... that's not going to help anyone!

If the internal rubber membrane behind the **** is leaking, that's a new one on me. From what I have found, that boot is about the toughest part of the entire hub and while exploring how to remove the ****, I had a devil of a time just to get a hole punched through it.
 
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