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I have a broken vacuum connector at the hub, Is there a common mod to fix this? Its where the small line meets the big line, I was gonna go rummage trhough the brss fittings at meads hardware, but want to make sure its not as simple as getting a Help part from say AutoZone.
Thanks Dan
The transfer case is not vacuum operated. There is an electric motor on yours where the shifter lever is on mine.
The factory hubs do have a manual position for that reason. Aftermarket hubs are simply stronger and more durable. If you don't want to give up the convenience of the dash **** to lock them your only option is to repair your current set up. There are no aftermarket vacuum operated hubs.
If you opt for aftermarket manual hubs like I did, you will need to plug your vacuum lines going to the hubs so your HVAC controls will work correctly.
The vacuum leaks are the main reason I went with Warn Premiums. Seemed like I would get one leak fixed and another would appear. Decided to get some hubs I could depend on when I needed them.
I Have An O3 F350 With The Auto Hubs...i Just Had Them Replaced Under Wty Due To Not Unlocking When I Manually Turned Them From Lock To Auto Dash **** On 2hi....just Rechecked Them On My Lift At Work Came In Spinning Free,locked Ok When I Turned To Lock, Turned Back To Auto Lf Wont Unlock...is This A Common Problem With This Style Hub?
I personally like the vacuum setup, I have gone through both of mine replacing seals and the lines going down as well. Main reason why is I don't like rims that look sweet on the back but appear as if there is a hold on the fronts. Having the vacuum setup working enables me to run the the caps on the front as well. Just plain looks better IMO
I have both lines plugged to keep water out of the hub.
My seals are out behind the turn portion of the lockout. I haven't found any place to purchase these. I am not sure if I want to tear them down that far anyway.
I've done that one. Those are the outer seals, not inside next to the selector.
From Guzzle:
The diaphragm and Auto/Lock selector appears to be factory assembled and I have yet been able to figure out how to separate them without damaging the diaphragm.
Ok, I know he's still working on a cure for those. That's why some of us have sent him our old one's to play with. With my Warn Premiums, I know that they will turn and lock and work when I need them.
You can alway buy new hubs from Ford for $360+ per side and keep the convience of ESOF.. I have already gave my good one away to another member to use or you could have it.
I've done that one. Those are the outer seals, not inside next to the selector.
From Guzzle:
The diaphragm and Auto/Lock selector appears to be factory assembled and I have yet been able to figure out how to separate them without damaging the diaphragm.
Actually, I need to update the page a bit because I have figured out how to get the dial off, but you need to drill a small 1/8" hole in the **** to be successful. If I can ever get my hands on a good replacement o-ring for the dial, I'll finish the article. All the available US size o-rings are too thick and cause the **** to bind up and not turn.... that's not going to help anyone!
If the internal rubber membrane behind the **** is leaking, that's a new one on me. From what I have found, that boot is about the toughest part of the entire hub and while exploring how to remove the ****, I had a devil of a time just to get a hole punched through it.