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I would, however, do it in three steps incrementing the torque a little each time.
Bear, I wonder, any way the difference in techniques might contribute or lessen intake gasket failure? (as in, your method being better)
I've seen both methods suggested. Seeing as how I've never had an intake gasket failure (other than end corks, which I don't count), no I don't see one as better than another. However the heads use the spiral method so I tend to prefer that.
Most important thing is temporarily stabbing the distributor in before any bolts - just as a locating tool. Next is to start all the bolts before tightening any of them. I usually check for intake flange alignment to the heads and port alignment before putting things together "for keeps". I tend to think that the FE intake is so large and so flexible that either pattern will work.
Guys, thanks for all the feedback. I asked the question because I am suddenly getting oil in my anti-freeze and figured the intake manifold may simply need tightening, since it's only got 15k on it since installation. I discovered that 6 of the 10 bolts took about an 1/8th turn to seat again. However, after flushing the system the problem still exists. Other than this issue the engine runs just fine with no other symptoms of trouble, and anti-freeze is not getting into the oil. So, I suspect all it needs is new manifold gaskets to solve the problem and not a head gasket...would you agree??
I hate to rain on you're parade But..... It sounds like the oil passages in the block have either rusted thru or have cracked. Very very common on FEs. You'll get oil it the coolant but won't get coolant in the oil. There is a fix for this problem. It's not too difficult.
I hate to rain on you're parade But..... It sounds like the oil passages in the block have either rusted thru or have cracked. Very very common on FEs. You'll get oil it the coolant but won't get coolant in the oil. There is a fix for this problem. It's not too difficult.
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