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It will need to be installed on the trailer, its not something that is easily swapped back and forth. The TRUCK half is easy to swap, but the trailer half requires installation, many times involving welding.
no big deal installing the trailer part clamps to the tongue
I use the WD hitch and bars on all my trailers loaded or empty if I'm going any distance,real good insurance against trailer comming loose
Hey, Thanks for all the info, guys, I think I'm going to go with the WD and sway control. That's all I need is to dump it over or jack knife while towing alone. I need to find out what everything weighs together like you said. I would like to be able to haul 2 dirt bikes, a full tank of fuel in the truck and a stocked RV trailer with fresh water tank full and food. The trailer I know is 6500. I just have to go check the hitch again. Once again, thank you!
Hey, Thanks for all the info, guys, I think I'm going to go with the WD and sway control. That's all I need is to dump it over or jack knife while towing alone. I need to find out what everything weighs together like you said. I would like to be able to haul 2 dirt bikes, a full tank of fuel in the truck and a stocked RV trailer with fresh water tank full and food. The trailer I know is 6500. I just have to go check the hitch again. Once again, thank you!
This is a very smart decision. It is IMO cheap insurance for you, your family and those you share the road with. Life does come at you QUICK...and being prepared is always better than the alternative.
You mentioned 6500#'s...is that the DRY weight?...if so...ignore DRY weights...how many times do you tow a trailer with no gear.
If it is the GVWR sticker...that's better...but still you need to physically run the trailer across a scale.
THREE weights is all you need to know all about your truck, the trailer and the tongue weight/WD set up.
All weights should be with both truck and trailer LOADED as ready for camping. Any passengers, gear, water, firewood, gear in bed of truck, EVERYTHING you would carry when camping.
Get individual axle weights. Truck steer, Truck drive, Trailer tandem together is fine
1) Truck (TV) by itself. This gives you the baseline axle loads.
2) TV hitched up with WD ENGAGED. Compare the front TV axle weight to that in weight #1 above. If these weights are EQUAL your WD is GOOD. If the current weight is LESS than that in weight #1, you need more WD as you have to shift more weight BACK to the front axle since it is still off loaded due to the tongue. If the current weight is MORE than that in weight #1, you need less WD (unlikely but possible)
3) TV hitched up with WD NOT engaged. This will give you your tongue weight. But you will need to SUBTRACT the shifted FRONT weight that is currently appearing on the REAR axle. If you compare the current front axle weight to that in weight #1, you will notice that your front axle is likely lighter by several hundred pounds...you need to remove that from your rear and what is now left on the rear axle over the orginal rear axle weight is your tongue weight.
easy as pie...
If I have confused you simply ask and I can provide a simple example with numbers.
i had that same camper. i thought when i bought it that with my truck i would not need the w/d hitch. i was wrong. on regular 2 lane roads it was fine. on the highway it was scary.
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