Stripping frame
#1
Stripping frame
Hi guys i have my frame almost stripped and have some POR coming in the mail. I am planning on putting either a 302 or 351 in my truck. I wanted to know if my stock crossmembers should stay in place and when im ready for my engine where should i get my mounts and what type. Oh and my truck is a 54 and had a V8 and all x members still there. And also curious if i should box my frame in some or add some cross bracing. Im planning on running around three hundred horsepower at the most three fifty. Also planning on using a C6 or a T5 any advice or info is appreciated. Thanks guys. Oh and one more question does anyone have experience with a flux core wire welder? Im going to buy a welder soon. I have used a mig with shielding gas but was wondering if its really necessary.
#2
#3
I'd box it as long as you have it down to the frame - never hurts, and you might want to add things later that will require it - like a different front end. I had a 55 with a 289 in it and left the cross members alone. The crossmembers should all be ok as is - but someone else may have a different opinion. You can get bolt on and weld on motor mount conversion kits for your truck and those engines that will work just fine. LMC has them.
I had an off the shelf bolt on tubular type motor mount on my 51 with a 390/C6 and broke the weld on the passenger side. So I took it to a welding shop and had them box the frame and build a custom tubular mount - $500!
Have fun
Julie
Julie
I had an off the shelf bolt on tubular type motor mount on my 51 with a 390/C6 and broke the weld on the passenger side. So I took it to a welding shop and had them box the frame and build a custom tubular mount - $500!
Have fun
Julie
Julie
#4
Make sure you don't need to do any welding anywhere on the frame before you put on the POR 15. That stuff is dang near impossible to get off. If you decide to go Volare IFS, I have a set of the templates and I'm only about 100 miles South of you. Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, just an offer. Have fun!! Steve
#5
If you are keeping the stock front suspension, you should not box the frame...the frame was intended to do some flexing as is. If you put a modern IFS, then I would box it as the suspension will do the work and not the frame.
I am keeping the straight axle and will be using the tubular mounts like AX mentioned. I am putting in a 1970 351 Cleveland in mine with a C4.
I am keeping the straight axle and will be using the tubular mounts like AX mentioned. I am putting in a 1970 351 Cleveland in mine with a C4.
#6
Thanks for all the good info. I think I will just bite the bullet and go ahead and get the gas. And i guess the bolt on mounts will be fine too. Also wondering if anyone here has done a T5 swap. Also I am going to have to do the front floor pans and rear cab corners on my truck. Any suggestions.
#7
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#8
IMHO, I would set the engine as low and as far back as you can, these f100's are frontend /nose heavy,so the further back you can set that weight the better..but you can only go so far before the engine hits the firewall. An old rule of thumb used to state, put the #1 sparkplug behind the center of the front axle..good luck on that one..LoL! Take your time and do the best you can, but don't weld anything permanent until you have your steering shaft/box clearenced...sometimes helps to offset the engine to the pass side a little...keep in mind there is the pinion angle further down the road. There really are a lot of things going on at the same time to consider ..take your time.
As far as cab corners go, that's another subject all together ,. do a search and see what you come up with.
As far as cab corners go, that's another subject all together ,. do a search and see what you come up with.
#10
One other thing to consider is the rear (transmission) crossmember. I've seen several trucks that have had this crossmember removed. If it is not replaced with something that attaches to both the top and bottom of the frame, the frame will tend to twist under the weight of the cab cantilevered off of those long mounts. If it is bad enough, the cab itself will sit directly on the frame rails at the front. Makes it difficult to get all the sheet metal to line up and probably squeaks like crazy!
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#11
#12
Well I am keeping my stock suspension at this point. I am not an expert welder but I have used a MIG many times and had no problems. I was just thinking of boxing in the frame or adding a brace or two to prevent any frame twist. I also have a pair of cab corners and floor pans to replace. Thanks