1979 F150 transfer NP205
#1
11-09-2008, 07:03 PM
1979 F150 transfer NP205
My 1979 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4 has a transfer case that is a NP 205 part time transfer. It is very clean and has been dry for years, however it is now starting to leak in only one place. I do not want to drop the case or do anything major, just fix this one leak.
When I engage the transfer case to high, the rods that slide in and out of the casing to engage the transfer is where amounts of diff. oil is leaking. Are there seals that go around these rods that go into the casing. Can I fix this without anyting major. I notice a side panel on the pass side of case that might be a acess hole, any ideas or help ???
When I engage the transfer case to high, the rods that slide in and out of the casing to engage the transfer is where amounts of diff. oil is leaking. Are there seals that go around these rods that go into the casing. Can I fix this without anyting major. I notice a side panel on the pass side of case that might be a acess hole, any ideas or help ???
#2
11-09-2008, 07:29 PM
That cover is a PTO access cover, and is of little use for you problem.
You can remove the small seal themselves by makin a small hole in the edge of the seal and inserting a small sheetmetal screw or drywall screw. The screw will give you something to grab. Pull on the screw and the seal should pop out.
Install a new seal, and you should be fine.
Now, after all of this, I am wondering why the oil level is so high that this leaks from here.
Did you verify that the oil level was correct? These seals are more to keep debris out, and not necessarilly to keep the oil in.
I suppose that diring use some oil will splash around here, but not so much that it could leak real bad.
Either way, they are pretty easy to replace.
You can remove the small seal themselves by makin a small hole in the edge of the seal and inserting a small sheetmetal screw or drywall screw. The screw will give you something to grab. Pull on the screw and the seal should pop out.
Install a new seal, and you should be fine.
Now, after all of this, I am wondering why the oil level is so high that this leaks from here.
Did you verify that the oil level was correct? These seals are more to keep debris out, and not necessarilly to keep the oil in.
I suppose that diring use some oil will splash around here, but not so much that it could leak real bad.
Either way, they are pretty easy to replace.
#3
11-09-2008, 11:06 PM
Shift rail seal
Thanks for the info. I looked up a picture and it looks like I need a Ford NP205 shift rial seal kit, 2 seals that have spring loaded lips for superior sealing. It looks like once I take the pins off the shift rail rods, I can pull the old seal and replace them. I think I will pull the carpet and take off the cover from inside of the cab shift hump in the middle of the cab floor and work from inside the cab, I should have direct access to this shift rail area on top of the transfer case. Am I right ?? Will I need any special tools??
#4
11-10-2008, 08:38 PM
OK, well, you are correct about taking the shift rails off, but you are not gonna do this while the case is in the truck.
There is a special sequence to remove the long rail, and the "shuttle pin" prevents its removal, prior to the range rail. This range rail is the short rail closest to the input.
You will have to pound the small freeze plugs into the case itself, and then find them once they fall into the case. Then you will have to drive the roll pin through the shift fork, and through the entire shift rail. This too will fall into the bottom of the case, and you will have to find a way to suspend the shift fork, or it will fall. I can just about guarantee that you will drop one of the two shift forks, and more than likely both of them.
You will then have to figure out how to lift them into place again, and hold them up, while you simultaneously slide the shift rail back in.
Not being able to tilt the case up on its side is gonna make this an almost impossible job.
I have performed a "twin stick" modification on these t-cases on several occasions, and can tell you from experience that I will never do this while the case is in the truck.
Alright, the way you can do this without removing too much is as I mentioned above.
Simply remove the small "L" shaped bracket that connects the two shift rails together from the rails and the linkage, and set it aside. It only fits one direction, so toss it aside, but dont lose the pins that hold this to the rails.
Once removed you can just puncture a small hold into the edge of the seal. Then insert a small sheetmetal screw or drywall screw, and once secure, pull witl pliers. The screw will stay in and allow you a point of attachment.
You may have to install two screws and pull evenly, but this method works well, and you do not have to remove any of the rails, or even open the case at all.
Once removed, then replace the seals with new ones, and you are golden.
Install shift linkage and related components, and you are done.
The rails do not have to be removed to replace the seals, you just have to get creative with the removal of the seals.
This means that the carpet can stay intact, and you will save many hours of headaches, because when you cant find a roll pin, or you cant line up the shift fork with the small hole in the shaft, you will immediately want to kill something out of frustration.
Ask me how I know.......
MAke this as easy as it can be.
There is a special sequence to remove the long rail, and the "shuttle pin" prevents its removal, prior to the range rail. This range rail is the short rail closest to the input.
You will have to pound the small freeze plugs into the case itself, and then find them once they fall into the case. Then you will have to drive the roll pin through the shift fork, and through the entire shift rail. This too will fall into the bottom of the case, and you will have to find a way to suspend the shift fork, or it will fall. I can just about guarantee that you will drop one of the two shift forks, and more than likely both of them.
You will then have to figure out how to lift them into place again, and hold them up, while you simultaneously slide the shift rail back in.
Not being able to tilt the case up on its side is gonna make this an almost impossible job.
I have performed a "twin stick" modification on these t-cases on several occasions, and can tell you from experience that I will never do this while the case is in the truck.
Alright, the way you can do this without removing too much is as I mentioned above.
Simply remove the small "L" shaped bracket that connects the two shift rails together from the rails and the linkage, and set it aside. It only fits one direction, so toss it aside, but dont lose the pins that hold this to the rails.
Once removed you can just puncture a small hold into the edge of the seal. Then insert a small sheetmetal screw or drywall screw, and once secure, pull witl pliers. The screw will stay in and allow you a point of attachment.
You may have to install two screws and pull evenly, but this method works well, and you do not have to remove any of the rails, or even open the case at all.
Once removed, then replace the seals with new ones, and you are golden.
Install shift linkage and related components, and you are done.
The rails do not have to be removed to replace the seals, you just have to get creative with the removal of the seals.
This means that the carpet can stay intact, and you will save many hours of headaches, because when you cant find a roll pin, or you cant line up the shift fork with the small hole in the shaft, you will immediately want to kill something out of frustration.
Ask me how I know.......
MAke this as easy as it can be.
