Hard starting sorta
Thread Starter
|
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21,341
Likes: 8,060
From: North Central Washington
Hard starting sorta
I have a 1997 7.3L with 177k miles, all stock. Here's the deal, when it's cold 35° to 40° I have crank and crank unless it's plugged in.
I have checked the GP relay and it's OK, I am not sure how to test the glow plugs but I'm sure some of them are bad. The heating element in the fuel filter bowl is also broken.
It seems as though it is starting to have problems even when warm. Not real bad but I have to crank it a couple of seconds before it starts. I have also noticed a little lack of power mostly when pulling hills.
SO what do I need to check besides the glow plugs? And how do I test the glow plugs? It's been awhile but if I remember right there are two plugs on each valve cover each with 5 or 6 pins.
Tim
I have checked the GP relay and it's OK, I am not sure how to test the glow plugs but I'm sure some of them are bad. The heating element in the fuel filter bowl is also broken.
It seems as though it is starting to have problems even when warm. Not real bad but I have to crank it a couple of seconds before it starts. I have also noticed a little lack of power mostly when pulling hills.
SO what do I need to check besides the glow plugs? And how do I test the glow plugs? It's been awhile but if I remember right there are two plugs on each valve cover each with 5 or 6 pins.
Tim
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: THUNDER BAY
Yeah your right two plugs on each cover 5 pins. Unplug the harness and look in the valve cover part of the connector there is five pins the middle pin is ground the two on either side of it are injectors to ohm injectors put your neg lead on the middle pin and test each pin on either side they should read around 3.5 ohms the next two pins out are the glow plugs ground your meter to the neg on the battery and test the pins they should ohm out at 0.5 or 0.6 ohms.
When you unplug the harnesses have a good look at everything if it smells like burning or there is oil on the plugs chances are you may have melted or burnt wiring under the valve cover
When you unplug the harnesses have a good look at everything if it smells like burning or there is oil on the plugs chances are you may have melted or burnt wiring under the valve cover
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
When it starts without the block heater does it stumble and miss a lot?
How does it run when starting with the block heater plugged in?
How did you check the GPR? If you measured 12V on both large terminals when it's
activated doesn't necessarily mean the GPR is good. It may not be carrying the load to the GP's.
There are 2 connectors on each valve cover (VC) that have 5 pins each.
G I C I G
G=Glow plug
I=Injector
C=Common ground for Injectors
Look for burnt pins/sockets in the UVC harness before testing the GP's. It's a common failure.
The GP's should measure 2-3 ohms, anything higher they are getting weak.
There is a harness under the VC's that may need attention too
How does it run when starting with the block heater plugged in?
How did you check the GPR? If you measured 12V on both large terminals when it's
activated doesn't necessarily mean the GPR is good. It may not be carrying the load to the GP's.
There are 2 connectors on each valve cover (VC) that have 5 pins each.
G I C I G
G=Glow plug
I=Injector
C=Common ground for Injectors
Look for burnt pins/sockets in the UVC harness before testing the GP's. It's a common failure.
The GP's should measure 2-3 ohms, anything higher they are getting weak.
There is a harness under the VC's that may need attention too
Thread Starter
|
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21,341
Likes: 8,060
From: North Central Washington
How does it run when starting with the block heater plugged in?
How did you check the GPR? If you measured 12V on both large terminals when it's
activated doesn't necessarily mean the GPR is good. It may not be carrying the load to the GP's.
activated doesn't necessarily mean the GPR is good. It may not be carrying the load to the GP's.
There are 2 connectors on each valve cover (VC) that have 5 pins each.
G I C I G
G=Glow plug
I=Injector
C=Common ground for Injectors
Look for burnt pins/sockets in the UVC harness before testing the GP's. It's a common failure.
The GP's should measure 2-3 ohms, anything higher they are getting weak.
There is a harness under the VC's that may need attention too
G I C I G
G=Glow plug
I=Injector
C=Common ground for Injectors
Look for burnt pins/sockets in the UVC harness before testing the GP's. It's a common failure.
The GP's should measure 2-3 ohms, anything higher they are getting weak.
There is a harness under the VC's that may need attention too
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
It sounds like you have 1 or more GP's that are bad. The GPR could be either way. Do the GP's first.
The GPR is difficult to test for load unless you have an Amp meter that can measure very high current.
200+ Amps
If you find 1 bad GP then I would change all 8. It doesn't make sense to me
to change just one GP unless you like removing the valve covers
Besides
they are much cheaper now. I get them from ebay for $38 a set delivered
for Motorcraft ZD11 Berus. I wouldn't use any other brand. Autolites and
others can swell and get stuck in the head or snap off...not good!
Here is a link to a GPR mod. It will outlast the truck IMO
2 years is about the longest I've had an OEM style GPR last.
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
The GPR is difficult to test for load unless you have an Amp meter that can measure very high current.
200+ Amps
If you find 1 bad GP then I would change all 8. It doesn't make sense to me
to change just one GP unless you like removing the valve covers
Besides they are much cheaper now. I get them from ebay for $38 a set delivered
for Motorcraft ZD11 Berus. I wouldn't use any other brand. Autolites and
others can swell and get stuck in the head or snap off...not good!
Here is a link to a GPR mod. It will outlast the truck IMO
2 years is about the longest I've had an OEM style GPR last.
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
Thread Starter
|
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21,341
Likes: 8,060
From: North Central Washington
Thanks Cuda Jim,
So the GP's will even make it hard to start when it is warm?
OK well as soon as I get my Bronco out of the shop, I'll put my big truck in there and check it out. I will let you know what I come up with.
Tim
So the GP's will even make it hard to start when it is warm?
OK well as soon as I get my Bronco out of the shop, I'll put my big truck in there and check it out. I will let you know what I come up with.
Tim
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
You're welcome.
The GP's will have no effect on warm starting, I don't think you have a warm start problem. You said a couple seconds to fire up....that's about normal IMO.
I think you need to fix the cold start problem first then see what happens from there.
If you do have a warm start problem it would likely be the IPR orings.
The GP's will have no effect on warm starting, I don't think you have a warm start problem. You said a couple seconds to fire up....that's about normal IMO.
I think you need to fix the cold start problem first then see what happens from there.
If you do have a warm start problem it would likely be the IPR orings.
