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Got my 3 gauge set-up and my dp from Dennis. Now if I could just get someone to put them in! I guess that will be me. I'm a little nervous about doing the pyro sensor and drilling into the manifold, but hey, how else you gonna learn. Like the little engine said, " I think I can, I think I can"!
Got my 3 gauge set-up and my dp from Dennis. Now if I could just get someone to put them in! I guess that will be me. I'm a little nervous about doing the pyro sensor and drilling into the manifold, but hey, how else you gonna learn. Like the little engine said, " I think I can, I think I can"!
Cast iron taps pretty easy, no external lube required. I recommend drilling the hole with a letter Q drill at 0.332. Step the hole up, I like to put a 3/16 hole in first, then about 9/32, finish with the 0.332. Hold the drill still, wobbly holes are out of round and won't seal for chit. I put the tap right in the chuck of the drill and started it in a ways...most taps you want to pretty much bury the threads for proper fit on the thermocouple. Start it shallow though, leave 3-4 threads of the tap out of the manifold and see how it fits, turn the tap in a bit more as required. Diesel manor has a good support/ installation page on their web site.... refer to it with any questions.
Thanks guys. I printed the write-up from itp, and I'll go look at the one from diesel manor. Between the 2 I should be ok. Just being lazy and not ready to start this evening. I should be out there doing it though.
Congrats Dave!! It is nice when Mr. Brown shows up. I just installed my guages today. Actually drilling and tapping the manifold was very easy. Use sharp drill bits and take your time. Wear some kind of eye protection, good thing I did. Use Leo's steps and you'll be fine. I tapped mine by hand and used some cutting fluid, but that is just my preference. If you run into problems we're here for ya!
Thanks Jim. How long did it take? I'm looking at the pillar pod trying to figure out how it stays in place right now. I guess it goes over the factory one.
Thanks Jim. How long did it take? I'm looking at the pillar pod trying to figure out how it stays in place right now. I guess it goes over the factory one.
Line it up in place, no gauges in it. Drill a 3/16 hole in from the drivers door side near the top. Stick a christmes tree fastener in it. Drill a second hole in the same side near the bottom but above the dash. Stick another 3/16 christmas tree in it. Take a marker and mark on the factory panel where the gauge pods are.... you'll be drilling wiring access holes here. Remove both factory and gauge pillar as 1 unit.... align the edge of the windshield side and drill 2 more 3/16 holes for fasteners. remove the gauge pillar and drill your access holes. Reassemble when complete.
Just a little update here. Got the gauges and dp in. The boost gauge isn't movong so I guess I need to check the line. Everything else seems to be working. The trans temp didn't move for quite a while, but finally did when I pulled in the drive after about a 5 mile drive. The biggest difference I noticed with the dp was the trans shift points.
Did the boost line get kinked during install some where? If you have an air compressor you could check the line that way. Or remove the gauge and see if you feel any air coming out of the line when engine is under load.
What tunes did you get David? The first time I touched the pedal, I knew there was more power.
This really surprises me.
Me too Rick. I noticed a huge difference. Habeb even said "Back again smiling with that damn gold tooth showing.
Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
If you don't see a big difference in throttle response the connector may not be making good contact with all the PCM pins.
God point Robin the may be a trace of silicone still on the pcm. I scraped mine with my thumb nail until nothing would come off any more before I hit it with the scotchbrite. I uses rubbing alcohol to clean it after.
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