Yes guy it me the one with the 81 ford f-150 and painting outside any way. It is getting to cold to paint right now I was wondering how warm does it have to be to prime and is it ok to have it primed through winter so I can paint it in the spring if so what kind of primer should I us a sealer or a lycer primer please let me know I have it primed with spray can primer from advance auto parts will that even be ok if not do I hae to resand the whole truck please tell me no thanx.

 

You shouldn't prime or paint at less than 70F. You can apply an epoxy primer, which is waterproof and will be OK over winter. You'll have to first sand (and properly prepare - meaning smooth out) everything you want to prime with 120grit minimum. Most people then block that out and sand with 220, then reapply for a final block with 400wet. After that you can either seal it, then paint, or, if you haven't broke though anywhere, paint it straight away.

 

That's a long sentence.

 

And it looks like no one will answer until you clean up your punctuation and sentence structure

 

Don't do anything unless it 60 or above.

 

2k products (ones that are mixed with a hardener). at ;east most automotive refinishing products, depend on temperature for proper crosslinking. Like already mentioned, you want temps above 60 degrees, and what is most critical is the temperature of the part. Just because it is 60 degrees in the shop, doesn't mean the temp of the part is, if not in those temps long enough to warm up, or say readings near a concrete floor (heat rises). Epoxy I've heard are most critical temp, as some epoxy primers may actually go dormant if temp drops too low, and then never cure properly even later in acceptable temps. Some 2k products cure will slow down in cold temps, but continue if brought into warm enough temps.
If where you are painting, the temps are not high enough, maybe you could prime a part at a time, and use a radiant heater or something to get the part warm and then keep it warm after priming. You just need the temp of the part to stay warm enough for at least a few hours after spraying.

Epoxy primer is the only one that isn't somewhat porous, and will completely seal metal underneath from air and moisture.

Rattle can primer is most likely a lacquer primer. It will provide little to no protection to bare metal. Have already seen baremetal parts primed with lacquer begin rusting through the primer, just sitting in a humid shop, or awhile after it had gotten wet. Also lacquer will be a weak link if you do intend to use good 2k automotive products. If the intent is a long lasting job, I would remove the lacquer primer and start with good 2k primer foundation, epoxy primer foundation if you have baremetal or on an older vehicle before factory used the better materials they have today. Make sure you protect you cover your skin, protect your eyes, and wear an approved respirator when painting, even more so with 2k products. Isocyanates can enter you system through breathing, through your skin, and eyes (iso's are attracted to moisture). Isos can damage you organs and respiratory system, but really all paint chemicals and solvents can be hazardous, so be sure to protect yourself, even if many of us might have not properly before we knew better.