lead substitute
I wonder -- ATF does look somewhat like Marvel Mystery Oil, which can offer some benefits by depositing stuff on the valve seat, supposedly. My Dad always swore by MMO. I have used it also on soft seat heads. You can pour it in the tank or use it with a Marvel Mystery Oiler (which I use). The Oiler is an inverse oiler that increases the flow when increased load is placed on the engine.
Just a thought, anyway.
COMBUSTION CONTROLLING ADDITIVES (way long)
(note: one mistake I noted was calling Xylene "Zylene.")
Wikipedia also has a nice little write-up on the subject here:
Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
You can look the chemicals mentioned on Wikipedia. All of the octane boosters that actually work do so by increasing the A/F's resistance to knock. You'' note that many, like Toluene, Benzine, and Xylene are aromatics (i.e., they include a "Benzine ring" -- at least check out Benzine to see what that is if you aren't familiar), while others are variations of isomers of common hydrocarbons (MTBE), or ketones (MEK, methyl ethyl ketone).
The first link I listed mentions Moroso Octane Booster, which used MMT and was quite effective. I don't know if it is available anymore. If you do look up the chemicals mentioned, you will note that most of them are quite nasty and carcinogenic. There may be something to be said for going to the airport every now and then.
However, 9.2 is not very high and remember that this is the rated ratio -- what the real ratio is is often quite less. You will also loose some ratio by running a thick composition gasket as opposed to the factory steel shim gasket, and the production tolerance of the block regarding deck height will also work against achieving the factory spec.
All this may mean that you don't have to worry so much about the matter. But considering how much you spend on additives will just go up in smoke, it says a lot for spending some money up front to have the block decked, and getting the quench in the chamber to work like it is supposed to do. This might well be the gift to yourself that keeps on giving.
Back to the first write up, I believe that it is the phosphorus that he mentions that is the ingredient in Marvel Mystery Oil that is supposed to reduce valve seat recession.
Anyhow, I would guess that if you run close to having a problem, a water injection unit or even being a tiny bit more modest in your advance setting will be more cost effective than these cures that are mentioned.
As to what they are selling in WalMart and what it might contain, well, it might work or it might be snake oil, just like many of the oil additives on the market.
I found the first author's mention of triptane to be interesting. Right after WW2, one of the unlimited aircraft racers got hold of an F2G Corsair and ran it on Tripane in air races as a "Secret weapon." The F2G Corsair was a variant of the normal F4U Corsair which substituted the massive 28 cylinder R4360 Wright radial (that's 4360 cu in!) found in B50 and B36 bombers for the standard R2800 Pratt and Whitney 18 cylinder radial (that's 2800 cu in).
The standard R2800 was set up with dual stage supercharging to offer performance from "the deck" on up to high altitude, while the R4360 installation used a simple single stage supercharger and made up the difference with sheer displacement. It lost a lot of power at high altitude, but the F2G was intended to be a kamikaze interceptor for our carrier fleets in WW2, and since kamikazes were a low altitude threat, the R4360 installation did not suffer at the altitudes the F2G was intended to operated at.
Since air races take place at low altitude (it's a bit hard to run a spectator sport at 30,000 ft), the F2G seemed like the ideal solution.
Here's a link on that, if you are into digressions:
F2G Corsair - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
With a mild Isky E-4 installed and made milder with 1.43 rockers, plus a 3.00 rear end, there is some poss. of detonation. Dynamic compression calculates fairly high, though I forget the number. The risk may be lessened by the E-10 we are forced to run.
Milling: .028 off deck for .004 in hole piston, .036 off head for 67 cc chamber, .046 off intake flange side of heads for intake manifold match.
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I am thinking back in the "old days," back in the 60s, when regular was IIRC 91-92 RON and premium was 94-95 RON. Back then, I know Olds made regular fuel engines with 9:1 and I think that there were a few others, as well.
Our octane ratings are not as high, of course, but they are calculated (RON + MON)/2.
However, the actual production engine would not be right at 9:1, either.
Sounds like you might be close. But in your favor, the Y chamber has lots of quench and combustion must be fairly efficient, since the Y doesn't require excessive advance. Also, the way the ports are laid out promotes pretty even distribution to all cylinders, so you don't have to worry so much about compensating for that issue.
As you note, your available fuel might buy you some room, too, but I would think that being a hair less aggressive with timing might be enough to solve any problems, if they come up.
I hope you will let us know what you end up finding.
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