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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by triskit16
Not to hijack but...

I just tried the Mobil 1 brand filter for the first time EVER after using nothing but Motorcraft....it was on sale for like 7.99 and its the 1st time Ive ever had a dry, slippery free filter when checking on it after install.
same here! ive been trying different filters with my uoa's and this time i put on a fleetguard and i had to torque that sucker HARD to get it to quit seeping but the mobil 1 sealed up nice without the extra umf...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by big poppa pump
Also what i do is clean the mating surface where the filter screws up too, helps for a dirt and crud free seal. Always done it...Also take it out after changing for a nice drive, get her up to temps to burn up any condensation that might be in there for that long of time sitting.
It seems to be a clean surface, no nicks or crud. Just seems to be the way it is.

I'll look into the Mobil 1 filters.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
I also crack the oil filter loose and then poke a hole in the bottom to drain the oil out of it. You'll be surprised on how much oil is in that filter and how heavy it can get. But, loosen it first then poke, just in case of the worst case scenario of it being on there too tight.
Learned this the hard way today during the first oil change! Didn't know about the oil cooler being 'uphill' of the filter! Will have to fashion a poker for the next one.

Side note, no leaking around the NAPA filter I put in....Will check in the morning again though. Used Rotella Dino 15x-40. Previous owner used that year round with no problems...Same area north of Boston, MA
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
It seems to be a clean surface, no nicks or crud. Just seems to be the way it is.

I'll look into the Mobil 1 filters.
I just hit it with a old cotton sock around the rim and inside, might be overkill but thats what i do. Figured i'd mention it being his ride was sitting a while.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:54 PM
  #20  
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where are u guys getting your MObile 1 filters at and whats the part number?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:01 PM
  #21  
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got mine at autozone....
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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I was in for 10 days and had about 28 days worth of stuff to do. I hit a NAPA for the filter and some other items and never got as far as WM, so paid whatever NAPA were charging for two 5 gall buckets. Good point on the temp, thx.

David.


Originally Posted by clintbonnie
Be sure the the engine is up to temperature before changing the oil.. Did you check with Walmart for the Rotella ? It is usually a bit cheaper..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 10:21 AM
  #23  
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OK, thanks for that. I don't have a pump that isn't still packed away in a container so think I'll just do a straight change, followed by another one in 1-2k. If the syphoning takes an extra quart but there are still two in the system, it doesn't seem like it's worth the extra effort to me, but then maybe I'm lazy??? lol.

Another question that brings to mind, how many quarts should it take if you discount that left in the HP system AND the quart or two you put into the filter? I always figgered between 14 and 15 quarts, but does that include those, or exclude them? I know the easy way is to check the dippy but just wondering, enquiring cells and all....

Cheers, David.


Originally Posted by Izzy351
The HPOP reservoir holds about a quart, David. There is small hex plug on the top of the reservoir that you can stick a tube into to siphon or suck out with a hand pump. I've done it once, and the only time I'd do it again is if I was in your situation. It's really easy, so think about doing it.

There are several here that run 5W-40 syn in the winter and 15W-40 syn or dino in the summer. You can switch -- with today's seal materials and more advanced syn technology, it's not a big deal anymore.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 10:38 AM
  #24  
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I started to think I'm going to change to synth after I use up this dino I just bought, but my seasons are hot and hotter, so don't have to worry about cold, almost EVER.
Now you have me wondering, why the dino in the summer? What are the benefits of dino vs. synth, considering I am in a hot climate pretty much year round?

Thanks again for answers, David.


Originally Posted by nlemerise
I'm one of those that change back and forth from dino to syn with the seasons (syn in the winter and dino in the summer). Been doing it a long time and concur with Senor Izzy .
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #25  
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Yeh, will do. I have plenty of Sunday (Holy) socks lying around.....FWIW, it sat and then I shipped it almost a year ago and have driven it since. At this point I think I just delayed the change s long the oil has started to break down but we'll see. I have to change outside and today is the firstdry day since i returned from my trip so if I can only get out and start it......

Cheers, David.


Originally Posted by big poppa pump
I just hit it with a old cotton sock around the rim and inside, might be overkill but thats what i do. Figured i'd mention it being his ride was sitting a while.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 05:26 AM
  #26  
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Fun facts, Most of last year I paid $16 and change for Rotella 5w-40 sythn oil at Wm, This year the same gallon is over 22. But she is worth it! Just wanta keep her happy!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #27  
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I have another basic question that I'm at a loss on. What exactly is the oil capacity of the 7.3? I found 14 qts in the manual that came with the truck and a few places online. I've also just come across 15 qts in the Ford shop manual link that someone posted. I just changed the oil/filter and added a total of 14 qts between the block and filter...dipstick reads fine.

What's the correct capacity here?

From the Ford Shop Manual:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Oil Pump, Oil Cooler and Oil Capacity </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle colSpan=2>Engine at Normal Operating Temperature</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle colSpan=2>Engine Oil Capacity</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle rowSpan=3>Oil Pump Drive Gear Radial Clearance</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle rowSpan=3>Oil Pump Drive Gear End Clearance</TH></TR><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle colSpan=2>Oil Pump Pressures</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle rowSpan=2>Liters</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle rowSpan=2>U.S. Qts.</TH></TR><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Curb Idle</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>3,300 rpm</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle>69 kPa (10 psi)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>276-482 kPa
(40-70 psi)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>12.3</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>13.0<SUP>a</SUP> </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>0.71-0.81 mm
(0.028-0.032 in)</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>0.02-0.08 mm
(0.001-0.003 in)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<SUP>a</SUP> Add 2 U.S. quarts (1.9 liters) when installing a new oil filter. Install a new FL-1995 filter.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:39 PM
  #28  
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Sorry...if it makes a difference it's a '99 F350
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:39 AM
  #29  
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Bump.

I'm still confused.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #30  
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Great answer for a 'basic' question. Poked the filter, and it helped a lot. Liked the idea of wiping down the mating surfaces also......got rid of a coupla old socks in the process.

Report after the oil change is good; The roughness after start seems to have completely gone away. Got a new fuel filter but don't want to spoil her all at once, will wait 'till next weekend for that. Got some new questions in mind for y'all too! Tahnks again for the replies.

Cheers, David.
99.5PSD, CC, SB, 2WD, 6637, batt box and muffler delete.

Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
David, you are welcome. Getter done and report back.

I also crack the oil filter loose and then poke a hole in the bottom to drain the oil out of it. You'll be surprised on how much oil is in that filter and how heavy it can get. But, loosen it first then poke, just in case of the worst case scenario of it being on there too tight.
 
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