SD Winter Storage
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SD Winter Storage
Looking for advice on how best to store my 2002 F250 5.4, 6 speed over the next 6 months (winter). I live in the Pacific Northwest where the winter weather is mild but WET. It will be stored "unsheltered" Changing the oil is a given but after that I'm wondering.....
Should I remove the battery or leave in and fire it up every so often (every month, two months or?).
I'm going to block it up to take the weight off the springs so it won't be movable but when it comes time to put it back on the road are there any precautions I should take?
I will fill the gas tank and add a gas preservative.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Should I remove the battery or leave in and fire it up every so often (every month, two months or?).
I'm going to block it up to take the weight off the springs so it won't be movable but when it comes time to put it back on the road are there any precautions I should take?
I will fill the gas tank and add a gas preservative.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 2
From: Spring Lake
Why would you store a SD for the winter? Isn't that when they come out of hibernation because you can't ride the bike or drive the Trans Am?
Plus gas is getting cheap, this winter will be a whole new driving experience
Anyhow, if you are gonna store it make sure to add fuel stabilizer, unhook battery, don't start it up while it's sitting unless you plan to run it for at least an hour because of the condensation that builds up in the crank case. I would also make sure there is adequate di-electric grease in all your COP's and put a solid coat of carnauba wax on your paint.
Also, if you are putting a cover on it make sure it is securely fastened, I've seen cheap ones abraid paint pretty good from wind flapping. If no cover, I would say put a sun shield in the window to offset sun fading. If it has a soft tonneau put the UV protection treatment on that too.
If you are going to change the oil, I've always heard do it when the beast comes out of hibernation, not before.
Good luck!
Plus gas is getting cheap, this winter will be a whole new driving experience
Anyhow, if you are gonna store it make sure to add fuel stabilizer, unhook battery, don't start it up while it's sitting unless you plan to run it for at least an hour because of the condensation that builds up in the crank case. I would also make sure there is adequate di-electric grease in all your COP's and put a solid coat of carnauba wax on your paint.
Also, if you are putting a cover on it make sure it is securely fastened, I've seen cheap ones abraid paint pretty good from wind flapping. If no cover, I would say put a sun shield in the window to offset sun fading. If it has a soft tonneau put the UV protection treatment on that too.
If you are going to change the oil, I've always heard do it when the beast comes out of hibernation, not before.
Good luck!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 93
From: VA/NH
Wash it and give it a real good coat or two of wax. Wheels too. Stabil in the fuel and you should be good to go. If it's going to be stored and not touched for six months, I'd pull the battery and keep it inside on a battery tender. Not a trickle charger...
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
I guess is more along the lines of a toy-tower, used mostly in the summer?
Search some older threads, there was a good discussion on using marine fogging oil in gas engines that are going to sit in wet environments for a long time.
When you drop it off the blocks six months from now, check your tires pretty carefully before you pump them back up to the max, even the stems and vavle cores.
Search some older threads, there was a good discussion on using marine fogging oil in gas engines that are going to sit in wet environments for a long time.
When you drop it off the blocks six months from now, check your tires pretty carefully before you pump them back up to the max, even the stems and vavle cores.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Spring Lake
After thinking about it, I don't know if there is any way to shut off fuel or ignition, but on older motors you should always crank them over several times before you let it fire just to get the oil circulating again before it runs.
I don't know if this is important on newer motors or not?
I don't know if this is important on newer motors or not?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: W. Wisc
You can always trip the fuel cutoff switch. Under the dash in my F250. I used to do this in my SHO to drain out fuel pressure before changing the fuel filter. Run engine, whack the cutoff switch gently with your hand so it pops, engine dies in a second or 2. Fuel pressure relieved. Or you can just unplug the electrical connector to it. Either way. In this case, trip the switch before fogging but after you have any need to start it up again.
-Dave
-Dave
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
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Change the oil right before you store it.
I'd disconnect the battery.
If you want to crank the engine over a little to get oil up to the cams before it starts, pull the fuel pump fuse.
As for fogging the motor, that's a LOT of work - you basically spray fogging oil into the intake as it runs until it chokes and dies. Then, you are stuck changing or cleaning the plugs, AND - it'll probably ruin the catalytic converter!
6 months isn't too long. But, if you're going to be around, I'd be more likely to start the engine and let it run for 1/2 hour or so to get it really nice and warm, and make sure the cylinders (and cams and valves/guides) don't get too dry and rust.
I'd disconnect the battery.
If you want to crank the engine over a little to get oil up to the cams before it starts, pull the fuel pump fuse.
As for fogging the motor, that's a LOT of work - you basically spray fogging oil into the intake as it runs until it chokes and dies. Then, you are stuck changing or cleaning the plugs, AND - it'll probably ruin the catalytic converter!
6 months isn't too long. But, if you're going to be around, I'd be more likely to start the engine and let it run for 1/2 hour or so to get it really nice and warm, and make sure the cylinders (and cams and valves/guides) don't get too dry and rust.
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Why would you store a SD for the winter? Isn't that when they come out of hibernation because you can't ride the bike or drive the Trans Am?
Plus gas is getting cheap, this winter will be a whole new driving experience
Anyhow, if you are gonna store it make sure to add fuel stabilizer, unhook battery, don't start it up while it's sitting unless you plan to run it for at least an hour because of the condensation that builds up in the crank case. I would also make sure there is adequate di-electric grease in all your COP's and put a solid coat of carnauba wax on your paint.
Also, if you are putting a cover on it make sure it is securely fastened, I've seen cheap ones abraid paint pretty good from wind flapping. If no cover, I would say put a sun shield in the window to offset sun fading. If it has a soft tonneau put the UV protection treatment on that too.
If you are going to change the oil, I've always heard do it when the beast comes out of hibernation, not before.
Good luck!
Plus gas is getting cheap, this winter will be a whole new driving experience
Anyhow, if you are gonna store it make sure to add fuel stabilizer, unhook battery, don't start it up while it's sitting unless you plan to run it for at least an hour because of the condensation that builds up in the crank case. I would also make sure there is adequate di-electric grease in all your COP's and put a solid coat of carnauba wax on your paint.
Also, if you are putting a cover on it make sure it is securely fastened, I've seen cheap ones abraid paint pretty good from wind flapping. If no cover, I would say put a sun shield in the window to offset sun fading. If it has a soft tonneau put the UV protection treatment on that too.
If you are going to change the oil, I've always heard do it when the beast comes out of hibernation, not before.
Good luck!
Trans AM? not......how about an '89 5.0 LX factory ordered the way I wanted it. The SD goes to bed this winter because it's "working days" are over (like me). Just needed for goiong to my favorite trout lake in the spring and fall.
Thread Starter
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Change the oil right before you store it.
I'd disconnect the battery.
If you want to crank the engine over a little to get oil up to the cams before it starts, pull the fuel pump fuse.
As for fogging the motor, that's a LOT of work - you basically spray fogging oil into the intake as it runs until it chokes and dies. Then, you are stuck changing or cleaning the plugs, AND - it'll probably ruin the catalytic converter!
6 months isn't too long. But, if you're going to be around, I'd be more likely to start the engine and let it run for 1/2 hour or so to get it really nice and warm, and make sure the cylinders (and cams and valves/guides) don't get too dry and rust.
I'd disconnect the battery.
If you want to crank the engine over a little to get oil up to the cams before it starts, pull the fuel pump fuse.
As for fogging the motor, that's a LOT of work - you basically spray fogging oil into the intake as it runs until it chokes and dies. Then, you are stuck changing or cleaning the plugs, AND - it'll probably ruin the catalytic converter!
6 months isn't too long. But, if you're going to be around, I'd be more likely to start the engine and let it run for 1/2 hour or so to get it really nice and warm, and make sure the cylinders (and cams and valves/guides) don't get too dry and rust.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
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From: Spring Lake
I have been partial to F-bodies over Fox Body mustangs for a while, granted I've had my fair share of fun in the 'stangs. '91 Camaro RS, '92 Camaro RS, '85 Iroc, and now that all them cars are gone 
I got me a '78 Trans Am very similar to a bandit but metallic burgandy and no t-tops. Still, no car is a comfy as a SD and I'm just used to it coming out of it's hibernation for winter time