Alright well I just bought a 85 bronco w/ 351w and C6(I believe) truck has been sitting in a field and not started for about 2 years, I go to start the truck and it fires right up, but runs like crap.. bad fuel was my guess and probably carb issues. It even drove onto the trailer!

1st issue:
1411 Edelbrock carb on stock 4bbl intake manifold. I cannot get the damn thing to run, turns and turns sounds like it wants to start but no go. vacuum advance hooked in properly and the big one runs to valve cover, correct? I plugged the right side one. I have cleared all the bad fuel as well. The fuel pump is brand new. I need help I've been at this for 3 days and still can't get it. I have tried with and without egr spacer and same thing. My 2nd issue may pertain to this one as well.

2nd issue:
Smog pump is disconnected(no belt), the smog pump check valves are in pieces and as far as im concered I'd like to get rid of it completely considering we have no emissions laws in colorado right now. What can I remove? I am thinking this is part of the issue with why it will not run? What needs to be pulled and what need to be plugged? Can I remove the egr BS as well?

I'm sorry this is so long but I am at ends wit and cant figure it out, please help. I will check frequently so please ask me anything!

 

Ignore the smog equipment for now it won't prevent the motor from starting. What compression do you get on all cylinders? Are you getting spark on all plugs?

 

I will check cylinder pressure tomm to be sure, and I am getting spark on all plugs, properly gapped and really clean. I worked on it all day today swapping diff carbs blah blah blah came out with same outcome. The bronco acts exactly the same with or without fuel line, chugs, chugs, acts like it wants to start but doesn't . What are symptoms of "bad" intake manifold? I keep changing stuff but run into same symtoms, something I'm not checking?

 

Try advancing the distributor a little, maybe the timing is retarded to far.

 

Vacuum leak? Possibly one of the smog fittings on the intake.

 

Hm Hm I have tried advancing the distributer while cranking and it does absolutly nothing.. I have been thinking vacuum leak but as long as I plug it, it should start but run like crap right? Do I need a sqaure bore intake manifold for a edelbrock carb? Or can I bolt to the stock manifold(what I've been trying)

 

plugs gas fouled?

 

I checked the plugs to make sure they weren't fowled and the checked out pretty good, didnt look to bad for not being changed probably in about 7 years. I think I'm gonna have to run through the ingition system and check everything. Anyone ever heard of a resistor bypass line? I just heard it could make a vehicle not start like my case.

 

Ok went through just about every ignition wire... no cracks and look in good working order. I went out today and replaced ignition module, and ignition coil. Still same result turns but no start.. I checked spark on all wires and all is well. Any advice would help.

 

Have you tried pouring a little fresh gas in the carburetor THEN SETTING THE GAS CAN AWAY FROM THE TRUCK, then trying to start it. If it would cough and run for a few seconds, you could assume the ignition okay and move onto the fuel system and possibly a cam/ignition timing issue.

What was the result of your compression test?

 

I actually couldn't find my compression guage, so I have not done that yet.. but there was a little hope today! I got a little run out of it, but crazy thing is that the only way it will start is if I hold the coil wire off the ignition coil or the distributor either way it works. First thing I did was replace the coil wire and same thing.. I tried two diff wires and two diff coils(both coils tested working w/ ohmmeter). I have also noticed smell of gas in my oil.. what causes this? I'm gonna try and replace the distributor, and intake manifold... but more and more money.. poof!

 

Im wondering about a vacuum leak also. Change the oil. Sounds like you are getting raw gas in the crankcase.

 

Sorry to be obvious but have you checked the firing order is set correctly with the dizzy ends? Who knows if it sat in a field what cam it has, I would test it with 302 and 351W firing order.

Also you say it fired for a few seconds without a coil hooked up?

Check to be sure the engine is grounded to the frame.

 

Inside the dizzy on vehicles with DuraSpark is a stator, aka pickup coil.

When it fails, it manifests the same symptoms of a failed ignition module.

~ 1985 Bronco 351W ~

D4PZ12A112A .. Stator Assy (Motorcraft DU1A) ~ Use w/o EEC.

E8PZ12A112A .. Stator Assy (Motorcraft DU30C) ~ Use w/EEC IV.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
D7AZ12250A .. Ignition Coil Resistor Assy. (Motorcraft DY213)

49" long / Color coded Red with Green Stripes / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.

This same resistor was used from 1973 thru 1989 on cars, F Series trucks, Bronco's & Econolines.

 

Well I know I have some vacuum leaks, when it started it blew some smoke from a little pipe on the passanger side of the block and others from the manifold. Yeah I have checked the firing order and its all good. Now the stator assy what does that look like, and where is it located? If I replace the dissy will it repair the problem? I just installed a new ignition module and coi.