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air intake question

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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 06:02 PM
  #1  
F250Growler's Avatar
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air intake question

hi everyone, my friend has a newer 4x4 ranger.. he wants to put a air intake system together on it.. I know that the piping going into the intake is 3"s.. Which air filter is going to have a 3" opening.. I am trying to find one that is just like a 6637 air filter, but smaller in proportoin..

I am not looking to get ripped off by AFE or K&N..

This is the set up i put on my truck, and its the same idea/set up we want to put on his, just smaller.


If anyone can hit the nail on the head dead on.. what part number is the filter on Fleetfilter.com?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 11:36 PM
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Ok, first off, what you are showing, many people have already tried. Your factory intake is what is known as a cold air intake. The picture of what you are showing us is what we refer to as a hot air intake. Hot air is less dense, plus it causes the computer to reduce ignition timing, so you actually loose power.

My advice, is to buy a complete pre-made intake that draws in cold air like the factory unit. AFE units are reasonably priced, and I highly recommend the ProDryS filters. Volant makes some good ones too. You will be happier with the results if you do it right.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 04:37 AM
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There's nothing on your current setup to prevent heat soak, no housings, no heat sheilds. AEM and AFE spend alot of time and money on R&D to get it right. You get what you pay for. All your going to do is suck in heat, loose power and have a cool whistle. As Bear River sugest, get a dryflow filter that doesn't require oil, like from AEM, AFE or VOLANT.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Wondering if you two can find an air intake that uses a housing for the filter for a 96 Ranger with a 2.3L 2x4 manual? I could only find a K&N and I'd rather not use one of those on my truck. My bike however, is a different story.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Are you looking for a drop in filter that uses the stock intake, or a complete intake. Not many companies make stuff for older trucks.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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I'm looking to replace the existing intake tube, and the airbox with a setup that has wider bends and less restrictions. I may just use exhaust tubing, intercooler boots, and something like the 6637, but put a shield behind it.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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I would agree with fewer restrictions, but sometime larger tubing can rob power. On my '90 B2600i, I gained power where I needed it by using a smaller intake. The factory intake had a 3" flexible rubber hose, a resonator assembly, and a metal tube that was about 2.5". I replaced it with an intake that was 2.25" throughout. I gained enough power that this same truck, which could not maintain the freeway speed without dropping down a gear going up a local grade on our freeway, can now accelerate up the same grade in 5th gear with a half ton load in it. I need to get better sheild on my intake. I has really good power on the freeway, and when it is first started up, but once it warms up, it is really slow in traffic due to heat soak. In my case, there are no commercially available intake kits, so I was stuck with building my own. I had to build my own because I broke the factory resonator assembly, and it was cheaper to build my own intake than to buy a replacement from Mazda.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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Try to place the filter as close to the air opening as you can to draw in as much fresh air as possible. All tubes will generate heat soak to a degree, some more than others. They sell a shinny silver wrap that reflects heat, I used it on my old K&N setup, I wrapped the tube with it. Also build a heat sheild around the filter so the in comming fresh air is boxed around the filter.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:13 AM
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I've got a 97 ranger 2.3 w/ 5spd and 2wd.

I've read that replacing the air muffler in the intake with a straight pipe will let the engine breath better.

But based on what I've read here, is that the wrong idea? I used a piece of steel exhaust pipe, it's just a little bigger than the rubber it fits into. I had to heat up the rubber to stretch it around the tube.

Sorry for the hijack, but I'm not convinced my ranger is operating as efficiently as it should. low 20's for mpg, and I drive conservatively. And it could definitely use more low end power.

What do you guys think?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Well, I have black ceramic based paint that could be used on the metal portion of the tubing.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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Unless the motor is being built I would leave the air box alone, I don't think there's too much gain.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wendell borrow
Try to place the filter as close to the air opening as you can to draw in as much fresh air as possible. All tubes will generate heat soak to a degree, some more than others. They sell a shinny silver wrap that reflects heat, I used it on my old K&N setup, I wrapped the tube with it. Also build a heat shield around the filter so the in coming fresh air is boxed around the filter.
Something like this?


This is done on a stock intake on my Ranger.I also run a K&H drop in Air filter.With the 2,I gained 1 mile to the gallon an the truck runs about 5* cooler then it did before.The only thing that I have notice to the bad,is when it is cold outside the truck runs at hi idle longer.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Don't know why it wouldn't allow me to edit my post...

I think I'll do a custom setup with the tubes painted with the ceramic black.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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Thats the problem with that silver wrap, makes it look like a part of the space shuttle or something ha ha. However, reflecting the heat is the name of the game.
 
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