I've got functioning headlights, front park lights, and tail lights. I've been trying to read old threads to answer my questions, but I haven't found everything. I do not have brake lights or turn signals. I think there is a good chance that I need a new turn signal switch, but there are other things that concern me. I used a test light to see if I even had power to the switch. Neither with the ignition in the off or on position do I have any power coming through either wire that connects to the switch on the m/c. Is this the beginning of my problem? It is very intimidating to look under the dash, and I'm not bashful to say that I really have no idea what I'm doing. Truth is, I really want to learn. Now, my fuses are good. I am curious as to which fuse would be for the brake light situation I am describing. Is it normal for the fuse block to NOT have the cigar lighter fuse or fuse holder in a bone stock 65? Because mine doesn't. Last question. Which fuse belongs to what on the fuse block?

please help a 24 year old wishing he had a 60 year old's knowledge.
Thanks,
SKY

65 f100 stepside
240
all original

 

SKY, I'll try to help. 1st ign. sw on. for brake light one of the wires at the master cylinder under the hood should be hot, verify

Using a test light plug the hot wire back in at the MC and have someone depress the brake pedal the opposing terminal should light (circuit good at MC)

Now there is a flasher under the dash that can go bad that should run the front even if there is a problem at the back. Should you buy one get heavy duty.

That is enough confusion to get started with, try that and report back.

The brake and turn signal share the same wire to the rear, get it flashing and the brakes should work also.

There are three wires going to the rear one for tail and one each for left and right brake and turn.



John

 

alright john. here we go. i double checked the wires that plug into the master cylinder and one is hot! so that's good i guess. unfortunately i didn't have anyone to push the pedal in while i held the test light, (to see if the switch is good, which it is a new switch..) so i'll have to report back on that one. question - how exactly do i locate this "flasher" i've heard it referred to in other posts, and i just need a little more of a "flashers for dummies" explanation. i work from 8 to 8 tomorrow, so ill get back on it tomorrow night. thanks.

 

The flasher is a round metal can thing (I think there's even a clip that holds it) up under the dash. It will have two prongs on it that a plug attaches to. Same deal as the brake switch...one wire will be 'hot' with the key on (and the signal lever flipped either direction). It's always a power in/power out situation with most of this stuff. The flasher and the brake lite switch control the flow of power to the other side. So what you do, in effect, is ensure you have juice flowing in from 'upstream' (battery side) through the control device and then downstream to the lights.

Electrical stuff can seem daunting, but it really isn't hard once you learn the basic procedure. Our trucks do have a nest of wires that appear quite random, but don't focus on the wires so much as what they attach to.

 

Here is a photo link of one from a parts house website NAPAONLINE®

If you don't have anyone to help see if you can find a short piece of house wire and bend (double back) the end so that you can insert it into each of the wires at the MC and they stay. This should allow the current to bypass the MC switch and go directly to the rear. Don't let any exposed wire touch any metal as it will short out and blow the fuse. You can make it dangle or lay it on a rag.

Also on the drivers side, rear, find the wires from the tail light and follow them to a factory connector. Just beyond the connector the wires split left and right, so it should be easy to find.

There are three wires in this group, 1-left turn and brake, 2- tail light, 3- right turn and brake. Should there not be any current at that junction start inspecting the wire moving towards the front of the truck.

By pulling the light switch one click to the park light position you should have current for the tail lights.

I'll try to remember to check tonight for an update from you.

Doing the things that I have suggested don't cost money but will allow you to trouble shoot the problem. You could have to buy an expensive switch, but you will know by elimination that you do.


John

 

When I get back home tonight I will check more wires and check the flasher.

QUESTION : the tail light on the right side was very dim. I realized it probably wasn't grounded well, so I removed the tail light assembly and bracket. I sanded them down along with the bed post where the bracket attaches and put new bolts in. It shines alot brighter, and I could live with it, but still not as bright as the other side.

Just wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks to get this (and anything else i find) grounded to the max.

Thanks,
SKY

 

I have spent half of my day at work, (don't worry I just answer phones..and no one is calling reading posts and looking at the wiring diagram from a '64. It looks like it's almost the exact same as my '65. Is that right? I think I've got a better handle on this electrical thing in my head......now on to the real thing when I get home.....

few more questions:

Do I get the "heavy duty" flasher at NAPA? Where is my best bet? (I'm poor, but will pay for quality)

I saw that numberdummy recommends a turn signal switch from ftepartsguy.com

Does that come with everything I need? (wires, switch, cam)

I have removed the steering wheel to replace the shift collar recently. I noticed that the cam was broken. I could not for the life of me get the turn signal lever out. PLEASE CONFIRM THAT IT SCREWS OUT! ('65 f100 3 spd) It will not budge.

thanks all

 

You can get the flasher at napa, they arn' very expensive. I got my turn signal switch from NPD, and it came with everything, the problem i had was i went with the cheapest and ended up having to modify it to work, so you get what you pay for. And yes the turn signal lever unscrews.

 

..........

 

Dirty contacts are a huge part of non burning bulbs, clean the contacts and ground for better working lights.

I would get a HD flasher at your favorite parts house, I used NAPA because that had a photo that I could use.

You have had the wheel off....... You might not have something in there working. Yes the shift lever screws out, lefty lucy.


John

 

Wow. I started messin with things tonight again. I feel like I should start a new thread. Here's the new situation.

I got the turn signal lever out it was just super gummed up.

right side - tail light, brake light, blinker OK they are working!

left side - tail light, blinker OK NO BRAKE LIGHT (weird?)
also...i bought repro. tail light assemblies, because the right one was all jacked up and I just wanted two new ones. with the "new" tail light, the left side has the "brake light/blinker" filament always on! that's why it was brighter (as stated previously in the post). So I put the old one back on, and it works correctly, lighting the correct filament. I am guessing that the aftermarket assembly is messed up.

What do you think? bad tail light assembly? send it back?

Still...I have no brake light on the left side. front blinkers do not turn on. and none of the blinkers flash. Is that just because I need a new flasher relay?? I hope so.

Thanks for reading

SKY

 

I read a few other posts and realized that the wires were switched to my "new" tail light assembly. I switched them and now they control the right filaments. Still no brake light on the left side, no blinkers in front. Gettin close though!

 

I love talking to myself online...really helps me get things straight in my head.

Right front turn signal does come on. left front turn signal does not come on. To be sure that I knew what was going on, I used my test light again.

The park lights in front do not run on power supplied by the turn signal switch when the **** is pulled out half way.. CORRECT? (lights are on, but White-blue and green-white have no current from column)


with right blinker on, white-blue has current. excellent.

with left blinker on, rear blinker works, front (green-white) has no current.

I must conclude that this is a problem in the turn signal switch. CORRECT?


with left blinker on, orange wire (left rear brake/turn) has current.

with brake pushed in, orange wire has NO current. green wire(right rear brake/turn) has current.

This also leads me to believe that the problem lies in the turn signal switch. CORRECT?

It's amazing what one diagram, a test light, a few helpful hints, and alot of time to think can accomplish.

Please confirm that the problem lies in the turn signal switch.

Thanks everybody,

SKY

 

I would conclude you are probably right.
My truck has a non-working RF turn signal but the park lamp function works. I'm pretty much in the same place, thinking it's the t/s switch. Which requires taking the column apart, which I don't look forward to.
Replace the cancelling cam while you're in there as they get brittle with age and the cams snap off.
Also note the park lamps in the front go off when the headlights are turned on. That one stumps a lot of people. That's the way they are supposed to work.
Heavy Duty turn signal flashers, btw, are for increased current draw such as when you tow a trailer and have to activate two sets of lights. That's why you will see trailers with really weak turn signals...the flasher ain't up to the task. You don't need one for your truck, the regular one will work fine unless you ever plan to tow with it.

 

Sky, I agree with Dwight, and believe you now need to look at the t/s switch.

You need to have a basic understanding of how the system works and I think you have some of that. When I upgraded to power steering and installed the 76 column I had to find the power, horn, and ground wires, then figure the 4 corners out. I also had to eliminate the 4 way flasher switch in the column.

Lucky for me, armed with a test light I had it figured out in about an hour.


John