looks like i might be buying injectors.what does everyone recomend aftermarket higher horsepower or going back stock?

 

If you go with bigger sticks you will need the tuning to go with it. You might also need to upgrade your turbo and more depending upon how big you go.

 

i found some 40 and 70 horse injectors for 1520 is that a good deal?would anything have to be done with the turbo for the 70 horse i was going to go with the spartan tunes anyway i have and edge now but thought about switching

 

What's the flow of those injectors? Mine are 150mm^3 and mine cost less then 1500 from Spartan. There are some other things that you are going to want to do with those new injectors as insurance to help them last longer and just because you need to do the supporting mod to help the truck out.

1. A/M fuel pump- with my injectors 2 months and the stock pump crapped out on me. Install an in cab fuel psi gauge to help let you know when this happens or if something is going on with your a/m fuel pump as well.

2. Fuel Regulated Return - to help with the dead-heading of the injectors. Good insurance even for stock sticks, but for sure needing with modified sticks as your commanding more fuel, imagine how starved those bigger injectors are going to be with the dead-heading when even stock ones have a problem.

3. Turbo - this really depends on how big you go with the sticks and what your using your truck for. Mine you could keep stock turbo and be fine. I upgraded for a variety of reasons that may or may not apply to you as well.

How big you go with your injectors depends on a few things. The biggest one is what is your goal, just something with barely street manners or do you want to be able to tow with it?

If you just want something streetable then you can go up to stage III injectors(205mm^3) and a 71mm non-vgt turbo. I would highly suggest avoiding towing with this setup, strictly street use period.

If you wanting to still tow then don't go past stage II injectors(180mm^3) and I wouldn't go higher then a 64mm non-vgt turbo(what I use), however depending on what loads you haul and what type of loads they are you may have some wiggle room there, but not much.

Also mods that you might consider doing are(if you haven't done them already):

Headstuds

Fluidampner(since your moving the powerband higher in the rpms)

Headgaskets(if you go for max. streetable hp, you can use stock ones if you stick with the towing setup, I still have stock gaskets on)

I can suggest other things, but I need to know a little more about what your wanting to do with it before I suggest others, but what I have mentioned so far are things that you will seriously should consider(some of which I would consider musts because eventually you'll have to do them anyway, I did) if you decided to go the route of more serious engine modifications.

 

Im not planning on going extreme with the truck its mainly just driven on the street and rarely gets run hard but i like the idea of the power when i want it.I do tow withe truck between my boat and my camper the camper weighs about 6000 pounds though it rarely gets towed.I tjust thought if i was going to tear ths thing apart i should do all of the injectors instead of 1 or 2.And i thought abou the higher horse being that there virtually the same price.I just priced them at the dealer and they quoted me 235 a piece my cost not even retail.Pensacola diesel has the others on ebay for 1520.what do you think? Ireally dont want to get into the turbo and what not though i did think about just doing the headstuds while i was already half way there.

 

This is a tough one. Giving what your wanting to do, either the tow injectors that I have, or stage Is would be good for you and you could possible tune then down enough for your dd tunes in order to help prolong the life of your stock pump. I would just highly suggest the RR kit and the fuel pump. Now if your doing the studs, more then likely the shop you go to won't charge you labor for the injectors, RR kit, and the pump since they are doing the labor for the studs(they shouldn't anyway, if they do, then I would be leary about how that shop charges). I just wouldn't mess with bigger injectors if for some reason you can't do what I would consider bare minimum(headstuds, RR kit and fuel pump) as well. Turbo if you decide to do that later is a relatively easy install, it's just going to be tuning is going to be the issue.

 

The only good thing is im a shop owner so i can do all of the labor myself although i have never been into a 6.0 before.Im new at the diesel game so to speak.What is the RR kit that your speaking of?also i dont have a problem doing the fuel pump as well.Which basically the kits that you can buy from air dog and fass correct?i helped a buddy do a air dog set up on his dodge and it wasnt that bad of an install.Ive also heard that when doing the head studs that sometimes its easier to raise the cab off of the frame.Is this true on a four door dualley?thanks again for all the help.Ryan

 

i agree with the advice everyones giving you. only downside to aftermarket is that if one goes out you can't just get a stock one and drop it in you have to order a new modified injector to match your set up.
i have 90hp dynomites that are great, i went with them because thats what the shop that did all my work sells. if i could do it over i would get the same ones or some spartan stage 1's because i have heard they coat them with something special that helps with injector stiction.
look into a FASS fuel pump for sure because if your stock pump looses fuel pressure it can/will damage your injectors.

 

ALSO: i use the stock turbo and with spartans custom tuning don't have EGT problems unless i'm running the Hybrid Race up in the mountains in high altitude. i clicked it into tow haul to keep the RPM's up and this helped keep my temps in check. but with my Hyrbid Race i can peg my EGT if i got WOT for like 4 or 4 seconds but then the temps drop way down once i get off the throttle. just trying to give you and idea of what to expect.
O Ya and they sound really cool.

 

Fuel Regulated Return(I use ITP's kit for this) keeps constant even fuel psi to all the injectors and it eliminated dead-heading that is common in the 6.0 engine. It comes with a fuel psi gauge that mounts on the regulator itself, but I would go with an in-cab fuel psi gauge as that will let you know how fuel pressure is doing while your hitting WOT, something that a gauge under the hood won't.


Yes, that is correct. I use FASS and I got the biggest that they had at the time, but I think they are even bigger now. Make sure that you crimp and block off the old return line(I made the rookie mistake of not doing that and I paid for that dearly in terms of lost fuel, thankfully it wasn't during it's record highs of the summer).



Yes it is. I have a 4-door DRW and that was the way that we got the headstuds installed in mine. As long as you have the equipment to do it, I do believe that's the easier way to do it. Only other way that I would suggest to do it if you don't have a lift is pull the motor. Some have done it with the cab and motor on and in, but I wouldn't advise that, too many possible bad things that could happen doing it that way. They may not happen, but it just increases those chances on happening.