Clutch adjustment
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Clutch adjustment
Hello all. I just purchased another truck at auction. It's a 1993 F250 with a 7.3. My question is, the truck seems decent with one exception. The clutch grabs right at the top of the peddle. My 1990 grabs right near the floor and I assume that's how it should be. Is there an adjustment for this, or is it a sign it's getting to the point where it needs clutch replacement? If there is an adjustment, would someone be so kind as to give me some pointers on the proper procedure and set-up of the clutch?
Jay
Jay
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
There is no adjustment on Fords hydraulic clutch.
There is an adjustment procedure you should follow when the clutch master cylinder is changed, to make sure the stroke is correct.
Of the top of my head, the master cylinder should be all the way out and there should be about 1/4" free travel before the rod starts pushing the master cylinder piston in.
That should have nothing to do with where the clutch takes hold at though.
The 90 where tyhe clutch takes hold close to the floor, that could be an indication the firewall is cracking and letting the master cylinder move away from the push rod.
Does it go into gear easily when you have the clutch engaged?
If it goes into gear hard, or the gears want to rake, have someone watch the clutch master cylinder while you push the clutch in.
If the master cylinder moves, the firewall is cracked and needs repaired before it breaks.
There is an adjustment procedure you should follow when the clutch master cylinder is changed, to make sure the stroke is correct.
Of the top of my head, the master cylinder should be all the way out and there should be about 1/4" free travel before the rod starts pushing the master cylinder piston in.
That should have nothing to do with where the clutch takes hold at though.
The 90 where tyhe clutch takes hold close to the floor, that could be an indication the firewall is cracking and letting the master cylinder move away from the push rod.
Does it go into gear easily when you have the clutch engaged?
If it goes into gear hard, or the gears want to rake, have someone watch the clutch master cylinder while you push the clutch in.
If the master cylinder moves, the firewall is cracked and needs repaired before it breaks.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for the help Dave. The 90 shifts like a dream, goes in gear like a new truck, so it's right on the money. It doesn't grab too close to the floor by any means. My problem is more that the 93 grabs at the very top. I guess I have a choice to make here. I'm sort of fussy about noise in the truck while driving. I have been known to spend weeks tracking down rattles or squeeks, so I'm a bit nervous about what I have been reading about tranny noise with a solid flywheel. I need to decide how much I'm willing to spend to have the tranny quiet. Don't get me wrong, I use my trucks as trucks, I work them hard, I just try to stay on top of noises and rattles.
Jay
Jay
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: West Valley Utah
Some of the rods between the top of the clutch pedal and into the master cylinder were threaded in the center and had a locknut.
You could adjust it there but DO NOT make it too long or you will have master cylinder problems. Mine had the adjustable rod, my dads did but 2 of my friends and 1 sister did not.
You could adjust it there but DO NOT make it too long or you will have master cylinder problems. Mine had the adjustable rod, my dads did but 2 of my friends and 1 sister did not.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
That rod basically only gives you the free play at the top of the pedal stroke.
Much easier than removing the lever from the clutch pivot shaft and reinstalling it in the correct location, which is what you have to do without the adjustable rod.
Much easier than removing the lever from the clutch pivot shaft and reinstalling it in the correct location, which is what you have to do without the adjustable rod.
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