Block heater plug/wiring info needed.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
Block heater plug/wiring info needed.
Last winter the block heater was buzzing before it quit.
I assumed it was dead and as I had to pull the starter to pull it off and had no desire to do that in the dead of winter.
So today I picked up a replacement from NAPA and when looking in the box found that the plug is not permanently attached to the heater element.
So I did some testing to verify it was the heater and not the wiring before draining the block and pulling it out.
The heater it self tested OK and the plug wire tested bad.
Great, except the new plug only looks like it will fit, but does not!
I looks like the pins on the older heater are a little larger even though the pattern was the same.
I would think the replacement wire would fit the old block heater.
Anyone know who sells a DIRECT replacement wire?
I'm holding off reinstalling the starter until Sunday.
In either case as it has to be off to do anything to the Block Heater.
I still want to know who the engineer was that put that top starter bolt way up there where you can't get at it!
I assumed it was dead and as I had to pull the starter to pull it off and had no desire to do that in the dead of winter.
So today I picked up a replacement from NAPA and when looking in the box found that the plug is not permanently attached to the heater element.
So I did some testing to verify it was the heater and not the wiring before draining the block and pulling it out.
The heater it self tested OK and the plug wire tested bad.
Great, except the new plug only looks like it will fit, but does not!
I looks like the pins on the older heater are a little larger even though the pattern was the same.
I would think the replacement wire would fit the old block heater.
Anyone know who sells a DIRECT replacement wire?
I'm holding off reinstalling the starter until Sunday.
In either case as it has to be off to do anything to the Block Heater.
I still want to know who the engineer was that put that top starter bolt way up there where you can't get at it!
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,537
Likes: 27
From: Long Beach, Ms.
I have said, and still say, that if I ever meet an auto designer/ engineer I going to kill him with my bare hands. I'll never be convicted as I will demand a jury trial. No jury that has an automobile owner on it would find me guilty. Hell they would probably give me a medal.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
I posted this before running a search and intend on tearing the older wire apart at the block plug to inspect the wiring.
If it's OK, Ill just solder it to a piece of hefty extension cord to fix it and get my $45 back from NAPA for the new one.
If it's OK, Ill just solder it to a piece of hefty extension cord to fix it and get my $45 back from NAPA for the new one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Block heaters are available from 500 Watts to 1500 Watts at most parts houses.
From your description, I would guess the one installed in you engine is a higher watt heater than the one you purchased.
If the cord conductors are where the problem is, I see no reason you could not splice on a new cord.
Just make sure you have the conductors attached to the correct terminals and well insulated after you splice the new cord on.
We don't want to hear you touched your truck and electrocuted yourself.
The ground conductor does ground the engine block.
From your description, I would guess the one installed in you engine is a higher watt heater than the one you purchased.
If the cord conductors are where the problem is, I see no reason you could not splice on a new cord.
Just make sure you have the conductors attached to the correct terminals and well insulated after you splice the new cord on.
We don't want to hear you touched your truck and electrocuted yourself.
The ground conductor does ground the engine block.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
The stock one would get the top of the intake manifold and under hood area up to 78 degrees in in about 45 minutes in 20 degree temps.
If the cord conductors are where the problem is, I see no reason you could not splice on a new cord.
Just make sure you have the conductors attached to the correct terminals and well insulated after you splice the new cord on.
We don't want to hear you touched your truck and electrocuted yourself.
The ground conductor does ground the engine block.
Just make sure you have the conductors attached to the correct terminals and well insulated after you splice the new cord on.
We don't want to hear you touched your truck and electrocuted yourself.
The ground conductor does ground the engine block.
I can't afford to lose my transportation right now, so I made sure to wire it right.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Before you use it, check for continuity between the prong on the plug and the truck engine or chassis.
Continuity between the ground prong and the engine or chassis is OK.
Continuity between either of the flat blades and the engine or chassis is not good.
A miswired outlet could cause a shock if the hot and neutral wires are reversed.
Impropperly wired outlets are very common on two prong outlets from my experience as an electrician.
I have seen may three prong outlets wired wrong as well, better safe than sorry.
Continuity between the ground prong and the engine or chassis is OK.
Continuity between either of the flat blades and the engine or chassis is not good.
A miswired outlet could cause a shock if the hot and neutral wires are reversed.
Impropperly wired outlets are very common on two prong outlets from my experience as an electrician.
I have seen may three prong outlets wired wrong as well, better safe than sorry.
