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Can anyone tell me the correct way to convert my 1971 F100 4x4 non power brakes to vaccume assist? The truck has a 300 IL6, manual trans and power steering so I have lots of room.Thanks, any help is appreciated.
it's really pretty simple.the booster can be purchased at parts store or junk yard.i like the junkyard myself ,cheaper,but it's a big chance to take because can't check for leak(unless the truck will run)Make sure you get the rod,it's longer,or shorter?(i can't remember,it's been awhile since i did mine)on mine the brake light switch wouldn't reach,simple cure:use an angle drill,drill a 1/4 inch hole in the "stop".screw a nut on a 1/4 inch bolt,stick it through the hole you drilled,screw another nut on the back side and now you can adjust it to you're switch.the booster simply installs in the same holes as you're master cylinder.make sure you find a good vacume from you're intake and you should be good to go.hope it works out for you,it's definitely a good upgrade. Groundhawg
Well I picked up a power brake booster and proportioning valve today and will try to install tomorrow. I have a couple of questions ; Can I tee off of the PC valve to pick up the vaccume, there is no other opening in a 71 inline 6 -300 intake manifold ? ;do I use the proportioning valve that was in the truck?-The valve that came with the power boost looks different than the one on my truck and the frontend was gone from the donor truck so I dont know if it had disc brakes or drum. Thanks for all the help!!!!!
man i don't think you need the valve,nothing in that deparment has changed.you're just changing the way you accuate the master cylinder.hope someone else can help with the vacume,not to familure with the straight 6,but i don't see why it would'nt work. Groundhawg
Thanks Groundhog for all the help, I finished the swap today and it turned out perfect! I teed off the intake where the pc valve ties in for the brake vaccume, more than enough there for both.The hardest part was tying in the brake lines to the new master cylinder, the fittings were not the same. After much wasted time looking for adapters I finally realised the way to go is to get the fittings with the donor cylinder and put them on the existing lines. This swap leaves the brake pedal about 4" off the floor but still works great, in fact it makes driving in town easier since you dont have to move your foot up as far to reach the pedal. Next up is a power steering swap.
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