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Pitman Arm Removal

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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #1  
Muldo's Avatar
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From: Calgary Canada
Pitman Arm Removal

Hey everyone...

Quick question; Can the pitman arm be removed from the steering gear without disconnecting the drag link? Or is there some sort of geometry that forces me to disconnect the drag link?

Also, the rod-end that connects the drag link to the pitman arm is not an integral part of the drag link is it? I can just replace the end, no?

I'm heading over to the parts store to try to shed some extra light on it right now, but wanted to throw it out here too...

Thanks!!! Mike
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #2  
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Redcat Diesel
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From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Yes the pitman arm can be pulled off of the box with out disconnecting the drag link. No you cannot replace the rod end of the drag link. You have to replace the link.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 04:29 PM
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Yeah... my interrogation at the parts store led me to the same conclusion. I'm not interested in an allignment for the sake of a leaky steering gear. I'm having a rough go of getting the pitman off of the gear, so I'll nudge the drag link out and remove the box so that I can work on it on the bench.

Thanks much everyone!

Mike
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 04:53 PM
  #4  
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<i>I'm having a rough go of getting the pitman off of the gear</i>

Are you using a pitman arm puller? If not get one, you should have no problem finding a place to rent one cheap. Just don't rent a "cheap" one. (I can post a picture of a good one if you like)

Nothing really to be gained by removing the steering gear box, the puller will get it in place, you may need to heat the arm where it surrounds the shaft to aid its removal though. Once you have the arm back on drive the truck a few miles and then re tighten the nut.

When you remove the old seal do not pound on it with a hammer and screw driver, it will damage the lower bearing and cause the needle rollers to all fall out.

If its only leaks and is not been blown completely out you may find it necessary to remove the top cover and lift the pitman shaft out of the bore to knock the seal out from the top with a long skinny drift. Install the shaft back in first, then the new seal kit.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 05:30 PM
  #5  
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If it's just a small drippy leak, try some Lucas first.

It seems to swell the seals just a bit and make the pump a little quieter.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #6  
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Redcat Diesel
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Originally Posted by McLeod
If it's just a small drippy leak, try some Lucas first.

It seems to swell the seals just a bit and make the pump a little quieter.

An old car lot trick is add some brake fluid to the p/s. Works on leaking automatic transmissions too. Brake fluid attacks the seals causing them to swell.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 09:53 PM
  #7  
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From: ohio
Easy way i pulled the seal was get out the snapring and turn the steering wheel to full right, poped right out.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:06 PM
  #8  
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From: Calgary Canada
Hey all...thanks for the words!

danr1 - Using the appropriate puller, no dice. Front diff prevents using swing handle on puller, so I took the box out of the truck and fought with it for another hour. I finally decided to just pay my buddy to yank it off at his shop. At least that way if something gets dammaged it's his fault!

This is no little drippy drippy. Definetly needs a seal, but now that the box is out I will just overhaul the entire thing. Someone refresh my memory, as I haven't done this since school, there are 21 ***** in there, right?

Also, this was not a progressive drip to leak. Full on blowout, so I believe it is just a result of not driving the truck much this summer and the seal dried up. Once I get the box apart I'll know, but I'm guessing the shaft will seal without much problem.
 
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