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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Door Loom Installation

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 04:34 PM
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Door Loom Installation

I have a 1956 F100 and I am rewiring my power windows and soleniods. Does anyone have pictures of their installation of door looms like these?


 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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I do not, but those look great. Thank you for posting the pic.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Axracer has ones like that or similar in his 56 panel, he does have pictures in his gallery. You could also pm him, but I'm sure others that have them will help as well. Those look nice, something I'll be looking into some time myself for my panel.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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I ordered the looms, but after getting them, I'm wondering if the angle of the door is to extreme to use them. I'm also wondering if the looms should be set in the middle of the door or toward the bottom. There is also a structural member in the door that covers much of the access to the end panel. I'm also thinking that I'm going to have to remove the door just to be able to drill the door out so I can mount the loom. You can't drill from the inside of the door because of the structural member so the only option is to drill from the outside which means having to remove the door or attempt to cut the hole with a small cutting tool which will be difficult to do correctly.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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I used 2 of those on each of my doors. There are some pix in my gallery as stated. The big problem I found was there is a brace inside the front of the door for the hinges. I used a hole saw to cut a 3" hole in the inside of the door so I could drill a hole in that brace. I will screw a cover over the holes before upholstery. The lower one is as far down as I felt like I could go without the loom hitting or pinching the wires against the back side of the wheel well when closed, the top one utilized the dome light switch hole. I used a Unibit in a right angle drill to drill the holes and lined the holes in the door brace with a rubber grommet. I drilled the hole in the door jamb first, then closed the door and marked the door frame from inside the kick panel. I am very pleased with how well they work.
PS I used 2 in each door since I have installed electric windows, door locks and will likely be adding speakers in the door as well.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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I just installed a similiar setup from Specialty Power Windows. It uses a SS spring though instead of the SS hose that you've got. The reason I mention it is because after following the directions mine doesn't work. Does ok on opening and ok until 2/3 closed and then the spring binds and won't slide through the bushing. Anyone installed on a 57 - 60?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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AXracer,

Thanks for the input. The pictures are exactly what I was looking for. I figured that the looms will have to be mounted close to the inside of the door and jam. Great idea using the old dome light switch hole. I'm glad the looms work well. I guess there is still hope for me. Did you have to spray them with silicone or some sort of lubricant to make sure they continue to slide easily?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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Not a loom but pretty cool....

Here is a pic of a buddy's truck showing how the wiring was run into the door. He opted to fabricate a cover plate instead of going with a loom. I think it looks good and will be stealing this design for my truck just as soon as it gets that far...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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I have the ss spring type on my 56 with no problems. I did keep the door closed and drilled a pilot hole thru both the a piller and the door frame (so that both holes will line up). Had to modify the door inner. I have speakers in the door, power windows and power door release ( no outside door handles ) All the wires are run thru the one loom ( left door has two window buttons ( one for the left door window also )). Right door just has a button for its window (plus all the other wiring).

The loom is attached to the door and slides into the body. I have about 6 to 8 inches of extra wire so the door swings completly open. My dome light swithes now operate the under dash entrance lights and the 56 dome light is controlled by the stock switch.

Chuck
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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I had heard of problems with kinking on the spring type that's why I went with the braid.
Sliding has not been any problem. The braid is teflon lined so it is smaller diameter inside than you might expect (and why it doesn't kink or take a permanent bend), thats why I went with two per door. The dome light switch hole is slightly larger than the loom. I found that the threads for the locking nut on the loom stopped a bit short of tight, so I used a nylon washer before the nut to take up the space.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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Thanks AXracer! Your input is greatly appreciated. I will let you know how it goes. (It seems pretty straight forward now that I've received help and pictures from you.) If I run into problems, you might be getting a personal message from me. I hope you don't mind.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Not at all, I'm always willing to help anyone I can. I had already answered you here before I saw your PM.
I do like the hinge cover idea tho. Wish I had thought of it.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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Here is a pic of my install, angle is tough when doors are opened but the seemed to "break-in" to position well and I have no binding or bending of the stainless sleve.
I got mine from Ball's Rod & Kustom
They were not pollished on the ends so I did that, real good price, quick ship and they sent my a free hat.
Ed
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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It's been a while since I installed my new wire looms. I decided to go with the Electric-Life Swivel style billet looms and am really happy with the way they turned out. There are some pics in my gallery.



 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Oh! Those look really nice Shane!
 
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