Have 2008 F250 King Ranch

Time to upgrade Toy Hauler and afriad f250 not up to task; anyway to upgrade to f350 capability

Toy hauler dry weight is 11840
Cargo, including 2 bikes - 2000
Truck, incl people, dogs and hitch - 8400
Total is 22440 Ford lists max as 23,000 GCWR and max tow as 15,200.

Hitch wt 2855 - Vendor assumes trailer loaded to max of 16500, so hitch wt might be high. Ford lists max as 2410

Concerned that I'm very close to upper end (over on hitch wt most likely) - really need the capability of anF350 but trade in in financial disaster.

Any upgrades that might work?

Thanks

 

I don't have any ideas to help with the upgrades... unfortunately the only advice I can offer from my experiance possibly makes it worse.

When you mention the dry weight of the Toy Hauler, is this the actual weight on scales that you saw? Weight listed on the "as built" sticker inside the Toy Hauler? .. or dry weight listed in the specs of the Toy Hauler??

Specified Dry weights and pin weights are notoriously incorrect from most RV manufactures. The "as built" stickers are almost as incorrect and do not include optional equipment such as AC units etc.

The only real way to know the actual true weight is to have it taken to the scales yourself. Most RV dealers I have dealt with will let you do this...unless they have something to hide.

I have had freinds with some large Toy Haulers that the specs said something like 2000-2500lbs pin weight, but when it was checked it was more like 4000lbs or more.

One of downsides to having an overweighted truck that most people forget, is even if your truck seems to handle it OK, if a worst case scenerio ever happens (and I hope it never happens to anyone, but it does) and you have an accident, your insurance company can deny the whole claim.

You probably know all of this, but I just wanted to be sure you factor this into your decision.

 

there are only 3 differences between the f250 and f350

1st is the badge on the side
2nd is a 2 inch rear block in the 250 and 4 inch block in the 350
3rd is what the truck is rated for(which is most important!)

everything else on the trucks is the same(like leaf springs....)

if you change your rear block and you change the badging you will essentially have a F350....


Edit: as for upgrades add some Firestone Ride Rites

 

You can probably tell this is new to me, never towed anything that really came close to the stated max of the truck.

Given the previous post about the insurance, i'm inclined to ask how do you know about the differences? I'm not doubting but rather looking to learn. And given those very minor differences why does ford actually make the two trucks?

I want to be careful for the family and i'm scared as what my wife will do to me if i do something unwise.....that damages her Harley!

Any thoughts on whether a dealer can do the upgrade and I can get the GVWR changed and avoid the insurance issue.

Appreciate the help!

 

... and the one that can't be changed.

I personally would wait on getting a bigger Toy Hauler until I had an F-350 DRW or an F-450.... or can budget for one.

Sure upgrading to a bigger badder Toy Hauler is fun, but I have never seen evidence that it is "needed"... AND "upgrading" an RV is certainly not worth putting yourself or those with you at risk.

Use the money you are planning to upgrade your Toyhauler to upgrade your truck... then upgrade your Toy Hauler later when you can...instead of the reverse.

 

If your pulling this trailer loaded alot, then I would think the dual rear wheels would be a nice feature. I am not sure if it's still this way, but Fdot only pulled commercial vehicles. All RV and travel trailers were free from them, and FHP and locals didn't know enough to do anything about them.

For upgrades. Try Roadmaster Active suspension. I think there website is How the Roadmaster Active Suspension System Works A modified valve body and good fluid for the trans, anything to keep it cooler will extend it's life. I believe the drivetrain is the same on both, so the upgrades just make it better. The RAS will help with the load, and your hitch could help as well, I hope your using a 5th wheel or goose neck for that load.

 

As of '05+ they use a larger axle with more splines in the F350 SRW trucks.

I tow a 5th wheel that is real close to your specs. Pin weight is 2650#, loaded weight is 13,460# with a 15k GVW. It tows/handles/stops very well. I've towed it thru most of the western U.S. I've also had the "opportunity" for a couple of emergency stops, that turned out far better than expected.

Airbags are good idea.

Good luck

 

i would recommend reading the tech folder its full with lots of great information



I agree with what other have said about moding your truck. Use good fluids and change them often. I think your truck will do fine. Yeah it would be nice to have F450 DRW but it not necessary. your truck will handle the load just as well as an equal f350. Now, I am not saying go over the load limit, but as long as you are under it your truck will be fine.

 

The F-250 will not handle the load as good as the newer F-350 srw. They have different rear axle ratings. the F-250 is about 6,000lb max and the F-350 is 7,100lbs max. As pointed out above the 350 has a heavier rear axle (larger diameter since 2005) with more splines. The older trucks had the same axle, but were also rated for less weight than todays F-350. Air bags help to keep your truck at it's proper ride height and improve handling, but do not help strengthen your axle. I have had them and like them.

edit: The weak point in hauling fifth wheels with the 250 is the rear axle, it is easy to overload it before you exceed the GCVW. I had this problem before and moved up to the 350 to overcome the problem. I agree with the above post to go and weigh the unit at the scales. Every fiver I have had weighed way more than advertised.

Doug

 

37 splines vs. 35 splines

 

First.... Go to a certified set of scales and weigh your toy hauler and whatever else you might be hauling. Don't assume. Even if you are 'AT' max loaded weight you will still be alright. It is designed to haul MAX. Safety is set within those parameters. Your safety is going to be how you drive at max weight. You definatly need to drive with a little different style loaded than when you are empty.

 

The statement about insurance denying the whole claim is bogus. It's an urban legend, internet fallacy perpetuated over and over. That's not the way insurance works.

The trucks are essentially the same; however, as stated, since 2005 the rear axle "shafts" are different, stronger, in the F350. I doubt it would make a difference, but I don't *know* that to be a fact. You could change everything over to F350 parts (change the rear differential parts), but the door sticker will always be the same. Are 35 spline shafts up to the task, probably. What would be the difference if your shafts failed? You'd have to pull the shaft and replace it when it broke. Would it be a catastrophic failure, maybe. What makes a shaft break, or shear the splines? I don't *think* the 35 spline axles are the weak link, but who really knows until something fails.

What is the total weight on your axle(s), with the pin weight as stated?

 

Not saying you should do what I did, but when I realized I made a mistake buying an F250 w/ the 5.4l, I decided to drive it for a while (40k of irritation) and traded it in on my current truck. I took a hit, but Van Bortel in Victor, NY hooked me up w/ $12k off sticker. That pretty much took care of the hit I took on the trade in which all things considered wasn't bad. I have zero regrets with fixing my initial mistake which happened because I didn't test drive the truck on the highway or towing anything. The down shifting all the time is what did it...

 

think the right choice is to 'right size' the rv - with maybe some airbags as insurance or at least a level ride.