Injector o-ring/cap question
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New User
Joined: Sep 2007
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Injector o-ring/cap question
Hi guys,
I'm replacing my o-rings/caps/return lines. On #4, the line pressure sensor is really stuck, and trying to loosen nut and sensor to get the cap off just makes the steel line start to twist.
Any tips on how to get the thing apart...seems bound to be trouble. There's corrosion on much of it...it's an 89 with all original injectors and lines.
thanks!
I'm replacing my o-rings/caps/return lines. On #4, the line pressure sensor is really stuck, and trying to loosen nut and sensor to get the cap off just makes the steel line start to twist.
Any tips on how to get the thing apart...seems bound to be trouble. There's corrosion on much of it...it's an 89 with all original injectors and lines.
thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
green bus,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Use a wrench to keep the timing adapter from turning while you loosen the nut on the fuel line.
A bit of PB Blaster sprayed on a time or two before you try to remove it may also help.
Sometimes when mine are stuck, I have actually turned them a bit tighter, then tried removing the nut again.
Sometimes that helps break them loose for me.
Most important though, do not let the adapter turn with the nut in either direction.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Use a wrench to keep the timing adapter from turning while you loosen the nut on the fuel line.
A bit of PB Blaster sprayed on a time or two before you try to remove it may also help.
Sometimes when mine are stuck, I have actually turned them a bit tighter, then tried removing the nut again.
Sometimes that helps break them loose for me.
Most important though, do not let the adapter turn with the nut in either direction.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
Copy-paste from the other site: you'll need two 5/8" open-end wrenches for this - put one wrench on the adapter/sensor thing and hold it still, while yanking on the line nut with the other wrench. Once the nut is loose the line will come off the adapter/sensor thing, then you can unscrew that itself from the injector below to get to the return lines. It reinstalls in reverse order - first return lines and cap, then screw the adapter/sensor thing to the injector and tighten it, then put the pressure line on the thing and tighten the line nut. Clear as mud?
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New User
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Thanks for the welcome! Been lurking for a while, but I'm hoping to get this beast running again now, so I'm sure I'll be posting more.
Yeah, I was surprised by the corrosion and difficulty freeing the line nut, since the rest went so easy. I already let the pressure sensor turn <1/4-turn or so with the nut and hope I didn't mung it up.
I'm not sure how I'll know if it has been damaged before I get to cranking Makes sense to try tightening first on the line nut. Thanks!
Yeah, I was surprised by the corrosion and difficulty freeing the line nut, since the rest went so easy. I already let the pressure sensor turn <1/4-turn or so with the nut and hope I didn't mung it up.
I'm not sure how I'll know if it has been damaged before I get to cranking Makes sense to try tightening first on the line nut. Thanks!
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 69
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PB Blaster...
I've had success by wrapping a small scrap of cloth around the nut/line interface, saturating it with PB Blaster, then wrapping it in plastic to let it soak. Keep it saturated and wait several days if you have the patience.
cheers,
cheers,
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
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I've heard good things about Aero Kroil (sp?) too, so you may wanna give that a try? I'd probably have a propane torch at hand too, just in case, but I don't know how such heat will affect the inner lining of the injection lines.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Not sure if I would want to put much heat close to the timing sensor.
That could be interesting in such close proximity to the plastic return tee's as well.
That could be interesting in such close proximity to the plastic return tee's as well.
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New User
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They came apart without any trouble...just a bit of patience.
New o-rings, return lines, caps, purged air, fired it up and it's running fine.
I haven't driven the bus for a solid year, so I need to deal with other stuff to get roadworthy, but I think I've solved the air leaks that were making it blow big clouds of white smoke.
thanks for all the help!
New o-rings, return lines, caps, purged air, fired it up and it's running fine.
I haven't driven the bus for a solid year, so I need to deal with other stuff to get roadworthy, but I think I've solved the air leaks that were making it blow big clouds of white smoke.
thanks for all the help!
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