It has been a couple months since my last post. I have a 66 F250 camper special with a 352 & cruise-o-matic transmission. I also have a 74 F250 with a 360 / T18 or T19 transmission parts donor truck. I'm in the middle of upgrading to disc brakes and power steering with parts from the 74 truck. I went the route of swapping out the full front suspension versus the kingping/spindle swap. For the power steering upgrade I've pulled the PS gearbox, pump, pump bracket, left side engine perch, steering column and firewall mount from the 74.

This is my first experience with these upgrades. I'm learning a lot to say the least and I probably would not have attempted these upgrades without the guidance and experince provided by the members of this oustanding forum. You have saved me time, money, helped reduce the number the times I busted my knuckles or bumped my bald head on some piece of Ford steel. Thank you!

To help complete the picture I finally picked up my 428 (very sweet) which was a year in the rebuild process. I was bumming about the prospect of needing to sell it but, it now looks like I may be able to install it in my 66. OH my!

I'm at a fork in the road because the PS gear box from the 74 will not fit with the longer 66 steering column. So, I can either shorten the 66 column (I read about that elsewhere and it sounds a bit tricky) or install the shorter 74 column. The 66 column of course has the auto shifter setup and the 74 column has no shifter since the 74 is a 4 speed (floor shifter).

I don't think the cruis-o-matic (COM) will work very well with the torque and HP from the 428. So, I can either go with a C6 and shorten the 66 column accordingly or go with a standard shift and use the steering column from the 74. I could also shorten the 66 column and remove the shifter (somehow?) and go the 4 speed route. My dream would be to install a Clark model 285 5 speed or maybe a toploader. I don't know much about toploaders except they seem to be well spoken of.

I intend to use the 66 for ocassional light and sometimes moderate/heavy hauling, leisure cruising and showing off when I feel like it! It has a 410 rear gear which I would like to switch out to a 350 (353??) for lower RPM at highway speeds

I'm leaning towards a standard shift but want to make sure I'm aware of the issues/challenges involved with making the switch. I think this would be a better setup than a C6 (parasitic HP loss). What I don't know is:

Will the clutch/brake pedal assembly from the 74 "bolt up" to the 66?

Will the cab floor pan on the 66 need to be cut to install the floor shifter panel from the 74?

Will I need to make driveline changes/transmission support member changes?

What other changes would I need to make to go the standard shift route?

Why might the C6 route be a better / easier solution?

Well this post is pretty long so I'll wrap it up. Thank's in advance for your help.

 

How about the '74 column and the C6 with a floor shift. Lokar makes a 23" floor shifter that fits right on the C6.

 

ky66, Find a column from any 73-79 truck that has power steering and the tranny that you want to use and install it. My column is out of a 76 as is most of the other upgrade parts. I removed the clutch pedal but retain my 66 str. drv. brake pedal. I still have the 3spd cross member under the C6 in my truck (relocated).

The C-O-M should handle the 428 but if I could put the deal together I would put some kind of OD behind it. Without OD, I would be hunting a 2.75 rear to run.


John

 

I did a nearly identical swap from a 352/3 speed to a 390/C6 (an later went to a 460 anyway!)
I would NOT recommend the C-4 behind a 428. Too weak. A C5 or C6 is better, even with the HP loss.

Will the clutch/brake pedal assembly from the 74 "bolt up" to the 66?
No. Not even close. You'll need to get the underdash assembly from a '65 or '66. '64 and earlier, and '67 and later won't work either. I tried this as well, when measuring for the dual master cylinder upgrade.

Will the cab floor pan on the 66 need to be cut to install the floor shifter panel from the 74?
Yes.

Will I need to make driveline changes/transmission support member changes?
Driveline - Yes. You should have a 2-piece driveshaft. You need only have the front one shortened, and then use a conversion joint to mate the driveline to the transmission yoke.
Note: Some will object to this saying the extra U-joint will introduce instability in the driveline. Not true, as the carrier bearing holds it in place.
Trans Support - No changes needed, if you use factory engine mounts in the factory location. A 428 will bolt up the same to the perches as a 352, which puts the transmission in the right location for the transmisison mount on the crossmember.
Note: You should remove the front crossmember which keeps the I-beam radius arms in track - BUT ONLY to install and remove the transmission. Since your truck is an automatic from the factory, it should be a bolted one. Manuals from the factory were riveted in.

What other changes would I need to make to go the standard shift route?
A lot. Shift rod hole in the cab, Z-bar mounts on the frame and block, more.

Why might the C6 route be a better / easier solution?
Because it is easier to shorten the '66 column, or put in the '76 column than to convert an automatic truck to a stick. The opposite is easier, in fact.

Good luck!

 

C4's weren't used with any FE engines. C5's were modified C4's used on some F100/150's in 1980/83.

Transmission shops once refered to C4's as C5's long before Ford ever offered a C5.

The C-O-M in a 1965/67 F100/350 w/a 352 (and F350's w/300's), is the MX C-O-M also used in 1961/67 cars with 352/390's.

The 428 used C6's, both were introduced (cars) in 1966.

The MX C-O-M is not an FMX. The MX was cancelled after 1967, the FMX wasn't introduced till 1969, used on cars only thru 1972.

The only trucks that used the FMX were 1973/77 F350's with 300's.

 

What I don't know is:

Will the clutch/brake pedal assembly from the 74 "bolt up" to the 66?

----- I don't know either.

Will the cab floor pan on the 66 need to be cut to install the floor shifter panel from the 74?

----- Isn't there a removal floor panel over the hump the would need to be switched out? A Slick hump cover with a stick hole would need to located though.

Will I need to make driveline changes/transmission support member changes?

----- I would guess you would need to change out the front driveshaft because the length of the T-18 is less than the COM...not a biggie. I don't know if the crossmember would bolt in or not.

What other changes would I need to make to go the standard shift route?

----- It would likely be easier to change out the entire pedal assembly under the dash. Renew the bushings and give them some grease....

Why might the C6 route be a better / easier solution?

----- I can't see it.

Based on what you described, here is what I WOULD DO:
I wouldn't trust the old COM behind the 428 either. IF I could locate a C6 that I KNEW was good - MAYBE I'd consider it, but the chances of that are pretty slim as they've been out of production for quite some time now too, so if I was bound to go the C6 route, I'd still want to have it freshened up. That would be an additional cost...BUT who are we kidding, it's going to cost some $$ either way - we know that. Fresh pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing and probably some linkage hardware & parts will take $$ too. It comes down to what do you expect to do with your truck.

If you want to just cruise it around and look pretty, then go with the automatic. I suspect if you wanted a cruiser, you'd likely have a F100 instead. For me, I want my Slick to be my retro, head-turning old truck that CAN & DOES STILL do work expected from a truck. I don't cruise it around much, the primary use is for towing and hauling. To do work with your truck i.e., haul a camper/trailer/boat/etc. then stick with the stick. Sure, there are folks who do tow and haul with a auto, but I prefer using a stick for such things. You already have the T-18 in hand and it is a real-truck transmission. Assuming it is in good shape, it will do ANYTHING you'll want your truck to do - EXCEPT be economical as a daily driver or fast highway cruiser. No need for a ATF cooler either.

If the shorter '74 steering column will work (I can't say it would - 'cause I've never installed a '74 column into a Slick) I'd do it and never look back. Same goes for the clutch linkage. But I'm sure you wouldn't regret it. You've got a heck of a F250 TRUCK... It's not a mustang or pinto, it won't get 25+mpg nor ride or handle like one, but if you keep it ALL truck, then it will do most anything you want a TRUCK to do.......Just my two cents worth of opinions........

Good Luck and keep us posted on your decision!
BarnieTrk

P.S.
In case you noticed, my F250 listed in my signature below currently is fitted with a 4spd with OD. Yeah, it goes down the road at a lesser rpm, but I have to ride the clutch more than I like when backing up or taking off with a load or trailer. So as a result, I am seriously thinking/planning to swap it out for a T-18. Sure, I get slightly better fuel mileage with the OD, but again, to have & operate a F-250 isn't about fuel mileage for me.

 

Thanks to all for the very helpful information. This gives me a few more things to ponder. I'll now be able to make a better informed decision. I'll know what I'm in for regardless of the route I take.

When looking from under the truck cab it's hard to see the transmission hump in the floor pan. I don't yet want to pull up any of the original floor mat to see if there is a removable panel for a standard shift. I don't think there is one. I now know that the pedals from the 74 won't work. That information removed some uncertainty and saved me some work!

I'm going to look at the drive lines under both trucks. Maybe the 74 drive line would work with the 66 if I grab the T18 from it. I don't know what the condition of the T18 is. My understanding it that these are stout and relaible units. I only saw it operate twice - loading and unloading it from a trailer when I bought it. It's also good to know about the floor shift option in case I go the automatic route.

BernieTrk - your pretty much on target about me using the truck for it's original purposes. We have part ownership of a farm that is 200 miles from my home. Driving to and from it a few times a year would probably be the most highway miles it would be driven. It could do the farm work when i get it there too!

I've got a couple hours this afternoon so I'm going to the garage to remove that pesky left side engine perch on my 66. My teenage son is home too so I may draft him to hold a wrench or two. Thanks again to all for the help. I'll make a decision soon and will let you guys know what it is.

 

One thing to remember with a 428, is that that the engine is a externally balanced. You will need a flywheel/flexplate for a 428 or have one balanced for it.

 

Bertha66,

I have a detroit balanced flywheel for the 428 for a manual shift transmission.

Thanks for your advise.

 

I installed the 74 drivers side engine perch on the 66. It fits as I had hoped!

Now I'm trying to figure out how to get the steering column with the automatic transmission shift arm (the flat steel piece at the bottom of the column that attaches to the A/T shift rod) still attached. It looks like I either need to remove the steering wheel, turn signal handle, shift handle and take the column through the firewall and out the front or figure out how to detatch the aformentioned shift arm. Any instructions/direction from the forum would be appreciated.

 

Change columns to one from the 70s with power steering, it's a perfect fit.


John

 

Okay - I may have located a clutch / brake pedal assembly from a 66 F100. Having that and the 4 speed (T18 ot T19) from the 74 donor truck, what other parts will I need to convert the 66 from a cruise-o-matic to a 4 speed and which of these from the 74 (with a 360 V8) will I be able to use on the 66 truck?

I did not mention that both truck are 2WD. I checked the drivelines. It is a two driveline (assembly with the carrier thing?? between them) on both trucks.

Also, I'll be renting a steering wheel puller so I can finish the removal of the 66 steering column.

Thanks again for your help!

 

The guy who may supply the pedal assembly is partially parting out a 66 F100 with a 3 speed transmission. I don't know what all he has that I could use to convert my 66 to a 4 speed. I don't know what parts to ask for. I read on this form about the clutch equalizer bar (z-bar) and it sounds like 65-72 may be compatable. So the one on the 74 truck I have probably will not work. Will the z-bar from the 66 with a 3 speed be the same as a z-bar for a 66 4-speed? What else would be compatable between a 66 with a 3-speed and a 66 4-speed that I should ask for? Thank you.

 

Get the entire under-dash bracket with both pedals. It bolts to the firewall and under the dash. Unique to '65 and '66.
Clutch rod - between the pedal and Z-bar.
Frame mount for Z-bar.
Engine mount for Z-bar.
Z-bar.
Clutch rod - pushes on the arm that sticks out of the bellhousing. Is threaded, and the componenet wcrewed on there has flats for a wrench and a rounded tip where it seats into the clutch arm.
Return spring
Arm
Get the rubber seal for the hole where the cltuch rod passes through the firewall, if it is still there.

For the cab, get the center hump from the floor. You can cut your cab and bolt this down in place. Get the seal and boot between it and the transmission, if they are still any good.

ND - help with the correct nomenclature please!

 

BanjoPicker66 - Thank you. The information you provided helps a lot. It would be nice if any of those part could be taken from the 74 F250 352 4 speed parts truck that is sitting in my driveway.