This is an excellent thread, If I can't locate a working set by this weekend I will be doing the reconstructive surgery as described above. I am having issues with my locking mechanisim as well. Dores anyone have a fix for that too?

My lock seems to be stuck in the locked position? Has be lubricated but perhaps I will be able to see the issue once they are torn down.

 

Rodney at HOTRODSCLASSICTRUCKPARTS has a new thingy that goes on the square rod on the door handle with a spring on it that attaches to the door and the spring holds the handle up in position, I got it but haven't had time to install yet, really simple looking fix, Garry

 

That ought to be fun to install. Sure save some major surgery.

 

Rodney's number is 1-800-236-0046 if your interested, shouldn't take but about 15 minutes to install, pretty simple but I'm waiting till I take my door panels off to cover them so I haven't installed mine, Garry------- I think they were around 50 bucks.

 

Hi Kusto,

Just a thought....There were two ways the door would lock (depending on whether or not it had the extra parts to support an external key lock.)You could either lock it from the outside using the key (on all passenger side doors and some/Extra Cab drivers side doors) OR you could lock it by flipping the interior door handle forward (counterclockwise on the passenger side and clockwise on the drivers side).

When you flip the interior handle forward it crams a locking bar (located beneath the bolt slide in my initial pictures) forward that has a metal tab on it that keeps the rotating piece that the handle fits through (with the square hole) from rotating. Take a look at the 3rd picture down on my #20 post. You can see the tab down at about the 4 o'clock position from the square hole. In that picture, that bar with tab on end would slide to the left to fit under the piece (with the square hole) and prevents it from rotating. That piece when it rotates is what pushes the bolt back with it's cam pointing straight up. If that lock is engaged, the rotating piece can't rotate and the bolt can not be moved.

If that door has an exterior key lock as well you still can not unlock the door with the key, the interior handle must be pulled back to mechanically unblock the bolt from turning. The key lock parts and the interior handle lock are NOT interrelated but two seperate locking devices and one will not unlock the other.

Your problem sounds like the hard bolt used by the interior handle has been put in the locked position and is stuck there. You may want to try rotation that handle to see if it will unlock or offer a little "extra encouragement" to get that locking bar to pull back.

 

Thanks Julie, I tried that and made no difference, so I think there must be something piled up in my lock mechanism, The key will not rotate fully one way so that makes me think there is an issue with the lock itself. The interior door handle functions properly on both doors so that confirms that the lock for the exterior door handle on the passenger side is definitely independent of the lock for the exterior handle.

Today I will tear these down and see what I can do to fix them. If I generate any additional pictures of the repair process, I will post them here for future reference.

 

Wait!

Usually when the exterior lock will not turn all the way around or unlock the door, it has been installed with it's shaft partly turned and out of position. Try removing the lock cylinder from the door and turn the shaft on the lock a quarter turn in either direction then reinstall. Play with that. I'm almost certain that it is the problem if I understand correctly what you said.

And here's why. When you get it out put the key in it and turn it. You will see that there is a "cup" with slots cut in it's sides, that rotates with the key a full turn. BUT it turns around the shaft (and th eshaft pin in the slots) in such a fashion that it free turns without turning the shaft except for the last 1/4 turn. That way the key makes a full revolution (so the lock cylinder is positioned at the top where the pins are when the key is inserted or removed in either the locked or unlocked position) but the shaft that truns only makes a quarter (or thereabouts) turn.

It's very difficult to describe, but you will see what I mean when you get the lock out of the door. It needs to be reinstalled with the key in the "insert" or "remove" position (up) and the shaft at the 1/4 turn point - so when you turn the key it only rotates the shaft in the last 1/4 of the key rotation.

Anyway, play with installing the lock cylinder with that shaft in a different position and that should fix it - you'll find the right position - of the three possible.

 

Any luck?

Bump!

 

I wonder how close the lock mechaism is to our trucks? Anyone know someone with a 1940 Ford coupe?



This is from Bob Drakes catalog.
Kit Includes: Special LH door lock cylinder mount, RH & LH latch assemblies, 2 match-keyed lock cylinders & keys, Easy to install instructions
Part # 01A-7021812-3-K $250.00


Would like to know if these could be modified to fit?


Thanks, Ford52F2

 

Wow, nice find!

Ford had the habit of reusing designs from older model cars on it's trucks. I guess the only way we will know is for someone to buy one of these and see if they will bolt in to the truck door.....Any 40 Ford guys wanna volunteer?

 

I first came across a pile of these at a single person Swap meet/Flea market/Yard sale out in Pasadema, CA. I thought they looked close enough to ours, but didn't buy any . Then at the Louisville National Street Rods, I came across the ones at Bob Drakes booth. Guess I may need to call, an see if they can find time to compare. I would like a door lock also.

I'm also looking at putting a lock on the glove box. I use to be involved in the locksmith trade years ago with my dad, (went on to bigger an better things) he has a lot of odd ball auto keys and locks for antique cars and trucks. But no glove locks for ours. I'm trying to locate a decent looking style cam lock for the glove box. I can borrow his hole punch to put a D style hole in the door. The tail locking slot is already made by Ford. Just need alignment and hole.

Regards, Ford52F2

 

Don't know about these working but I do know the Hot Rods CLassic Truck Parts has a new product for our trucks that goes over the outside handle shaft, it has a cable and a spring that bolts to the latch and it pulls the outside handle to level position for about 50 bucks. Rodney's # is 1 800 236 0046, later Garry

 

You will see the glove box doors on e-bay all the time. There's two of them on there now but neither has a lock. You can remove the lock and take it to a locksmith and have it rekeyed to fit the same key as your door lock (or for that matter take the door lock out too and have them all rekeyed to the ignition lock). If you know where to buy the pin kits, you can probably do it yourself with your background. Mine were about $20 ea for door and glove box locks.

If you find a lock with a key for sale it will be fairly expensive - around $65. Usually the glove box doors (with a lock but no key) go for about $30.

 

First of all, thanks for the Information I have read here in this Forum. I bought 2 Pick ups a 49 F1 & a 56 F100, the 56 I will sell. I only knew about Ford Woodies, about trucks...."nada".
Before I bought them I came in here and did a crash course, here you have information you can't imagine, I repainted the 56 engine as I saw here, ready to change my 49 to 12volts...and more.
I'm writing today to tell you about the sagging door handles.... I was following Julie's info, but I came across a pair of 1937 Ford 4 door Sedan rear locks


and as you see the cams are the same, even the lock bolt is the same!
so done...


Thanks!

Also I used for the '56 F100

the Window Regulator Crank Shaft & Gear from a 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with handle, perfect fit!

 

Is there some reason I can't see the pictures in post 20...sagging door handles...I see pictures in other posts?

Thanks...tom