I'm trying to do the inside bleed on my clutch master cylinder. Got the switch off but I can't see how to disconnect the rod from the peddle. I've read in a couple threads to just pop it off and sometimes the plastic clip breaks. Is this really how its done?

 

there should be a c-u clamp on the pin in the pedal arm. I cant remember for sure but most are that way. one side may fit over the pin and the other side locks it on. If its just a plain c clip it just pushes off, a small screwdriver can be used to start the clip removal.

I just dont remember tonight. Its been a year or so since I last did mine. just need to look at how the pin is retained and go from there.

 

Thanks for replying. I'm going to check it today with a mirror and see what the clip looks like. I'm 6' and 250 lbs so I don't fit under the dash very well.

 

Its a new morning and I just thought on this and I think some of them just were pushed off> Like a press fit onto the pin you push it off. Seem to recall that it may have been like a nylon bushing/lock. Havent been outside yet so cant look.

As to size I am about 5'10 and 230 so I know what ya mean.

 

I could not find a parts break down on this but this may help a little:

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

 

Thanks for the link. Borrowed a mirror from my wife and it does have what looks like a plastic locking bushing. If I pry it off it will probably break so I've got to pick up a new one. I made the decision today to just pull the tranny and have a look inside since it's never been done. Got everything off but the top 2 bolts and I can't find my 2' extension so guess I'm headed to Harbor Tool too.

I've owned several manual Rangers and never had to mess with a clutch.

 

well while you are in there might as well do everything. pres plate, slave/throwout etc. also make sure all the shift rail plugs are the metal ones. The plastic will dry out and leak all the fluid out.

 

Sounds like a plan. From what I've read the metal shift rail plugs, Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108, are getting hard to find so I may have to go OEM.

 

Got the tranny pulled today and its a good thing I decided to do it. The slave cylinder was leaking, the clutch was getting close to the rivets and one of the springs in the clutch disk had broken. That broken spring destroyed the pressure plate and it damaged the flywheel bolts.

To add insult to injury Summit Racing was out of the Zoom clutch kit I wanted and the Dorman freeze plugs for the shift rails. Never been let down by Summit before.

 

well did you figure out the clutch rod also? You might as well replace the master along with the slave as it will more than likely fail just after you get everything back together.

I put an autozone clutch in mine, they have a lifetime warrenty and i have gotten 2 so far after the original. Not that I had problems, but about 30K after I had the trans repaired, OD went out, so while it was out I went to get a new disk, but they told me to bring it in and get the whole works! I had a slave go bad last year or so and while I had the trans out again I got a new clutch assy for GP's. They also have lifetime slave cyl's. Granted they play the odds that no one will ever collect on the guarantee but I have. They call their stuff dura last or something like that. comes with a throwout bearing and the pilot bearing. I found that if you put a lot of extra grease in the piliot and pull the seal off the throwout bearing and pack with grease that it seems to help a lot. I had bought the aftermarket high dollar slave and throwouts and they just didnt last so thats why I went with AZ for the slave this last time. So far so good.

glad its all working out for ya.

 

I haven't taken the clutch rod off yet but you're probably right about the master cylinder, might as well make it all new. Thanks for the tip about Autozone clutches.