Rough idle, service engine soon light, HELP
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 163
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From: Zeeland, MI
Rough idle, service engine soon light, HELP
Hey guys,
Ran out for lunch. Truck ran fine till on the way back to work. At 30 MPH the service engine soon light came on and the truck began to shake and run funny, kind of like a fluttering noise. At stop lights the truck shakes, but smoothes out at higher RPM.....I checked the Oil, It is almost at 5000 miles, and shows just a bit over the add line on the dip stick.....thoughts?
(I did a search, but most of the threads were a version of my experiance)
Ran out for lunch. Truck ran fine till on the way back to work. At 30 MPH the service engine soon light came on and the truck began to shake and run funny, kind of like a fluttering noise. At stop lights the truck shakes, but smoothes out at higher RPM.....I checked the Oil, It is almost at 5000 miles, and shows just a bit over the add line on the dip stick.....thoughts?
(I did a search, but most of the threads were a version of my experiance)
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 163
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From: Zeeland, MI
I've been running Valvoline 15W-40....I just unplugged the ICP, made no diff.....light is still lit on the dash, running rough. I do not have any way to pull the code's.......The oil is a touch over 5000 miles, so I'm going to run out and get fresh oil and filter....
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 163
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From: Zeeland, MI
No smoke, last fuel filter change was 6 months ago....I'm going to change the oil, and we'll see.....thoughts on the stealer ship or auto zone pulling codes???
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
X2 I'd recommend ohming the connectors on the valve cover.
Since the engine oil is slightly over full, smell it and make sure it doesn't smell like diesel.
Since the engine oil is slightly over full, smell it and make sure it doesn't smell like diesel.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Zeeland, MI
I may have miss typed, but the oil is about 1.5Q low, just over the add mark....
Thanks for the help
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Unplug the 9 pin connector at the valve cover and ohm the pins.
To check the harness ohm it at the Valve cover connector on the outside.
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM do not pierce to wires to test.***
Ohm between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms
To check glow plugs Ohm between "G" and battery ground should be between 0.1 and 2.0 Ohms
Pay attention to the ohm readings on the injectors. If you've got one that reads .7 or so lower than the others, and everything else checks out ok, you may have a bad injector solenoid. If it gets to that point, and you can't find someone close by with a scanner, I'd recommend paying a shop to scan it before you go buying injectors.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 163
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From: Zeeland, MI
You did type it right, I read it wrong. The plug on the inside of the valve cover is the one that usually comes loose. Since pulling the valve covers to check takes a good bit of time, you can use an ohm meter as a quick check.
Unplug the 9 pin connector at the valve cover and ohm the pins.
To check the harness ohm it at the Valve cover connector on the outside.
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM do not pierce to wires to test.***
Ohm between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms
To check glow plugs Ohm between "G" and battery ground should be between 0.1 and 2.0 Ohms
Pay attention to the ohm readings on the injectors. If you've got one that reads .7 or so lower than the others, and everything else checks out ok, you may have a bad injector solenoid. If it gets to that point, and you can't find someone close by with a scanner, I'd recommend paying a shop to scan it before you go buying injectors.
Unplug the 9 pin connector at the valve cover and ohm the pins.
To check the harness ohm it at the Valve cover connector on the outside.
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM do not pierce to wires to test.***
Ohm between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms
To check glow plugs Ohm between "G" and battery ground should be between 0.1 and 2.0 Ohms
Pay attention to the ohm readings on the injectors. If you've got one that reads .7 or so lower than the others, and everything else checks out ok, you may have a bad injector solenoid. If it gets to that point, and you can't find someone close by with a scanner, I'd recommend paying a shop to scan it before you go buying injectors.
Thanks again all.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Zeeland, MI
Ok, F350-6....I changed the oil when I got home....took a test drive no diff.....still runs rough at idle, shakes like I'm driving on wash board at 1500rpms, and has the SES light set....
i ran through your test, and either I did it wrong or I have bad stuff going on....I disconected the harness going to the valve covers, and tested the pins on the valve covers (not the harness end...)....I have Drivers side, from rear to front, .007, .005, .005, .003 ohms, and pass side rear to front .017, .012, .003, .004 ohms......
So did I screw somthing up?.......
Thanks for any replies...
i ran through your test, and either I did it wrong or I have bad stuff going on....I disconected the harness going to the valve covers, and tested the pins on the valve covers (not the harness end...)....I have Drivers side, from rear to front, .007, .005, .005, .003 ohms, and pass side rear to front .017, .012, .003, .004 ohms......
So did I screw somthing up?.......
Thanks for any replies...
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 269
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From: Las Vegas
Sure sounds like a loose harness inside the valve cover; seems very similar to what I had going on about a month ago. Pulling the valve cover is really not all that bad; a bit time consuming but it does give you a good opportunity to clean up that side of the engine bay including the IC pipe and the boots. Tip: on the passenger side valve cover the last two bolts on the bottom near the firewall can be easily reached if you remove the passenger front wheel and go through that way. Another tip that I neglected: tighten up to torque specs all of the hardware inside the valve cover.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: Zeeland, MI
Sure sounds like a loose harness inside the valve cover; seems very similar to what I had going on about a month ago. Pulling the valve cover is really not all that bad; a bit time consuming but it does give you a good opportunity to clean up that side of the engine bay including the IC pipe and the boots. Tip: on the passenger side valve cover the last two bolts on the bottom near the firewall can be easily reached if you remove the passenger front wheel and go through that way. Another tip that I neglected: tighten up to torque specs all of the hardware inside the valve cover.
Ok, cool...thanks for the info. Tomarrow morning the valve covers are coming off and we'll see what we can find.....I'm hopeing to find a wire harness or somthing loose.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I'm not an electrical genius, so I'm not sure what to say about the ohm readings. It seems like most of them come in around 3.2 or so. Is it possible you have different ohm settings on your meter and just selected the wrong one?
If you're going to pull the valve covers, I'd start with the passenger side since it has the biggest difference in the readings. I just pulled the passenger side on my wifes truck tonight and re-torqued the rocker arm pedestal bolts and injector hold down bolts. I agree 100% with uliman about tightening things up. It's been my experience you'll find a few loose injector bolts, and tightening things up will make the truck sound a whole lot better when you take it for a spin.
Rockers 20 ft - lbs
Injector bolts 120 in = lbs.
If the clip did come loose you can buy an updated harness (cheaper from IH), buy a shim for the connector (cheaper from IH), or grind the edge off a quarter (25 cents per side) to make sure this doesn't happen again.
Now I'll see if I can find an electrician to answer your ohm question.
If you're going to pull the valve covers, I'd start with the passenger side since it has the biggest difference in the readings. I just pulled the passenger side on my wifes truck tonight and re-torqued the rocker arm pedestal bolts and injector hold down bolts. I agree 100% with uliman about tightening things up. It's been my experience you'll find a few loose injector bolts, and tightening things up will make the truck sound a whole lot better when you take it for a spin.
Rockers 20 ft - lbs
Injector bolts 120 in = lbs.
If the clip did come loose you can buy an updated harness (cheaper from IH), buy a shim for the connector (cheaper from IH), or grind the edge off a quarter (25 cents per side) to make sure this doesn't happen again.
Now I'll see if I can find an electrician to answer your ohm question.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
Ok, F350-6....I changed the oil when I got home....took a test drive no diff.....still runs rough at idle, shakes like I'm driving on wash board at 1500rpms, and has the SES light set....
i ran through your test, and either I did it wrong or I have bad stuff going on....I disconected the harness going to the valve covers, and tested the pins on the valve covers (not the harness end...)....I have Drivers side, from rear to front, .007, .005, .005, .003 ohms, and pass side rear to front .017, .012, .003, .004 ohms......
So did I screw somthing up?.......
Thanks for any replies...
i ran through your test, and either I did it wrong or I have bad stuff going on....I disconected the harness going to the valve covers, and tested the pins on the valve covers (not the harness end...)....I have Drivers side, from rear to front, .007, .005, .005, .003 ohms, and pass side rear to front .017, .012, .003, .004 ohms......
So did I screw somthing up?.......
Thanks for any replies...