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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Dented oil pan

just completed my header install 74F100 390, went pretty good but had to jack the motor up for the passenger side. Used a block of wood but found out i had dented it a little(really not much at all) when i cranked it up there was a loud knocking sound. got back under the truck and seen the problem
Is there any way to pull the dent without pulling the oil pan?and did it hurt anything for the short time it was running
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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Ouch! It for sure didn't feel good.

If you are sure the knock was internal, oil starvation is likely.

I'm not going down the gloom and doom path without more info. Did you happen to notice the oil pressure gauge? How many minutes, or even seconds was it running?

You might have dodged a bullet, but the only way to know is to start looking for blood. LOL Pull the dizzy and pre-lube the engine. It's an easy way to check for oil pressure without spinning the crank. I would be dropping the pan if oil starvation was a real possibility.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:14 PM
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oil starvation isnt the problem it was running like a top when i started the header install and jacked the motor up yes i even used a block of wood but it still creased it some. i figure the crank must be tapping on the pan.wasnt even running 1 minute the crease in the pan is at the back near flywheel.. somebody out there must have done this before
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 07:47 AM
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Is it knocking, or does it sound like the crank is hitting the pan ?

Where did you crease it? In the sump, or up on the flat part above the sump?

If it's in the bottom of the sump, you pushed the pan against the oil pickup.

If it's the flat upper portion of the pan, away from the sump, the crank is hitting the pan.

But no, I know of no way to pull the dent without taking the pan off.

Unless you can get a slide hammer in there, and then weld the hole shut (or put a screw in it - which might hit the crank again).
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FoothillFord
oil starvation isnt the problem it was running like a top when i started the header install and jacked the motor up yes i even used a block of wood but it still creased it some. i figure the crank must be tapping on the pan.wasnt even running 1 minute the crease in the pan is at the back near flywheel.. somebody out there must have done this before
The only place I can imagine using a block to lift the engine is under the sump(up front)on mine. I'm guessing you jacked it up then placed a block on the crossmember? let the engine down on it ? Suggestion, use a 4x4 across the fenders with a chain to (secure)suspend the engine. Towels on the fenders if you have one of those pretty trucks. Leaving the jack in place for assurance.
As to a dent at the rear of the pan, probably just have to live with it till you need a new gasket
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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Talking Pan Dent

You can repair a dented pan by welding a nut to the pan and scewing a bolt in and using this for a pulling anchor. The shallow part of a FE pan is very close to the crank , you should never jack the engine there.

Have A Good Day -----Hotwrench
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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yes the crease is in the shallow part, thought about lowering the pan some and using extra gaskets?I am concerned about the damage if any when the crank was tapping the pan?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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Talking Pan Dent

If you didn't run the engine very long you shouldn't have a problem. If you are going to install an extra gasket you may as well pound out the crease in your oil pan. Then you won't need the extra gasket.

Have A Good Day----Hotwrench
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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I'd think the crank is more than likely fine. I think Hotwrench has the best idea short of removing the pan. While most oilpans can hold the weight of the engine while sitting on the ground.... not many oilpans can hold the weight of the truck. I'd be concerned more with the pan possibly being hairline cracked besides being dented. Hopefully not the case but I'd keep a close eye on it for weeping. But if it's not cracked the welded nut and slide hammer just might do the trick!
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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Thanks for all the help, i will rent a slide hammer and try it with the nut.It finally stop raining so i went out with a straight edge and measured the crease 1/4" must only be a 1/8 clearance between crank and pan. cant wait to get her out with the headers installed(never will understand the stock manifold design)
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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Hey, any chance you can use one of those body-puller suction cup thingies on it and pull the dent out? Or is it too much of a crease for that?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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Talking Pan Dent

If you don't want to rent a slide hammer just use a large link chain and bolt it to the pan then you can use a pry bar against the crossmember or axle and pry down-- thus pulling the dent. Years ago we installed a 390 in a pickup didn't know about the dented pan - this is how we fixed it.

Just Some Thoughts----Hotwrench
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by krewat
Hey, any chance you can use one of those body-puller suction cup thingies on it and pull the dent out? Or is it too much of a crease for that?
If that won't work, you might try the next size up, the "plumbers friend."
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 08:46 AM
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Good luck with that!

The last ime I tried to weld an oil pan while it was still on the vehicle, it made me cry. Then I had to do the removal twice because the replacement was free if I dropped it myself. That chore wasn't quite as easy, it wasn't an old Ford truck.

If you decide to drop the pan, here is some food for thought:






Note: I J-B'd the thing on the pan. So far, so good.

Pictures would be awesome!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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Mike that's pretty slick. Nice job on that bud!
 
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