03 Explorer AC saga
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
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03 Explorer AC saga
This past spring my AC was not cooling. Dealer evacuated and recharged with dye included. No leaks detected overnight, worked fine most of the summer. Note: they never said whether it was low or not just that they evacuated and recharged. Using a cheapo gauge, I had determined it was not low on refrigerant before taking it in.
Anyway, despite the non explanation, it did work, and I left well enough alone.
Now, it really doesnt cool much at all, it slowly deteriorated over a month or 2 probably. Oddly, the right 2 vents blow much cooler than the left 2 vents.
Now again, my cheapo gauge shows normal charge.
Any ideas?
If I borrowed a light, would I be able to see they dye if it had leaked out since the Spring?
Anyway, despite the non explanation, it did work, and I left well enough alone.
Now, it really doesnt cool much at all, it slowly deteriorated over a month or 2 probably. Oddly, the right 2 vents blow much cooler than the left 2 vents.
Now again, my cheapo gauge shows normal charge.
Any ideas?
If I borrowed a light, would I be able to see they dye if it had leaked out since the Spring?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
Are you sure you are using your "cheapo" gauge properly"? The engine needs to be running and the AC turned on.
The gauge is mostly worthless unless you have a way to read the High side pressure too. They are also horribly inaccurate for reading actual pressure.
If you have access to a UV light (the yellow glasses help a lot too) you should be able to see the leak. One very common suspect is the compressor shaft seal. You may have to remove the clutch plate to see the dye.
The gauge is mostly worthless unless you have a way to read the High side pressure too. They are also horribly inaccurate for reading actual pressure.
If you have access to a UV light (the yellow glasses help a lot too) you should be able to see the leak. One very common suspect is the compressor shaft seal. You may have to remove the clutch plate to see the dye.
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Posting Guru
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I used the gauge as indicated, engine and AC running. I have heard that they are not a substitute for a professional evaluation but it reads my Ranger well enough. It has a known slow leak and when its low and not cooling, it reads low. So I have modest faith in the reading anyway.
I have a UV light I can borrow so I'll give that a try.
Any chance a problem other than lack of refrigerant could cause these symptoms?
I have a UV light I can borrow so I'll give that a try.
Any chance a problem other than lack of refrigerant could cause these symptoms?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
Without BOTH pressure readings, it's a crap-shoot.
Might be a low charge, could also be a restriction in the system, restricted or insufficient condenser air flow, etc.
Try to get a real manifold gauge on it....
Steve
Might be a low charge, could also be a restriction in the system, restricted or insufficient condenser air flow, etc.
Try to get a real manifold gauge on it....
Steve
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Lawton, Oklahoma
You should have returned to the dealer for a followup dye test. Most dealers give several months to a year on a diagnostic test. Typically they will advise you to return after a couple months to retest with dye light to see if they can determine where the leak is. Sometimes the leak is very small and takes some usage to get the dye flowing out with the leaking oil in the system. Ive seen systems that sit idle for months and show zero dye so it is best to get the re-exam when you notice a drop in performance within a few days, weeks, or months. A compressor shaft seal is common on Fords, as well as compressor shelling and or accumulator dessicant bag failure. There are many possible failure causes however so the professional analysis is best sought for accurate and warranted repairs.
