When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1972 and I am beginging to restore. The previous owner(s) decided to try different mirrors and both doors now have multiple holes all over the place from all the different mirrors over the years.
Question is what is the best way to patch them? I have a Lincoln 100hd welder and was thinking about starting with that for filling in the holes, then smoothing them out and using bondo for the final smoothness.
You could you a lap weld with backing type of deal. Put a piece of metal on the inside of the door and tack weld a few places around the hole. Grind smooth, and add fibreglass kitty-hair filler and finish with polyester filler. Oh, and if you want to go pro and make this repair last a long time, spray the backing metal with a weld-thru primer (I use 3M) and spray the inside of the door with some wax-oil or rubberized undercoating. Check if the holes have threaded inserts in them first and take them out first.
If you can reach the backside, backup the hole with a piece of copper. Weld won't stick to copper, acts as heat sink, prevents blowthru. You can fill them right up.
Came across this article in CarCraft magazine; after reading it not sure it's all that helpful, may provide some idea's.
Not an authority, for larger holes have seen where they use a metal punch to press out appropriate size plug, slightly smaller than the repair, taking into consideration the repair hole may need to be drilled out slightly, tac the plug in place and then weld in the plug. If recall a tig was used and distortion would not be an issue.
Anyhow, had an urge to chime in, appears other members have provided good ideas.
I've used dovetailed plugs before. You can solder them in with acid core solder and a propane torch. I've used these on big flat areas before, like old antenna holes on the cab roof. It takes less heat so there's less chance of warping. Then just grind of smooth.
If you can reach the backside, backup the hole with a piece of copper. Weld won't stick to copper, acts as heat sink, prevents blowthru. You can fill them right up.
I did this method for filling 29 trim holes on the new cab on my '70. The donor cab had cab lights running across the top and other trim pieces that I did not want. Be careful to take your time and not warp the metal around it. Be prepared to spend a lot of time grinding the filled welds down to be flush with the body panel.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.