Grinding noise
This is not true, These are positive engagement hubs. once engaged, the only thing that spins in the IWE hub is the bearings, The hub ring positivlely engages the outer hub via the spring pressure in the IWE hub. You can cap these off and run normally in 2H, But you will suffer a 2-3 mpg loss because of the giant increase in rotating mass of the half-shafts, the front Diff and the front driveshaft. If you let them grind long enough, you will have to replace the wheel hub assembly and the IWE actuator. ~$210 for the the wheel hub assembly (each side) and another 80 for the IWE actuator( each side).
I actually have one bad IWE actuator, but it failed to the point that it is always engaged. The other side is OK. Verified the problem with a vaccuum pump / gauge. The Factory workshop manuals for these truck are very good. (as expected). Cool part is , according to the manual, only 9 steps to replace the IWE actuator, (after gettting the truck up on stands)
So I plugged the vaccuum line to the drivers side IWE acutuator so as to not have a vaccuum leak on the other side, It did grind for awhile, but operation was verified ok with the vaccuum gage. My problems started with a bad IWE solenoid, which I have replaced with the redesigned rain cover.
My MPG's are down 1.5 to 2, because I'm spinning the spider gears and two half shafts. I'm assumming that the opposite halfshaft is spinning backwords, instead of spinning the driveshaft.
4wd works fine, no clunks or weird noises. and it will engage at speed.
No steering problems either. in 2H, turns normally, no binding.
When I find time, I'll get the deed done, but for now, i'm confident i'm not doing anymore damage. heck, they're only free wheeling.
You have to get the parts guy at you stealership to find the TSB on the IWE solenoids. In the TSB is a new part number for the revised solenoid w/ shield.
It is actually cheaper to get the solenoid that way, ~$27 bucks
I can not engage or release the hubs at increased speeds. If I'm stopped or barely moving it is fine. The transfer case is operating OK, but I get the grinding noise if I'm going at any rate of speed. Going back to 2WD at speed the tranfer case goes into 2WD, but it feels like something it is still engaged. I was going to compare the tire diameters, any other ideas?
also, sit in you driveway and excercise the whole 4x4 system sitting still. 4h to 2h. back and forth for a couple minutes.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I can not engage or release the hubs at increased speeds. If I'm stopped or barely moving it is fine. The transfer case is operating OK, but I get the grinding noise if I'm going at any rate of speed. Going back to 2WD at speed the tranfer case goes into 2WD, but it feels like something it is still engaged. I was going to compare the tire diameters, any other ideas?
What year is your truck? If you have a 2004-2006, check the drivers side IWE actuator with a vacuum pump. should hold vaccum. pump to 20in of vac, and see if it holds. max loss should be 1in of vacuum a minute per ford workshop manual
If not holding any vacuum, the IWE is always engaged and you need to replace it.
I have yet to pick it up so we will have to wait to see if they actually fixed the problem. They did say they test drove it after the fix and it did not make the noise.
Wish me luck...
So I have a question (because I think this is happening to my 07 Screw) If I am in Park, in 2wd, should I be able to turn the half shafts and the front drive line? I had about a 100 mile commute this morning and of course this went down in the first 5 miles, Just after being pulled over by CHP (the good news is he was SUPER COOL and let me go). So I pulled over and the grinding stopped, but when I slid underneath to shake stuff and check for missing parts the half shafts and axle wouldn't spin. Truck was in Park, but also in 2wd and in the past I know my old 4wd's you could spin all of this with the truck in gear (never had a 4x4 that was an Auto before).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...hp?tsb=06-8-15



