Taking all things into consideration...

even if the truck was in 4wd per the esof. front diff locked in. everything working as advertised - that wouldn't cause the truck to lock down. Unless, of course it's in LOW 4wd - in which case, we'd see a TC implosion.

I can't see where the front diff locking in causing the truck to lock down. ESOF is just that, shifts into 4wd on the fly.

Now, if there's an issue in the front end causing the front to lock, that should be duplicated on command. (IE: locking the front and shifting the TC to 4wd.) We're talking major mechanical parts here. Not soft parts in the trans.

If a hard part fails, there's generaly massive failure ending in a major repair. Even if it's the trans. that fails.

I'm finding it hard to grasp that the truck has been in a lock down state and there's not a blaringly obvious problem. He's said the truck has locked completely down enough to "spin" the truck out. That's not a small failure in any case.

I'd not take anything short of a diagnosis that finds the problem as an answer. It don't take long to pull inspection covers, backing plates and axles to inspect the drive train, save the trans. Even with the trans, it's only a matter of dropping the pan to find it full of metal. Again, we're talking HARD PARTS, not soft parts like clutches or the like.

Cheers.

 

[quote=5.4L to Freedom;6608584]So after 3 test drives they got it to replicate once rendering the truck immobilized in the middle of an intersection... then after sitting a second it drove back to the dealership fine and inspection resulted again in everything's ok. However the service manager did say it's unsafe to drive and won't release it,


Now I have to wonder just how thorough an inspection they are doing WHEN THEY KNOW there's something wrong. At least with the service mgr holding the vehicle it is now documented that there is a problem.

 

Trying to charge someone $30 for a quart of gear oil is retarded. At least talk to the guy, many people here say they can get gear oil at a dealer for about $20 a quart.

Asked for the old brake parts at a dealership already, they acted like I asked them for a million $$$. Sorry I'm just tired of dealer BS, too many bad experiences guess I'm a little sour.

 

Definatley have a look inside the pumpkins. 75w-90 is cheaper than 75w-140 FWIW.

 

I do understand your frusteration. Some things are just so retardly over priced its silly. However FORD (of GM or whatever) sets the price of the parts, not the independent dealer itself. And one thing that most people dont understand is the ABSOLUTE massive overhead that a dealer has. But I do agree there is alot of dealers out there that give us good dealers a bad rep and that is unfortunate. If a guy comes in and is straight up and calm and in a predicament Ill do whatever I can to get that customer fixed up and not rip them off. There are way too many tech's out there that dont really care, and will throw parts at it until they get lucky and one fixes it. There is a huge difference between a GOOD tech and a Parts Replacer. Here latley it seems that there are alot of "parts replacers" making there way into the dealers.
Our dealer has a "fix it right the first time" type of thing. If your "comebacks" reach 5% your butt is in hot water. I'll spend more time diagnosing a vehicle just to make certain that the diagnosis is accurate.

 

You can get a no-name 75-140 at wally world for like $9 a quart. Or if absolute push come to shove (I dont recomend this but tuff times call for tuff measures) just put some $4 a quart 80-90 in it until you get your life settled back down then swap it out for the correct fluid.

 

Wow I didn't think you could push the axles out. The front end isn't turning in 2wd. The hubs can't lock themselves in..I wonder if they even know how the 4wd system works? If its in the front it would have to be wheel bearing..What do you think guy's.


Dick

 

So we found the culprit and man I do not know what to think of this! So the mechanics only had it lock up once, and could not replicate it again. As it turns out, the driveline is beautiful and has no problems.

Now my front hubs are locked in for some reason, we're looking into that issue, but when my emergency brake failed and became mangled between the axle and rotor, it locked the rear wheels, and somehow locked up the front wheels.

I'll be back with more info later, truck should be done this after noon and somebody just made a mess at work so I get to go play cleanup

 

My dad has ESOF and right now his hubs are seized up in the auto position. Seems like water and the elements corroded them fast and won't allow the auto/locked part to be turned. Maybe your hubs got engaged somehow and seized fast.

 

He's got manual hubs...Doesn't he? Also the emer brake on my truck even if you jammed it on at 60 you might not know it. Works like crap.

 

A local dealer has a bad rep for force their techs to replace unnecessary parts and do some shady things to make $$$. Its a shame they do that to people and employs. I can understand where your coming from. I agree being a dik can be unproductive.

 

Your right, forgot he swapped to manuals. I'm interested to see whats up with the hubs, even though locking the hubs won't have any effect on the T-case if the t-case is in 2wd.

I agree e-brakes arn't great, mine holds pretty good though but I shure don't want to depend on it to stop the truck.

 

My e-brakes work pretty good, but it's not actually the brake itself, it's the brake hardware and everything that has been crushed down to the size of a jagged baseball and rolling around in there. Every now and then it looks like it was grabbing the quarter inch grooves it cut into the e-brake portion of the rotor and the axle causing an instant bind.

Hopefully I'll get yall a picture, its kinda amazing.

The warn locking hubs are just stuck in the locked position, a little bit of lube and they unlocked with the twist of the ****. Keep in mind i got these hubs off ebay (brand new) but the warn box they were in appears to be from the 60's or 70's.

And I'm really glad my problems weren't a result of...

YouTube - Ghettobillie Round Up SUPER DUTY BURNOUT

or

YouTube - Ghettobillie Round Up Truck Pulls

or

YouTube - Ghettobillie Round Up Truck Pulls Pt II

or

YouTube - Ghettobillie Round Up Truck Pulls Pt.III

 

Even if the hubs were froze if the truck isn't in 4wd the fronts wouldn't lock..never.

 

I take it your saying the E-brake shoe came apart in the rotor hat. Had this happen on an explorer. Made a weird clicking sound and it turned out the pad seperated. They weren't bound together very well. I don't see how the E-brake would effect the front driveline at all unless the hubs were locked and the transfer case was in 4wd.