3G alternator conversion question/advice? help Please
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3G alternator conversion question/advice? help Please
Hi, let me thank you guys for your help in advance. I have a 1983 F250, with a 351w.I want to do a 3G conversion, I found a place called: Pa Performance who will sell me everything I need. The guy on the phone suggested a 200amp alt (because of 12,000lb winch, 6Kc lights, and stereo) He said that I will have to change from a V pully setup to a serptine setup? Is this true? It doesn't seem right to me. What do you think? Also since I have never done this before could someone please list everything i'll need. I know I'll need a alt , (7inches from mounting ear to mounting ear), large 4 ga, cable to go from the alt to the pos(+) terminal on the battery, a in line fuse (around 175 amp), conect yellow wire from the charge cable on back of alt to yellow wire on the plug, connect the white/black wire from the stator plug to the white/black wire in the plug, connect the remaining green/red wire to a wire that is hot while key is in run.? Have I forgot anything? thanks again!!
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I got mine from RJM Injection Tech RJM Injection Tech High Power 3G Alternators
Although my 86 is v belt, they have a serpentine pulley you can get also
Although my 86 is v belt, they have a serpentine pulley you can get also
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How much are you paying for that 200 amp PA unit? You could get one off a 94-95 Mustang, although it's only 130 amp. You pretty much have everything nailed down. There will be a few extra wires going to the alt from your stock harness. They need to be re-routed. As for the pulley, you don't need serpentine, you just need an impact gun to swap pulleys
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From: Out of here
You WILL need a serpentine belt if you are going to use the 200 amp alternator.
The V belt will slip like a beotch......
Here is an excellent source for all your 3G questions:
3G Interchange Facts. If you're thinking 3G read here.
The V belt will slip like a beotch......
Here is an excellent source for all your 3G questions:
3G Interchange Facts. If you're thinking 3G read here.
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From: Virginia
I believe a single v-belt is good for around 10hp. If you notice, on large commercial lawnmowers with big decks, they will run one huge v-belt or smaller multiple v-belts. A small single v-belt does have a limit on what it will pull.
If you are going to run the stock Ford serpentine system, you will have to change waterpumps and fans, as they turn backwards compared to a v-belt setup.
If you are going to run the stock Ford serpentine system, you will have to change waterpumps and fans, as they turn backwards compared to a v-belt setup.
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Thanks for the help so far, but now i'm questioning the 7 inch ear to ear model, I think according to the link that uncle stosh gave (if I'm reading it correct) I'll need a alt that measures 8.25 ear spaceing? Any body know right off hand?... Also according to franklin2 I'll have to switch to the serptine system which means i'll have to change the water pump and fan. anybody know where or what i'll need to do this??? hope i'm not getting in over my head.... what if i ran a 130 amp alt? could i run the v belt setup then and be ok? again thanks for all the help. I better get back to reading that thread. EVER WONDER WHY THINGS CAN'T BE SIMPLE!! LOL
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From: St. Peter
If you are good with solder you can remove the stator, and change the windings from being connected in a Y configuration to a delta configuration, and get 1/3 more power. The only downfault is the alt has to be spinning faster to make its power.
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From: Virginia
You probably could get by with the v-belt on the 130 amp, especially if you have a good battery system. Have you ever considered keeping the alternator you have and just adding a 2nd deep cycle battery with an isolator? That way you could run the winch and the lights, even if the engine wasn't running, and it would not drain the starting battery.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
I did the 3G 200 amp upgrade on my 302 six months ago with the small case alternator. It runs perfectly fine on the v-belt. I ran a single 4 gauge wire with a 200 amp in-line fuse from the single post on the alternator to the positive battery terminal. I also reworked the two black-orange 10 gauge wires to a single 4 gauge and left that connected to the single output. All the other factory wiring stayed the same. It works like a charm, and have all the power in the world for the electric fan setup, the relay headlight setup, fog lights, off-road lights, and high-amp stereo running simultaneously.
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I have a red top optoma. I don't have a clue how to run a 2nd battery with an isolator. It sounds like it may be something to look into . Thanks. So you think with a red top optoma battery I might be better off running a 130amp alt with the v belt? Thanks
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Wow! ri-truck-guy, Sounds like it worked for you. When you say small case, Does that mean the 7inch ear to ear? Not sure which 2 black/orange 10ga wires you are referring to? or the single output? Where are they located? thanks
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
The output of 2G alternator I replaced was a plug in the side of the case with two black/orange wires that spliced into a single 10 gauge wire in the harness. It's a really bad design. The 3G alternator has a single output post on the back. You would use heavy ring terminals from your output wires attached to this single post. I didn't measure the ears, but they were 180 degrees apart and 7 inches sounds about right. I also have an Optima red top. I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
I posted some pics in my gallery. I tried as best I could to capture the wiring from the bottom...both the black wire in the wire loom and the red wire bolt to the output post on the back of the alternator case. You can also see the larger 4 gauge chasis ground wire I added. The bigger ground is a must-add if you up the amperage. The in-line 200 amp fuse is mounted on the battery tray. It is a seven inch case. Hope this helps.