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Is there a procedure somewhere that will tell me how to tell my coil packs?
Parked the truck more than 3 weeks ago with half a tank of gas. Started it up this morning to use it and its stumbling quite a bit to about 2k rpm. Filled the tank,dry gas, and injector cleaner. Changed fuel filter as well. Now I'm assuming maybe a coil pack or boots but I don't know how to test.
thanks
Almost forgot, its a 99 F350 V10
test is simple or simpler hehe depends 99's are stuborn with throwing a codes but if you got check engine light on good chance is it will tell you which cylinder is missfiring .
Or how i do it is I allow an engine to idle and while is running i disconect coill plugs one by one listen to it and if nothin changed u got the bad coil . Remember to replace spark plug with coil as in most cases this is what caused coil failure. If spark plug is red brownish on a bottom of a porcelain that mean water got in there and got cooked with engine heat alot of times causing microscopic crack and allowing a spark to jump on an outside creating alot of resistance causing coil to overheat and failure.
Be carefule while working on running engine keep ur finger away from fan and make sure you dont wear a Scarf This stuff gets hot and the longer it runs it gets hotter , Be careful what you touching!!!
my truck did this out of the blue one day, and drove me crazy, changed everything and nothing fixed it, didnt check the wires cause they were less than a year old, but that ended up being the problem. they were arcing in the boots where I couldnt see. if you find a dead cylinder, swap the packs and see if the miss moves to that cylinder, and if so thats your culprit.
Thanks, I'll start with unplugging the coil packs one by one. My service engine light isn't on, and my scanner is down at my shop. I may take a ride down to get it anyways.
Where is the crank sensor located?
With the angle this truck sat at for a few weeks and the couple of nasty storms we got water could have gotten in there.
Ok, I unplugged each one, one at a time and no differance in my idle at all.
Let me add also that the stumbling only takes place when in Drive or Reverse. The truck runs nice an smooth when its in park and just idling.
the crank sensor is on the front bottom right side of the motor under the a/c compressor. you can remove the 10 mm bolt without removing the compressor, but not the sensor. but it doesnt sound like your problem. some codes wont show up untill you drive the truck 20 miles or so.
just noticed its a v 10. the sensor might not be the same, and with 10 cylinders it would make a miss in one cylinder very unnoticeable. you may have to unplug one while you do the rest to help you hear the rest. unless you could tell a power drop when you unplugged one.
Got my scanner from the shop
4 codes
MAF low- PO102
3 Codes
Coil primary/secondary
B,F,and G
I assume that means cyl 2,6 and 7
How are the cyls numbered on the V10?
I'm going to start with cleaning the MAF sensor and see what that does.
a contaninated maf is likley the cause. The coil primary codes were set when you unplugged the coils. If the maf does not solve the issue proper fuel pressure needs to be confirmed.
After cleaning the MAF sensor, all the codes cleared.
Now I have the PO113- IAT high voltage code.
This might be dumb but where it this sensor and is it the same the sensor just behing the TB that the EGR is connected to?
After cleaning the MAF sensor, all the codes cleared.
Now I have the PO113- IAT high voltage code.
This might be dumb but where it this sensor and is it the same the sensor just behing the TB that the EGR is connected to?
I always thought that the Intake Air Temp sensor was integrated as part of the MAF. You might want to double check the wiring when you cleaned the MAF or you could have damanged the IAT.
My 99 has the IAT seperate from the MAF.
after the MAF just before the intake tube makes its bend towards the Throttle body.
On later trucks the IAT is, I think, inferred by the PCM thru the MAF. I don't think there is a seperate sensor as part of the MAF.
Someone else will have to confirm on the last thought.
Had a similar problem. Found out from ford it was the intake manifold leaking coolant into the cylinder. Ford told me they could fix it with "liquid metal" or replace the intake for 1000.00. Not a task I wanted to undertake, I chose to replace the intake, and it runs great now. Look for moisture along the top of the intake.