I have a 72 F100 with a 360 and am getting ready to buy a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and Holley 4160 carb. What all needs to come out as I replace it and is there anything else I should replace as I do this?

 

Remove the valve covers, pull the rocker assy's off, remove pushrods. Get your dizzy set to a spot so you can get it put back in easily(#1 firing? or something).

Get some help to get that old cast iron version off....it's HEAVY! (near 100#).

Buy a new piece of heater hose for the bypass going to waterpump. Only need a couple inches, but replace it while you have intake off. Unless you've replaced it in the past when/if the waterpump was done. Mock up new intake and measure for a new length, as it might be slightly different and you don't want it too short. When setting new intake on, have someone help slip that new hose onto waterpump as you then set intake down on to heads.

Might want to confirm end gaps(for cork seals) before bolting intake on. Place side gaskets on, then place intake on. See how well the cork end pieces slide in. Should just fit(without much crush). Glue them down before installing intake.

Carb linkage will be an issue, like mentioned. Not sure the aftermarket intake has the mounts for all the jerri-rigged crap Ford puts on these trucks. Most guys just put a straight rod from pedal rod to carb.

Just some thoughts off the top of my head.

 

Edlbrock says just used RTV sealer not the end gaskets. Used acetone to clean the areas for sealing. There's a steel (pin) that also needs to be removed in the front seal area. Install manifold into place drop in dissy just for good alignment when you start to torque it down. Also remember to put some flat-washer on the bolts then a small amount of RVT sealer under-side of each washer to insure no oil leaks. remember check that dissy is free move and not in a bind or hung up as this is all going together. Let RTV cure oner night before starting. well that's my 2cents
orich

 

The rocker arm assembly is like nothing I have messed with what do I need to know about installing/taking it out? Also where can I get a repair manual or shop manual for my 72 F100?

 

Rockers are pretty easy deal. Using 9/16" socket, loosen them evenly across all bolts. Once it's loose, pick up entire assy and set on bench(leave the bolts IN the stands as this will keep the stands in correct orientation). You can leave the oil drain pans in place if you like. You just need to get the pushrods out of holes so intake can come off. Wiggle the pushrods so that they dont pick up the lifters(suction sometimes holds them). Pushrods are NOT critical to placement, unless you want to keep track.

When putting back together the hard part is getting all the pushrods into the cups and holding all the rockers in place so they are right side up. Then tend to flip around on shafts. Work slowly, might have extra set of hands to help. Get all the bolts started, re-check all pushrods in cups and then slowly torque to 42 lb/ft. Go slowly, as if a pushrod gets outta place it will ding up the rocker cup. It's a pain, but once you get the hang of it, it's doable.


Like orich mentioned, using RTV on ends instead of gasket. It's a good think to check the gap, as if there is a huge gap, using the cork will help fill it. If it's a tight fit, then you'll see how much silicone to build up before installing intake. It's a call you make when putting it together.

 

I recommend keeping track of which hole the pushrods came from. These have wear patterns and there may be some a different length.

DO NOT USE THE CORK SEAL. If you do the manifold will not pull down and seal properly, and suck oil. On the RTV allow to skin 10-15 min before installing. I like to set the manifold and let it set over night, then torque down. Doing this will give a better seal on the ends since the rtv will have some rigidity.

 

fyi there is a proper tightening sequence. many people dont follow it and end up just fine, but you might as well do it since it can only do good for the truck. also if the bolts are dry and rusty i like to put some liquid wrench on them so they turn back in smoothly.


6 3
9 8
1 2
7 10
4 5

25 ft lbs

 

All good input above here. I forgot to add here's what, I do with keeping the push-rods ID'd. I used the old wooden spring clip on clothes pins that, I put a number on like L1-L8 for left bank and R1-8 on the upper end of each Push rod as your removing them so they don't get mixed up and go back in the wrong place. Also one by one clean them remove clothes pin and roll it on a very flat surface.This is a ez way to look for bend push-rods These push rods come different lenghts. If your motor as the old steel OEM head gaskets the shorter push rods were used. As time went on and the gaskets were replaced the longer p-rods were used to make up for the differents thickness in gaskets. So it's important to get the same length.. my 2cents
orich

 

ok i did the intake manifold on my 460 and i didnt even remove the valve covers...what about the 360 makes you need to remove the pushrods and stuff? and could i have messed something up when i did it? the truck still runs just fine....

 

FE push rods go through the intake 460 push rods do not.

 

And if you have a cherry picker use it to pull off the old intake. As stated earlier they are heavy. They will kill your back.

 

well that explains that

 

I have heard and read up on different ways to take out and install the distributor on FE's, but by experience what is the best?

 

the only problem i've ran into with the distributor is getting it back in. the oil pump drive never wants to line up. so use a flashlight and a nutdriver, (not a socket, it might fall) i mean those deals that are like a screwdriver but with a socket permanently fixed to the end. i forget what the size is but u can turn it counterclockwise a little bit and then the distributor will fall right into place. you dont want to try and jam it in, it should just slide in there. and then ofcourse you have to get your timing dialed back in. people say to use a magic marker and line it up before and after but that never works for me.

 

I used a 1/4" nut driver.