Replacing the VSS
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ohio
of course you should not disconnect the batt without reading the codes first.
sure it may cause driveability concerns until the system relearns but that has never been too much of a problem in my opinion.
the only reason i see for a 9v backup is if the stereo has a theft system on the stereo and you need to disconnect the battery for replacement or to clear codes.
i respect your opinion but i am going to keep doing things the way i have been for many years.
sure it may cause driveability concerns until the system relearns but that has never been too much of a problem in my opinion.
the only reason i see for a 9v backup is if the stereo has a theft system on the stereo and you need to disconnect the battery for replacement or to clear codes.
i respect your opinion but i am going to keep doing things the way i have been for many years.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Bill, it looks like we're mostly on the same page after all. 
It seems unlikely that disconnecting the battery can cause a no-start condition.
Agreed. Disconnecting the battery in this situation would have been a bad thing.
Originally Posted by subford
The he post back that there are no codes (for obvious reasons) as the engine will not start or is now running worse.
But do not forget what I was addressing in the first place in this thread was the poster above was trying to tell him to disconnect the battery for the VSS sensor and did not understand the systems at all. But I did not want to come out and tell him that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
It might be a supporter thing. I know that when uploading this avatar I had to shrink it down to 120 x 120. I have no idea what the max size is for a non-supporter.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 0
From: St. Peter
Yeah, the 9V batt trick works good when your working on a car (like honda) that will lock the stereo up, then the customer doesnt have the code card anymore, and you have to pull the radio to get the serial number.....you know how it goes.
As much as I believe you guys are right about leaving codes until the problem is fixed, I think there are alot of benifits to clearing them before you start working on a car (writing them down first). First off you can tell the frequency of the problem. Next lets say for whatever reason someone has the key on, and maybe disconnects the MAF to get the airbox off easier. Next thing you know your chasing a MAF low voltage code around in circles when there is no real problem.
As much as I believe you guys are right about leaving codes until the problem is fixed, I think there are alot of benifits to clearing them before you start working on a car (writing them down first). First off you can tell the frequency of the problem. Next lets say for whatever reason someone has the key on, and maybe disconnects the MAF to get the airbox off easier. Next thing you know your chasing a MAF low voltage code around in circles when there is no real problem.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 0
From: raymond alberta
ive always been told to read the codes then disconnect the neg. battery terminal fix the problem then reattach the battery run it for 15 mins. or whatever untill the EEC adjusts to the new sensor...thats what i was meaning back there so im not a dumb ****...i just didnt know it was a bad thing to do for the VSS works for everything else that i know of
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Those things can be a bear to replace. Mine was stuck in there really well and I ended up breaking it like you did. The bad part is that my sensor is in FRONT of the rear differential. It wouldn't do me any good to pull the rear cover off. I still couldn't get to it. I had to break the plastic housing and pull out the pieces very very carefully. Several hours of work for a simple $13 part!!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
sensor replaced successfully and the ABS light isn't coming on like it was before. Still have a prob with the speedo (this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...pedometer.html) which is how I got here in the first place.
The speedo prob has got to be the PSOM, will take a look this weekend.
Thanks to all
The speedo prob has got to be the PSOM, will take a look this weekend.
Thanks to all
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